laquer protection for decals

[john melia 1]

i've just devised some flame decals using adobe illustrator , and have printed one on clear adhesive backed paper from crafty computers using the inkjet printer.

what laquer could i spray over the top with to protect the decal from the glow fuel

Also i have sprayed the entire model (force 1 delta) with car gloss car spray paint which is acrylic , is this paint fuel proof , or will i have to spray the entire model with the same laquer as the decals ?

[cymaz]

Clearcoat over the entire frame might be one solution, but I would do a test bit first.

[john melia 1]

cymaz is the clear coat just the car spray paint i've been using , but just laquer ?

[john melia 1]

is this **LINK** fuel proof

[cymaz]

Sorry **this ** is clearcoat

[john melia 1]

thanks cymaz , i'd need it in a rattle can though , the compressor i have is pretty small , no good for large areas with an airbrush

[stuey]

Spectrum gloss fuel proofer is available in a spray. Make sure you test it on a sample first though! You also might have to key the paint first for good adhesion.

[Phil 9]

Posted by stuey on 10/11/2013 12:20:48:
Spectrum gloss fuel proofer is available in a spray. Make sure you test it on a sample first though! You also might have to key the paint first for good adhesion.

I used spectrum clear paint on my homemade decals. It worked well for me

[john melia 1]

i've just read a few earlier posts on fuel proofing , and all seemed to have problems with it here is one of the posts **LINK**

i've also googled nitro fuel proofer , and there seems to be lots of dissapointed people using so called fuel proofers that don't "fuel proof"

is there not an accepted product that everyone uses and works ??

[john melia 1]

does poly c give a gloss finish ?

[WolstonFlyer]

You could try the Profilm clear coat spray. I dont know if it will react with your printed decals though.
***Link***

[john melia 1]

what a minefield !!! think i'll just stick to oracover , or something similar the next time

[Martin Whybrow]

I had the same problem recently and I eventually used epoxy finishing resin (Zap Z-Poxy PT40) which works well; it is slightly yellow, so may be no good over white decals. It's completely fuel proof, doesn't stink, and it won't cause the underlying colours to run or react.

Edited By Martin Whybrow on 10/11/2013 23:03:30

[john melia 1]

Thanks martin was going to give up and put it on the shelf

[john melia 1]

Thanks martin was going to give up and put it on the shelf

[Mark Stevens 1]

I've usually found that normal model varnish works well for sealing decals so long as they are not in the direct line of any exhaust flow or residue that does sometimes creep along fuselages. The prop will usually dissipate most exhaust gasses quite well so you shouldn't really need to worry about this.

I've not had to replace any yet so it obviously works.

Mark

Edited By Mark Stevens 1 on 11/11/2013 01:05:37

[john melia 1]

Posted by Martin Whybrow on 10/11/2013 23:03:12:

I had the same problem recently and I eventually used epoxy finishing resin (Zap Z-Poxy PT40) which works well; it is slightly yellow, so may be no good over white decals. It's completely fuel proof, doesn't stink, and it won't cause the underlying colours to run or react.

Edited By Martin Whybrow on 10/11/2013 23:03:30

martin can this be applied over the acrylic car paint , and can it be brushed or rollered on , just ned to know before i dive in and order it

[Martin Whybrow]

Yes, it can be applied over acrylic with no problems.

[john melia 1]

Cheeaz martin some on order tomorrow thank you

[Glyn R]

I now use my local vinyl sign cutter. Print the design and take it to him he will cut it in auto trim vinyl, lovely sharp letters that look better than most Original decal sets. You could even take an original set to be copied,