The tucano project - jumping in at the deep end

[Mike Hardy]

Nothing like jumping in!! just ordered my 'complete pack' I have read that the wings are solid balsa. Just how do you begin the profiling process? I notice that the 'pros' mark out the balsa with cross hatch lines does this indicate material to be removed? Is there notes or a tutorial on this process? Have looked on this forum but cannot find anything.

Have asked this question here as I am too embarrassed to ask the Tucano build forum!!

Mike.

[David Gilder]

Mike,

I've never made wings like this myself but pleae dont be embarrassed abaout asking what might seem like a daft question.If your asking it, then chances are there are others who need to know but havnt asked.

They say in aeromodling, the only daft question is the one you dont ask!

[Tim C]

Just check out Nigels Build page **LINK**.

It really is not difficult and easy to do, the plans show the profile you need to acheive.

A razor plane is a real help, together with suitable sanding block, try sticking sandpaper on a piece of wood with doublesided tape to get a real flat surface.

30 mins profiling each wing is all it takes

Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 18/12/2012 18:33:53

Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 18/12/2012 18:34:59

[Mike Hardy]

Thanks David and Tim, The cross hatch lines shown what do they signify?.

Mike

[Tim C]

The Cross hatch shows the area where material is removed

[fly boy3]

Hi Mike, many years ago a firm brought out plans for small model 25s that required the profiling of the wings from a solid plank of balsa. Instructions were shape to a profile.Conseqently all wings were differant, but all flew very well indeed. So there is not a lot to worry about believe me it works. Cheers.  PS you will end up with a shed full of balsa shavings.

Edited By fly boy3 on 18/12/2012 20:38:15

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 18/12/2012 22:05:22

[Delta Foxtrot]

Mike,

In order to try and get the wings as consistent as possible after razor planing I made up a large sanding pad from a ply base with a solid handle. The sanding pad is wide enough to span from the ruler, which is used as a guide for one edge of the pad and also covers the width of the area to be sanded .

The leading / trailing edges of the wing are set so that when the correct amount of material is removed the leading / trailing edges are approximately the correct thicknesses. I used vernier calipers to measure these periodically along the span as a check. When setting up the wing for sanding the wing taper needs to be considered, but I got good results by just sanding parallel to the sanding guidelines

I found that this gave me reasonably consistent results and is better than just sanding by eye.

• 

David

[Delta Foxtrot]

Mike,

Another aspect of the Tucano wing build is getting the wing roots to meet flush and with the correct dihedral angle. The attached photo shows my jig for doing this. I made a cardboard template of the wing and used this to mark a line from the edge of the table which coincides with the leading edge. I then clamped the wood along this line and placed the wing leading edge up agianst this. The tips are then raised using a block of wood of the desired height and the wing roots are lightly sanded using a block run square to the edge of the table.

The whole arrangement is flipped around for the other wing.

David

[Robin Kearney]

Mike, as Tim suggests above a razor plane like this one is worth its weight in gold for jobs like shaping the wings and the top block on the Tucano. And if you find yourself changing sandpaper on a DIY block too often, a Perma-Grit block such as this is a very worthwhile investment. I put off buying one for years, but now I have one it is never out of reach!

r.

[Mike Hardy]

Thanks David and Robin for Sharing your ideas on the Tucano wing profiling I and many others on here owe you both a special thanks for the information and practises involved.

I have the necessary tools you both allude to but lack the experience you 'master builders' have Thanks again for sharing and hope (moderators please note) the information/practise can form the basis of a tutorial for the Tucano project. We can only learn by your experiences.

Mike.

[Mark R]

Hi Mike, hope build is going well..not sure if you have checked the canopy but mine I think is the wrong one. It's 12 & 1/4 inches long and the one on the plan is about 10 & 1/4 inches in length or so....do we need to hack the one from the kit to pieces to get it to right size? Or is yours right size?

Mark

[Tim C]

No that is the correct size, its oversize and trimmed to fit. Build out the balsa base fit the canopy over the frame, mark and trim. I have no doubt someone wioll be along with a pictorial how to soon enough

[Mark R]

Hi Tim, cheers for the info....

Mark

[Mike Hardy]

Hi Mark. Have not checked yet - how many parcels did you get? I have one large pack the CNC parts I think and a separate consignment from SariK Vacforms - the canopy. Just about to order the pilots and pilot seat sets from Vortex Vacforms. Plan to start after Christmas. Would you believe still tied up with the Spit from WestWings - looked a quick build but not!! received my David combi plane today. My jounior 60 electric build about half way. Busy busy  My canopy is 12 3/8 inches long and 3 inches wide at the widest point.

Mike

Edited By Mike Hardy on 20/12/2012 20:34:57

[Mark R]

Hi Mike, i got 4 in the end. 1 x canopy, 1 x cnc pack, 1 x wood pack and then another one for missing/lousy cnc cutting replacement parts.

Bit of a shame having to hack the canopy to get it to fit, looks well made and i am pants when it comes to cutting canopies....plz plz someone tell me the best way to do it )

Mark