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Ever wanted to get into or improve your aerobatics?


Peter Jenkins
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Can I urge any of you who are within an hour's drive of Doncaster to give very strong consideration to attending Bob's NPOD. It is truly an amazing experience. All the pilots who've flown in the NPODs I've organised have been so enthusiastic about how much they had learned in one day. You also have the opportunity to go back to the beginning of this thread to get your aircraft trimmed out properly and then use the descriptions of how to fly the Clubman schedule a few pages back to get your teeth into a bit of practice before hand.

However, having the services of practicing aerobatic pilots to help you to understand why things go wrong and how to get better is a great opportunity that is difficult to match, So, please do go along. You might even find that you get sufficiently enthused to go for your B and take up aerobatic flying in competition. It is immensely rewarding and your flying skills improve in leaps and bounds.

I will shortly be announcing when and where I'll be running the 4th East Anglian NPOD on this forum as well as circulating all Club Secs in East Anglia with the information.

Peter

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Hi All,

I'm cracking on with my Monolog as the weather stops all flying! Pictures attached of 'dry' fitting.

Just wondered, is it best in F3A to have ailerons on 'Y' lead or separated.

I only have a Spektrum DX6i, so few mixes or programming available.

 
Would appreciate any advice.
 
Thanks


Geoff
 
Can't find how to add the pictures, sorry.

Edited By Geoff Reynolds on 16/01/2015 16:04:43

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I have a Monolog 110 and I use separate channels for the ailerons (as I do for most models with a servo for each servo) for a few reasons:

  1. You can use subtrim to get the servo centre, if you can’t get the arms fitted at 90deg to control rod.
  2. You can programme in aileron differential if needed.
  3. If the model has a tendency to tip stall up can set up spoilerons (both ailerons go up by a small amount), or if it doesn’t have a tip stall tendency then flaperons (both aileron going down again a small amount), to allow slower landings if needed.

By the way, for the money the Monolog is a very capable model and is more than capable of taking you through a lot of competition flying.

Edited By "L"Plate on 16/01/2015 17:55:12

Edited By "L"Plate on 16/01/2015 17:55:47

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Thanks 'L' plate,

mine is the smallest one of this family of models.

I've used both methods before on 'ordinary' models, but wanted to get it 'right' with this one!

Peter's PM gave a couple more sobering thoughts/reasons: - "if a servo malfunctions with one servo you are done for. Also, with one servo there is likely to be more slop in the system and slop is bad!

Notice that all my servos need centering by sub-trim. I want everything right with this model.

IQON, let's hope I don't need another too soon!

Cheers

Geoff

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You can’t use a single servo as the wings slide off, however if a model uses just one both points are to a point true, not so much with the slop part but you are then operating an aileron through a toque rod normally to the inboard end, so can mean the ailerons lose some movement towards the tip.

I have landed a petrol model without a problem when one aileron servo died in the air, but that should be unlikely with an electric model, just as a thought not a lot of models (in our size range) use two servos for the elevators (if they fail a single point landing will result).

That is a good reason for using servos with a proven reputation (that said it was a Futaba servo that died on my model but then petrols do produce more vibration and it had done a fair number of hours).

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'L' Plate,

When finally built, mine will probably never have the wings off. I have larger (all foamie) models with larger spans that are never de-constructed once put together. I store and transport them (Honda Jazz) with no problems.

The one servo idea probably means one servo connection at the rx, rather than one servo, but maybe I'm wrong in defending Peter on that one.

Anyway, this brings me to my next question I had, which is do I mount the servos with rubber grommets as supplied or straight to the ply formers?

And finally, does your spinner cover the nose,. The instructions with mine show the cowl opened up around a smaller (maybe 38mm) spinner, allowing cooling air in that way. I'd envisaged cutting out the motor shaft hole to 45 mm , fitting a 45mm spinner and opening the cheek and lower area up for cooling entry. (and of course opening the rear area of the fuselage for exit)

Cheers for your help

EG

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I have the motor mounted in the Monolog 110 on a rear crucifix mount (I think it is the same with the 70), there is a large opening just behind the cowl under the fuselage (I mounted the ESC there), I cut two holes in the front of the cowl. As the majority of flight is at low throttle only using full power for vertical climbs and about ¾ for a large loop, the motor and batteries hardly get warm and the ESC remains cool (my flight times are around 10 so less than 6C average as I normally have 3.8V per cell left). On the 70 it might be worth cutting a hole in the covering at the bottom rear fuselage (last open bay), this will help air flow over the battery, if you still think you need more cooling air then a vented spinner like these **LINK**

or cutting the front off a spinner (make sure you balance it afterwards),will let air through (as long as the back plat has hole in it).

On the servo front, it depends on a couple of thing:

A – Is the servo supported from rocking from side to side?

B – Are the grommets full width?

If not, then I straight the servo that has single screws at each end, if using grommets make sure you put the ferrules in the right way (post two on the link) **LINK**

I would also add this piece of advice, If you want to fly the model a lot and keep precision in your controls, don’t use “Z” bends, use good ball links at both ends of your control rods (Align 600 class helicopter ones are a reasonable price).

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Hi 'L' Plate

My motor will be mounted the sameway. However, mine is the even smaller version 50 or 400 as shown here: -**LINK** and you can see the cut out around the spinner.

The interior appears similar and I will be mounting my ESC low down where the hole through the firewall allows good airflow. Mine has no opening beneath.

So, if I can find a 38mm spinner with a 5mm shaft size, I'll go for that, otherwise it will be the 45mm spinner and some holes in the cowl. Also the hole in the covering at the rear for exit air. I can then increase this depending on motor/ESC/battery heat.

The servos are mounted in boxes (or should be, none came with my kit) and are tight fit laterally.

The grommets are single rings for the single mounting holes each end, but do I need them?

I had proposed to use adjustable clevis's on the control rods to give that final 'tweak' of precision in the set up. Not sure I like 'Z' bends both ends, but would have these on servo end. Saw a ball link come off in a very big glider once and the guy was lucky to get it down on one aileron!

Cheers

EG

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Sorry I thought your was the 70.

The small spinner system looks like it would work very well.

I avoid “Z” bend on all but indoor models, never had a problem with ball links on either helicopter or my fixed wing models (and I do throw them around a fair bit), most of the big boy F3A chaps used ball links as well (as they give less slop than clevises, which are better than “Z” bends after a few hours flying).

As your model is a 400 size, there is no problem direct fitting the servos and definitely as your servos have ring grommets.

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Posted by "L"Plate on 17/01/2015 21:02:06:

Sorry I thought your was the 70.

The small spinner system looks like it would work very well.

I avoid “Z” bend on all but indoor models, never had a problem with ball links on either helicopter or my fixed wing models (and I do throw them around a fair bit), most of the big boy F3A chaps used ball links as well (as they give less slop than clevises, which are better than “Z” bends after a few hours flying).

As your model is a 400 size, there is no problem direct fitting the servos and definitely as your servos have ring grommets.

Thanks,

I'll go away and rethink the connectors and fit servos without grommets.

Regards

EG

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Been tied up with family issues so thanks to L Plate for answering above.

I would endorse L Plate's comment on ball links - have replaced the Q Links on my Monolog 70 with 2 mm ball links.

However, I would always fit the grommets to the servo. The ferrules should be inserted from the bottom i.e. when bolted down the ferrule contacts the servo bearer and the servo screw is then tightened down till the top of the ferrule stops it. That gives a pretty solid fixing but does allow some flex when the servo is subjected to a severe force - called a crash! Stops the plastic servo flange from being broken - unless it's a really severe crash! For ic models, it also insulates against vibration but this is, of course, missing in electric powered airframes.

Peter

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