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Bae Hawk by D. Crawford


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Finally managed to glued and accupunture the top sheet to the fuselage. I have to work on the engine mount next. The original plans used a SLEC mount, I might use a Great Planes mount. The nose steering is in the mount. Only problem is where to place the steering arm. It doesn't show on the plans and the engine compartment are is quite small.

Jim

Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 22/02/2017 10:23:29

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So I got curious, the plans didn't show the canopy shape, but I figured it was an arc. The question is how far do I have to carve into the triangular section? So I drew it up and pinned it to the model.

So far without the vertical fin the overall weight is 979 grams (2.20 lbs). Quite pleased.

Jim

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Edited By Katy Purvis on 21/02/2017 13:53:52

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Jim,

That's coming along well. Regarding photo rotation in your albums, I believe you have to rotate them before uploading, unless a mod can suggest a method or site improvement for doing this!

Will the tailplane have any additional support to spread the contact load, or does it just glue onto the fuselage sides? I've had a number of models where this has been a weak point, with the tailplane coming loose after a few knocks, either from heavy landings or in transit.

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The photo in the album in in the correct orientation. So I can't figure what happened. I just have to make sure my photos are in the best orientation for this forum.

The plans don't show any additional support for the stabilizer. I thought some might be required. Presently I'm contemplating the power source for this model. A nitro engine with a muffler carves out so much of the side of the cowl area. I have been wondering about electric.

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided to stay with the Great Planes mount. The bolt pattern is the same vertically or horizontally. Finally got the fire wall in position. I only had to cut it three times. 1st time - didn't pilot drill for the bolt holes - some one hole was out of alignment. 2nd time - holes for fuel tubing too close to the mounting holes. 3rd Time just right.

How close should the engine be to the back of the mount?

Yes, the mount will come pretty close to the wall.

I'm thinking of splitting the mount like Mike did on his electric Atlas.

Jim

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Edited By Katy Purvis on 21/02/2017 13:54:52

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Thanks Keith,

Not stopping the build, but I have to help Brent with his school science assigment. We have to build a flying model out of house hold items. Ok think she mentioned common household items. In our house that includes balsa and super-phatic. If hobbyking had a warehouse in Canada, this would have been radio controlled indoor flight.

It was suggested that I use a 1/4" or 3/8" nose ring backer to glue the sides too rather than use the 3/4" triangular sections. I've got the 3/8" balsa nose ring backer in the Hawk and pulled the sides together. Couldn't resist planing the one side down just a bit. I had the 1/8" plywood ring in as a spacer and will glue in the 1/16" ring after.

Jim

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Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 22/02/2017 10:25:05

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Boy how a month goes by quickly. Easter than springbreak for the kids. Was busy at work, it'll slow down for a while. I have every Friday off until July. Mixed blessings.

I've been going back and forth on how to control the elevator and rudder. The plans show an internal U connection for the elevator. I may end up just doing that, but add an access panel to the connectors or make a hole in the back for the fake jet nozzle as per plans. It just shows a control linkage going to the rudder. I thought of either push-pull wire setup of control rod in a housing or just a old fashioned pushrod arrangement.

I've installed the servos close as per plans. Run the control cables to the throttle and steering control. Treated the tank and engine compartments with balsarite for fuel proofing. Sanded the stabalizer, glued and fibreglassed the center section. Covered the engine and fuel compartmet with the bottom sheeting, Planed and sanded it into the plywood nose ring.

Dry fit the stabalizer. The measurements check out and my CAD work for fit up looks good too. Have to work on filing income taxes and the rudder this week.

I wanted this complete for the Winnipeg Radio Control Club "Show and Tell" last weekend but that didn't happen. Good show though.

Jim

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Edited By Katy Purvis on 21/02/2017 13:59:56

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  • 3 weeks later...

Some work done in the last while. Rudder and fin were cut and sanded. The wing mounts and bolts were installed this weekend. Started with 6-32 bolts with blind nuts. Ended up drilling for 1/4 bolts into the blocks and using dubro plastic bolts.

My biggest slowdown is deciding how to hook up the control surfaces. The plans called for an internal U-pushrod for the elevator halves and a cable for the rudder control (as shown on the plans). I've been contemplating external horns for each elevator and the rudder.

And I think I cleaned up my canopy template.

Jim

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
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Had some time off. Decided to continue work on the model. It wouldn't fly this year, but it should be ready for covering over the fall.

I placed the balsa on the bottom of the tail section cross ways for strength. But I forgot about the 5/8" - 3/4" radius which has to shaped at the edge. Razor won't work. Sanding block is too much dust. I can reduce the corner quickly with my Vaughan Bearsaw (japanese saw) which was in my tool box.

Jim

A somewhat steady hand is required. But with the fine teeth and a slow speed you can cut the balsa off in one pass.

Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 22/02/2017 10:31:06

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Worked on the top section of the model again today. Planed the canopy and most of the rear deck area on the upper body. Final sanding will get it as round as possible. The model with 3 servos {minus covering, fuel tank, engine, gear and wheels) is 3lbs.

Jim

Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 22/02/2017 10:35:06

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Back to work on the model. Started to cut out the side fuselage wall to install the engine. First time for an enclosed engine for me. Not sure how much I should carve out to access the throttle lever on the engine. I have to install the mount and mark the holes for drilling.

The 3/8" nose ring I added to the front of the fuselage worked good. I had to carve about 1/8" into it for the OS 46 AXII i'm going to install. Sold the Supertigre during the summer. The OS isn't quite a remote needle valve but it better than the super tiger, and I can get parts for it.

Jim

 

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Edited By Jim Purcha on 06/11/2016 22:34:17

Edited By Katy Purvis on 21/02/2017 14:01:35

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  • 4 weeks later...

The final decision was to go with my original plan, cut out the cowl for the steering (Fit - Form - Function). Reglued the section back behind the firewall. Once it's painted (inside) and covered it wouldn't be noticed at 400 ft. Now to finish off the bottom of the wing, ailerons, than I can cover this model. Ultrakote.

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Edited By Katy Purvis on 21/02/2017 14:02:18

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  • 2 weeks later...

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