Jump to content

Charles Smitheman

Members
  • Posts

    248
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Charles Smitheman

  1. Yes please keep posting. I know how much effort and time posting takes, it's much appreciated. I have picked up lots of tips!
  2. It's a long while since I last posted on this forum, hello everybody. This build is just up my street, and most helpful to another wannabe machinist, struggling with the basics. Please keep it up! The tips are invaluable, there always seem to be gaps in explanations made in textbooks, but this real world example somehow makes it all so much clearer. I have been working on repairing broken engines, as an introduction to making a whole one myself, as my goal. I managed to make a replacement piston ring for an ST40, which works, but have yet to make a lapped piston and cylinder. Keith, what solvent do you use in your ultrasonic cleaner? Charles
  3. I have found a print shop that still uses the system. Yesterday I aquired enough sheets for my use. They are about 0.15 mm thick. There are two sizes about 20" by 15" and 10" by 15". The shop is Coombe Stationers and Printers in Coombe Lane in Wimbledon. The owner is a gentleman called Asit. He is quite happy for anyone to call him to collect some sheets. (And for me to post the details here) I paid 50p for the smaller and £1 for the larger sheets. I have been unable to source alu that thin or with that hardness elsewhere. 020 8947 8000 ask for Asit.
  4. Hello Digger, 20 Engines can be put in a box, and not take much space for you to store. Take photos of them, or write down what they are and post the information here. Then you will find out if they are worth anything or not. They may be worth posting individually if one or two of them are special. Regards, Charles
  5. For years now I have been using a 3s 2200 lipo with a normal starter (dont know the brand and forgotten where it came from!) It will start a Laser 150. If reluctant from cold I turn the prop until it is balancing on top of compression before applying the starter. The problem with starters is that they destroy smaller engines, which I have been playing with more recently. I have straightened many bent con rods on 20's and smaller (I take in orphans ?) So I made a mini starter with a B&S lawnmower starter motor. I removed the gearbox and turned up an adaptor which holds a bit of silicone tube of about 6mm id. I run this with two Lion cells. It starts anything up to a 20 easily, the idea being that the starter stalls in case of a hydraulic lock thus protecting the engine. I find the safest way is not to prime the little engines at all, but just to spin it with the starter until it draws in fuel itself.
  6. I built Dr. Michael Sun's Moth back in the late nineties. It was easy and fun to build if you like cutting out wing riblets. The wing folding works really well. I used strips of 3mm Tuffnal glued in to the structure and tapped for M3 nylon bolts which provide the rear pivots and front fixings. I am suppose that fiberglass sheet would do the job as an alternative. The rigging on this model is working hence the light hardware being adequate. I still fly it, it is an absolute pleasure to fly, and I have had no problems with it. My only recommendation is to use thicker than 1/16" sheet for the turtle deck as it is a bit of a starved cow back there! I used silk and dope, so this might not be a problem with other methods. The Saito 45S is a good match, well over powered.
  7. Thanks to Martin and Chronos, the taps arrived promptly. I tapped out an M5 propnut, and it fits perfectly. All good to go!
  8. Martin thanks for the link, I have ordered the taps from Chronos. Charles
  9. I have tried an M5 nut. It is too small. The 15FP has the unusual UNF thread. OS apparently changed threads with the 15LA. If I cannot find a dome nut manufacturer I shall have to look for a tap. I see some available from OZ on E bay. Thanks very much for the replies and help. Charles
  10. Hello Don, No joy at Just Engines unfortunately. They agree with the thread description but do not have a tap. Due to club rules I need a domed nut. (Apparently it is safer to be struck by a bullet shape rather than a bolt/nut on the front of the model. I have yet to find out if this is enforced with pusher prop models as well...) So I need to find a tap or a person with a tap who will make me one. This is a bit of nostalgia; I m building a copy of a Svenson Channy which was my first powered model. Charles
  11. Hello Tony, Did you manage to contact the supplier? If so please could you share the address. I am looking for a prop nut for an OS15FP which is an obscure thread, 7/32-32 apparently. Thanks, Charles
  12. Wow. I havent seen one of these for about 40 years. It looks in great condition. That ABS fuselage might have embrittled with age, they were not the strongest when new. I hope your landings are gentle! Charles
  13. I manged to mix the throttles on my Ripmax Harmony using my Futaba T14SG. The only thing I have failed to get to work is engine cut on the second engine. I did write down how I did it. It was a pretty agonising process for one who prefers carving balsa. One reason for bothering with a twin i.c. is surely the challenge of being ridiculously complicated. We could just stay home and watch the telly after all. But each to their own. I had a goal with mine, after watching a video on you tube of a Pica Duellist doing a 540 degree "stall turn" I think that most of my clubmates thought me mad and probably dangerous, but I have managed the manouver on a few occasions, and the model still survives! I enjoyed the challenge, yes it was worth it
  14. We used to add 2 ribs per side, reduce the dihedral and add ailerons- my first aileron model!
  15. Hello Robin, Great to see this, the Soarcerer flies so well. Build it light and fly it slow and it is remarkably efficient; yet it is fine in strong gusty conditions as well. My current one is at least 30 and going stong. A pleasure to fly, easy and economical to build. Regards, Charles Edited By Charles Smitheman on 08/05/2019 11:28:38
  16. 15.14 Mix-and-Match Tx and Rx Using different makes of transmitter and receiver is common practice when using 35 MHz equipment, especially with the large range of aftermarket receivers available. There is a point you must be aware of, however, concerning manufacturers guarantees. A matched Tx and Rx will be warranted by their manufacturer both as individual items and to work together as a pair. If you ‘mix and match’, the individual warranties still apply but you have no guarantee that the pair will work together. In this case you take upon yourself the legal responsibility of making sure that your equipment operates correctly. Above excerpt from the BMFA Members Handbook. Make of it what you will. But if it all goes pear shaped, am I covered by BMFA insurance or not? How could I legally prove that I have made sure that the equipment works or worked when tested? Signed documents from witnesses to a range test? And in what way is this different from like for like RX/TX .I still have to ensure that they are working before flight. I do not see how this is different to any other part of a model aircraft. Why has the BMFA singled it out? I as the operator am responsible to ensure that the flight can be safely carried out. It's all one long chain of command with many possible pitfalls!
  17. Do you think that it is safe to use different brands of golf clubs and balls? It's all down to the wording in the BMFA rules/ guidelines. Bmfa need to sort this nonsense out.
  18. Hello Rocker, Nigel R and Peter J are correct. If the nosewheel lands first, the model will go "mad" and try to go backwards. Wheelbarrowing. Check the attitude of the model on a level surface; if it is standing nose up, then raise the mains or lower the nose. Check the CG and main wheel placement. I find in general it is best to adjust the main undercarriage ( I am not familiar with your actual model ) so that with the correct cg it is almost balancing on the mains, and the nosewheel is just touching the ground. It is surprising how often some small adjustments can make a huge improvement to the way a model performs. Good luck
  19. Hello Chris, you have got a lovely Antic there! They are such good flyers, Here is an old picture of my parasol version. As you can see I am not much good at following the plans. I still have it after 30+ years, Good luck with yours, Charles
  20. My i charger 108 also smoked. Twice. The first time I think that the croc clip from the leisure battery slipped off whilst charging a 6s lipo. A genius club mate replaced several i.c. chips and it worked again for years. Sadly due to a dodgy plug whilst charging a nimh (my fault) the output shorted; the charger made an agonised scream and a LOT of smoke came out. What alarmed me after the first less obvious failure was that it tried to unbalance the lipo. This could have been dangerous. I now use an Revolectrix PL6 ? which is absolutely the bees knees. Edited By Charles Smitheman on 01/02/2019 15:27:35
  21. I used wet and dry for this purpose years ago. It still looks good to me..
  22. Hello Peter, This is looking good. I am glad to see the model getting built. One point I may have missed, I hope you took the engine backplate off to drill it for the pressure nipple, to be certain that no swarf got inside. Your colour scheme is most impressive, very intricate. Good luck with the maiden. Charles
  23. The previous scepticism from certain club mates soon evaporated and I suspect they will soon be reproducing. I have heard of rhino horn but this is ridiculous!
  24. Oh yes I fitted flaps, and they are great. However the model slows down much better than a single I suppose due to having two prop discs.
×
×
  • Create New...