Airfix help please!

[Concorde Speedbird]

Hello,

As well as an aeromodeller, I am also into my Airfix a bit! I have only really tried to make them look nice though in my last model, a 1/144 Concorde which I was very pleased with.

Now I got a 1/72 Vulcan set for my birthday (big!), and I need help! The construction part is pretty easy (although I have never used filler, mainly because I have never had any) but painting is a problem!

Concorde was easy (it's white!) but the Vulcan has camo. I only brush paint (don't have a place to do airbrushing) and I have never used primer.

So help please! What colours (it's XH558 that I am is building), should I use primer and thinner and if so, which one?

CS

[richard cohen]

CC

Depends what paint you are using. If Humbrol then i believe its 163 Dark Green and 164 Dark Sea Grey and 64 light grey for the underside. I dont use a primer as too many layers lose surface detail. I thoroughly wash all parts in slightly soapy warm water to remove any mould release agent and grease.

To check coverage i would suggest a trial by painting the inside of the fuselage where it wont be seen ( rear section) to check coverage. Whether acrylic or enamel, if it needs to be thinned add one drop of water to acrylic or one drop of humbrol thinners at a time, mix well and retry till happy. Only then move onto visable airframe parts.

Best of luck

Rich

[Concorde Speedbird]

I would use Humbrol paints, probably Enamel.. Thanks for that, those colours look correct although I won't need the light grey since XH558 has camo all over. Should I get Matt, Satin or Gloss? XH558 looks shiny in some pictures, but matt in others.

You say 'if it needs to be thinned', in what cases does it need to be thinned? Many thanks,

CS

[richard cohen]

CC

i would go with satin. if you change your mind you could always add a coat of gloss varnish over it, but satin should look fine.

With regard to thinning, if the paint seems too thick (certain colours do seem to vary in consistancy) then add a drop at a time. I thin it if surface detail disappears or brushmarks are visable. you can always add another thin coat but you can't take it away if its too thick.

I tend to use acrylic as its water based which means mistakes can be removed with a damp cotton bud, brushes are easy to clean and drying can be sped up with a luke warm hairdryer !

i think most of mine look ok...

[Concorde Speedbird]

That's a lovely fleet there! They are very good.

I'll go for Satin then, I need to get those paints soon. Started construction, with wing tops and bottoms joined, tail cone halves joined and the fin halves joined

Any advice on fillers and which one to get? I think this one will need some. And also- sanding. Is wet and dry paper the best to use (and what grade?)

Thanks for all the help! Sorry for so many questions being fired your way!

CS

[richard cohen]

i'll be honest, i have never used filler. i tend to research kits to get good crisp mouldings. Have a chat at the model shop for advice on that one.

for sanding i would say wet and dry. the finer the better. The bigger the number (printed on the rear) the finer the grade ie 2400 is really fine and 80 is really coarse.

to keep costs down, see if you can blag a few sheets from your local car bodyshop ( i work in the motor trade so thats where mine comes from - it doesnt even have to be brand new. most sheets tossed out have still got loads of life left in them and just need rinsing in clean water to get the debris out of them)

just go steady on seams to avoid erasing detail or adding divots

rich

[Matt Holmes]

Hi CS,

I would suggest you also look at some of the plastic kit modelling forums.

Some that i use are:

http://www.cybermodeler.com/tips.shtml

http://www.britmodeller.com

http://www.scalemodelguide.com

Hope this helps.

Good luck with the build,

Matt

Edited By Matt Holmes on 20/10/2012 21:49:12

[bouncebounce crunch]

CS try the (Finescale modeler) website it is like the RCM&E website but all about plastic models, aircraft, cars, trucks, etc; and plenty of hints and tips too.

Edited By bouncebouncecrunch on 20/10/2012 22:26:04

[Daithi O Buitigh]

A couple of old tricks from way back. To get filler, file some of the sprue and collect the dust (wear a mask of course). Mix that with a drop or two of polystyrene cement and there you have a cheap filler.

(for the build'n'fly people - balsa dust mixed with a drop of dope is a nice gap filler too for small gaps )

Paint - I always went for matt and if I needed a semi-gloss or satin finish - I used a drop of wax polish (car polish works) after it was all dried out

[MikeS]

In my youth I used to build airfix/revell kits. To get a weathered look I used to mix up some black & gun metal grey with some thinners.

Then I would give the model a wash so the mix would run and sit in the panel lines etc. Once dry I would spray a thin base coat followed by another wash. Then I would add matt silver on to the props, leading edge, gear doors etc. Any place wear & tear would take place.

Depending on the look and scheme I then would spray the final colours. Once dry I would rub the paint down a little to age the paint.

Chip away any paint to show the dull silver. Apply the decals and spray with matt sealant.

For cockpit glass if you dip it into Johnsons Kleer before glueing it stops to plastic turning white. You can of course use wood glue to stick the clear glass on as it does not effect the plastic

Mike