Janos Deak Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 At laaaast, I got the servos. Only had time to test them, they are brilliant, and fit the holes exactly. Well, a bit too exactly . Can't wiggle the servo through the hole thanks to the cable. I need to be smart with the wire... possibly I unscrew the servo housing and insert the tail servos like that. We'll see... I want it clean and neat. In the meantime, I was working on the decoration. I'll post the next pictures with the servos installed. Edited By Janos Deak on 23/04/2015 22:48:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 A small round file just to take out a small recess should let the wire through without the need of dismantling the servo. Taking a small servo to bits can get frustrating and at the risk of loosing bits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 You can usually wriggle the servos into the hole by inserting at an angle the wire side first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 cymaz: I generally repair them myself but not since I use metal gear ones... because there is no need for that any more metal gears are like an insurance. Dave: after trying for 2 more minutes, I could push them through without damaging the wire / wood... The 3014 has a big rubber protector at the wire exit... much bigger than other ones I am used to and fits very tightly in the pre-cut hole. But now all is good - I have the weekend to finish the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 Hi, been knocked out by some virus for a few days... now catching up with my stuff so not much time spent on building. Well... apart from installing the 4 control surface servos I have used the stock pushrods, with the method secribed in the manual, except I have replaced the nylon quick-links to metal ones. I have secured the servos with machine screws and nuts, with loctite, instead of the wooden screws. I planned to use some laser-cut plastic sheets for the 2 sides on the control surfaces around the servo holes (I made them too in advance), to prevent the wood from metal screw damage, but there was no need... the plywood is very strong around the servos, they will hold just fine. Also the servos were supplied with rubber+metal bushes, so there's not much to improve there Mambo Servo No. 5. will follow later Oh, and some decoration too has been done. Pictures will come soon... (as soon as I find out how to attach them) Cheers Edited By Janos Deak on 28/04/2015 21:29:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 I had to drill the servo horns to match the push rod diameter. I have used the cutoff part of the rod itself as a drill bit so I got a zero tolerance hole and this works great, I have no-play control surfaces For this I also needed good quality servos - the 3104s were a great choice, thanks for the tip!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 I have structurally completed the build. The bird ended up with 1999g total weight = 4,4lbs, the 450W motor (with 3S) should therefore give 100W+ /lb. I have installed the nose servo and cleaned up the wires in the back too With the 3S/2800mAh the CoG is spot on at the 85mm mark on the wing. I'll post pictures soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 I am setting up the control throws now. The manual proposes symeetrical throws on the ailerons. It is a bit strange... Is everyone using the proposed settings or someone is flying with differentials? What is your experience/recommendation? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Why do you think symmetrical throws are strange? aileron differential is usually only applied to airframes with adverse yaw characteristics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Normally I have set 1,5 - 2 : 1 throws to high wing trainers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Personally I would think you would be better off feeding in some rudder into the turn to counter-act any adverse yaw, as per full sized aviation, failing that if you really want differential, I would set the mechanical throws in symmetry and program the servo deflection maximums on the TX to achieve differential - perhaps on a switch so you can see what difference it makes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 What % mix do you think would fit this plane? 15-20%? Good idea, I'll programme it switchable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Always better to start finding out in small steps - then nothing drastic should happen, I would start off with 20-25% differential and do some test flights.... first off with differential switched off - to find out if you actually need it or not, then if you are getting adverse yaw that cant be corrected by using coordinated turns switch in the differential But apart from some biplanes and some very high performance machines - I would be surprised if its needed on the E-Pioneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 Differential is indeed not needed per se but in the process of improving its flight characteristics I did indeed set differential mechanically by angling the servo arms forward ten degrees and the tenancy to hang her tail in a turn despite rudder input has vanished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I havedone the mechanical setup, switchable between the basic and advanced modes as per the manual. I have programmed a switchable ail-rud mix (20%), and a switchable 2 tó 1 ail diff. I still need tó program the f150 gyro, other than that and a few tweaks here and there, it is ready for takeoff 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 That all sounds about right, on the subject of the gyro remember to make it possible to disable it as your not allowed to take your A with any gyro assistance, that said keep the gyro for windy days as it will allow you to fly when others are packing up because it's to gusty, also remember if the gains are set for trainer mode they will be over sensitive in sport mode, unless you can reset the gains from the TX you won't be able to switch modes in flight without first switching the gyro of, also my preference is for a fair bit of expo on first few flights, it helps prevent you from over reacting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Good point. Actually, I have to do it like that - for takeoff it is recommended it to be turned off. If I understand the manual well, I can set individual directions/endpoins/sensitivity with the 3 pots, and set a common gain with an extra channel. There's a 10ch rx installed, so I have enough lines to go It is kind of a Catch 22... I plan to maiden it in full manual mode (with expo, 20% for start), and only turn on the assist mode if I need a "bailout"..but how do I know if it will work without testing it first? Anyway, I am waiting for a windless sunny weekend now I plan to maiden it with 3S, 1100kv, 450W max bench power , 11x7 prop, 2000g takeoff weight. I have set it up in Phoenix Sim and yes, it is not a rocket, but flies well. With 4S... wow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 You see that must show how my abilities over the last year and a half since I returned to the hobby have improved as on 4s I find her quite manageable where as on 3s I find her very tame. not my memories of just a year ago!! You will find that the gyro can take several flights to get right and the movements of the individual pots is miniscule between just right and well out, my technique is to chose a calm day and start with minimal settings and a well trimmed aircraft put her across wind to see if the roll holds, into wind for the yaw and watch for the difference between attitude change on power increase with the pitch setting (if its set right the model will stay straight and level on power increase assuming its trimmed to climb slightly with the gyro of as it should do) another time you will spot excessive sensitivity on yaw is on the dive and climb out into wind from a stall turn, you get a very pronounced tail wag easily stopped waggling the wings slightly seems to cure it, that or turn it of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Apart from my copters, this will be my first time flying a plane with a gyro... that makes me more nervous than without it, which should be on the contrary, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Posted by Janos Deak on 05/05/2015 21:41:27: Apart from my copters, this will be my first time flying a plane with a gyro... that makes me more nervous than without it, which should be on the contrary, right? Quite right as long as you check the control corrections are going in the right direction (elevator goes up when you lift the tail etc) and you turn it on at a reasonable altitude 1st of little can go wrong, follow the above advice and you may even question whether or not its activated at 1st then its a case of very gradually increasing the pot settings one at a time till you can see its having an effect in moderate wind, properly set and moving the plane will produce only a barely discernable control surface reaction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jolliffee Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Is it ok to use the F150 3-Axis Gyro in a fixed wing plane - I only ask because I've only seen them on helicopters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Not really, but I would get the plane test flown and trimmed out by an experienced fixed wing pilot - so you have a stable starting point to set the gyros from - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 jolliffee: The FC150 is meant for fixed wing and unsuitable for copters. For example, it has no swash mixing... Also, it says in the manual: "Airplane flight control, 3 axis gyro + 3 axis accelerometer, auto level, compact size" http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2340929 Edited By Janos Deak on 06/05/2015 06:55:02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janos Deak Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Hi, At last, I could get my hands on a 11x8,5 and a 11x10 prop. The 11x8,5 turns 565W, the 11x10 turns 650W power Any of you guys have any experience with these props? As soon as we'll have some decent windless day, the bird is ready to fly I'll post a video... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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