john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 bit more done , wingtips now glued and clamped to centre section and aerilons cut out just a few question on the plan it shows just one servo , mounted in the centre section with pushrods running through wing rib holes to bellcranks in the tips , but i want to put two servos in , so do i locate both servos in the centre section and still use long pushrods out to the wingtip sections , or could i put a servo in each wing tip , picture of wingtip below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 also would you recommend i glass the tip joints ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modonaut Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 It's looking great! Where did you get those clamps from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 hi modonaut you can get a pack from the pound shop for ......... you've guessed it ... a pound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modonaut Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Posted by john melia 1 on 16/06/2013 17:51:42: hi modonaut you can get a pack from the pound shop for ......... you've guessed it ... a pound Hey, thanks for that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 I'd go for the separate aileron servos near the ailerons every time, John. Less weight, less lost motion. My post of 8th Jan in this thread shows how I've done it on my DB Cirrus Moth. That isn't the only way to do it but it works for me How do you mean, glass the tip joints? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 thanks pete , in the instructions , eddie says its up to the builder whether or not to glass the tip where the root of the tip meets the centre section as in the photo above , i was just wondering whether or not i would need to do this because of the extra weight of the sevo in each tip . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 just you percy i'm afraid its just the photo making it look flat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 just for you percy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Smith Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Hi there I am building the same Jodell I have put separate servos in mine in the outer wing panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Smith Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 I have used fut 3001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Thanks for the heads up percy All my ribs are the right way round theres little arrows pointing up so you cant go wrong really .Thanks michael i'm using the same servos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 16, 2013 Author Share Posted June 16, 2013 Posted by Percy Verance on 16/06/2013 20:19:01: That's ok then John. My flying colleague used a Savox mini servo in each wingtip John. Works very well. Don't forget to leave holes in the ribs large enough to pass an extension lead through...... and leave a bit of thread in there to pull the extension through. I'd be tempted to reinforce the joint with a strip of nylon about an inch or so wide, applied with either pva or aliphatic glue. percy do i put the strip of nylon tape over the ribs , or wait until its sheeted and put a strip over the sheet , sorry for the dumb questions but i'm a bit out of touch with building 28yrs to be exact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Smitheman Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hello John, You have been busy this weekend. Dihedral join: What I would do is to cut a plywood piece to glue alongside the wingspars. You can use a hacksaw to cut through the rib to slide this into place. I would use what was to hand, .5mm should be enough as it is so close to the wingtip. (less flight loading out there) Tip: make a template from a bit of cardboard (cereal box) to get the shape right, and then transfer this to the ply. If the doubler extends to the adjoining ribs, this will be more than strong enough. (just cut through one rib) I dont like using tape as it is unsightly on the surface. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Smitheman Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Aileron servos: Mine are outboard, midi size is plenty. A good 10g servo or 15g should be fine. I can post a pic later if you like. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 thanks charles the kit was supplied with ply dihedral braces i would to see a photo of the servos if you dont mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 just tried the futaba 3001's but they seem too big , even sitting more or less on the sheeting the servo horn would still be proud of the lower sheeting , i have two protech super micro's which are the same spec as the ripmax sd-200 ........................ Dimensions (mm): 25.0 x 29.5 x 13.9 Weight (grams): 16.0 Speed (sec): 0.14 Torque (Kg.cm): 2.50 Ball Raced: Yes would these be powerful enough for the aerilons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Smith Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hi there John yes my 3001 protrude above the lower sheeting I think it makes to easier to operate the ailerons. I have used double sided tape on to a small piece of ply (supplied for the control horns) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 michael have you got a photo please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Smitheman Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Hello John, Sorry work has got in the way. I will try to take some pics tonight. Search this forum photos for "aileron servo installation, and aileron servo tray. I found some nice pics of a CAP but I dont know how to post the link! This is the neatest way, mine just stick out underneath. Regarding bandaging the dihedral join, if the model has doublers, I do not see the necessity, as the loads out near the wingtip are very low compared to a central joint. I have just conned my son into doing a calculation in this regard, the result of which is "about thiry percent of the load on a central joint" So there! This is for normal flight loads, cartwheels are quite a different matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 charles i put the search in you suggested but nothing has come up in any of the topics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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