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Pitts Special S1 - 1/3 scale


Herri
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The aluminium mount (spider) is fitted to the motor next and here the cooling fins need to be filed back a bit to enable a good fit. As you can see I covered the in and outlet ports with tape to ensure no filing fell in.

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It is also recommended to solder a piece of brass pipe to the carb to ensure the pressure in the carb corresponds to the same air pressure as that entering the inlet tube.

I had already done this on my ZG26 fitted to my Reagle Eagle and had good results. The 35cc NGH fitted to my Avro Avian runs rich in the air but good in the ground. There is a lot written by experts on the web about this, so I wont go into the details here but suffice to say, I will be trying this on my Avian.

Its really simple. A piece of tube is shaped and soldered on the cover (after removal )

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The whole thing was trial fitted with the Hydro Mount system.

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The formers are next.

They are made up from some 2mm strip reinforced with 0.4mm ply.

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The precut ply front former for the U/C is fitted with the metal fittings whilst the rear one is done later. This enables the U/C to be trial fitted later and then removed.

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Now (next week) comes the exciting bit: building the fuselage.laugh

Herri

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Hi Herri,

I just came across you build thread and though I’d share some pictures of my Toni Clark Pitts. It’s probably one of the best quality kits I’ve ever built. I have a 55cc Flat twin in mine, flying is a real joy, but you have to really fly it if you know what I mean.

I ended up putting a servo in for each aileron within the bottom wing, I did this because I was not too worried about precise aerobatics, I also did not use the counter balance on the elevators mainly to save weight. I used two servos mounted at the rear giving short direct linkage to each elevator, this also made setting up much easier. If you want some pictures of this I’ll post them up for you.

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Hi John,

What a good looking aeroplane. cool I'm pleased someone else in the UK has one.

I like the colour scheme. I am still tending towards the original red with sunburst but my wife prefers the green Breiting we saw at Duxford this year.

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Here it is.

Yes, I would be interested in your photos.

Cheers

Herri

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So, I have a start on the fuselage, although work has interfered.angry

First the balsa strip which goes along the sides has to be shaped as per plan:

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The firewall is then fixed to the strip and board along with F2.

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The two ply side panels are then epoxied in place.

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As you may have noticed, the fuselage is build upside down to start with. Hence the side thrust is the other way round.

The holes in the plan are to allow you to tack the formers to the board ensuring a square build.

Herri

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Hi Herri, i just took this picture to show the elevator servo, I put one for each side. I got the idea from one of the German build blogs on the Toni Clark web site, there are some pictures on there of how the servo box is made. I didn't take any pictures unfortunately when I made mine, but hopefully this should give you an idea.

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Yes, thats better. Nice yes

There is a lot of discussion on the German forums about how many servos for the elevators and ailerons.

Considering the servos now available, I am going to stick with the original method of one servo for the elevators and one in each wing centre for the ailerons.

BTY, did you have the Honda logo made? Looks good.

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Yes I got the all the logs made for me by MT Custom Graphics, they have kept all these on their files in case I needed more' if you want their details I can give them to you. To get them made I gave them dimensions for each logo and an image for each logo.

They also made all the logos for this Mike Smart 1/3 scale Pitts which I bought already built, I just needed to cover and paint. I've not flown this one yet.

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Another nice looking aeroplane John.

 

I have managed a bit today between other stuff.

I had to wait for the glue to dry anyway as I can’t use cyano (allergic)

I stuck the two formers to the board. Along with the two top (when its upright) longerons. (had to look that up) indecision

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These were shaped to fit the round pieces at the front.

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Then it was a case of shaping the read ends to be square over the plan

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I still need to glue the longerons to the ply sides but as I write this I am waiting for the other joints to dry a little.

I’ll then let this lot dry until tomorrow.

Edited By Herri on 10/10/2013 14:23:12

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Thanks for the nudge blush

Yes, the glue has dried.

The tail post was glued in followed by the diagonal strengtheners along the bottom. This is the top later and the crossed ones at the cockpit will be removed before finishing.

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The cockpit floor is added

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Edited By Herri on 11/10/2013 14:19:45

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I saw this recently in a magazine. Using dividers instead of say a ruler or venier gauge. I tried it out and hey – it works a treat.cheeky

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The 6mm round wood is used here to imitate the steel tube in the original.

This comes already slotted to slide over the ply sides. Nice touch. thumbs up

This will later be partly visible in the cockpit.

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Looking ok, me thinks.

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Edited By Herri on 11/10/2013 14:28:25

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The rear u/c brackets are next. They are temporary fastened in place and the u/c legs mated up to the front brackets. Here I am having a few issues.

First of all I had the bolts around the wrong way, so the bolt end with the nut on fowls the u/c leg. Also the legs are just long enough to hold into the front brackets. There is not a millimeter spare. I will file a millimeter or so off the front former to give me a bit to play with. sad

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You can probably see what I mean. The distance between the washer and the end fits in the bracket.

I assume it must go through to the front part of the bracket in order to achieve the required strength

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I bought them some years ago at the Model Engineers Exhibition in London.

I have about 4-5 and they are really handy.

These people do them:

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/GENERAL_WORKSHOP_TOOLS_.html

but you can google model engineering.

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Well I struggled a bit but it seems to fit ok now.

The front pivot axle could have been a tad longer. The instructions say to place the washer onto the said pivot , epoxy the former 3 in place and then soft solder the washer in place.

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I saw no way of doing that, so I soldered the washers in place before fitting.

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The former is now epoxied in position.

I have fitted the tail wheel bracket after first sanding down the hard wood .

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Hi, I had the same issues with my u/c legs if its any consolation.

Looking good though. By the way your build blog has inspired me to make some changes to mine. I just ordered a brand new fuselage from Toni Clark yesterday. When I built mine originally I put the elevator hinges in too close so I only get about 30mm movement up and down, and also I'd like to also see what it's like using the counter weight on the elevator. I'd also like to see if I can make mine any lighter. I also cart wheeled it on landing this summer no damage but I'm sue it has changed the top wing incidence, as I now have to fly with a bit of down elevator.

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I must watch my hinges then wink

Do you remember your total weight. I see the German builders were hoping for 8,5 kg but 9kg was ok.

I seem to remember the designer now says the counter weight is not needed anymore due to the improvement in servo power.

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