Bill Worsley Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I have been offered an ASW 28 electric glider, in need of some TLC. Are there any places where spares are available?? Thanks Bill W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will -0 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Zulu Glasstek? are the UK agent for alexander schleicher I believe.. Or if it's a model one, you could help us by giving the manufactuer...................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 It is a model glider!!!!!!!! Manufacturer could be either ST Models or I think FMS?? Bill W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 The ASW 28 is an ST Model( www.sheng-teng.com) The manual says it has a brushless motor, no more details. Any ideas on what Kv it would be? The battery required is a 2-cell 1,000 Mah 7.4v LiPo. All my LiPo's are 3 cell 11.1V. Would they be OK?. Would it be better to get another motor and use the 3-cell LiPo's ? With that in mind what would be a suitable motor? I am assuming the original is an Inrunner. I hope someone has been down this route before. The original owner says the climb rate with the original motor and 2-cell Lipo is quite pedestrian. Thanks, Bill W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Just had a quick look and the motor is a small bell motor and is an outrunner...Bill W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 You cant just use a 3 cell battery on a motor /prop combo designed for a 2s - it will likely burn out the motor and possibly the ESC. You could if you reduced the size of the prop, but then you will probably find it lacks "climb" which is not good news for a glider . Lipos are cheap these days, so why not just get some 2s packs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Sounds like a plan. As you say they are cheap enough. Thanks Bill W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Looking at the space for the LiPo in the ASW28, there isn't a lot of room. I can't find any indication from the manual as to the physical dimensions of the battery. Looking on the internet it seems they come in all shapes and sizes. Can anyone recommend a battery that they are successfully using in their ASW 28. Thanks Bill W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Jones Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 I think this is what you have, in which case the spares are here This isn't a hotliner, more of an electric assist glider. Pick up a thermal and you can fly all day, great Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 A couple of questions. Whilst the 1050 kv motor is OK. With the folding prop being a screw-on type, held firmly by a nut at the back and front of the prop, there doesn't seem much scope for changing the prop at any stage. With that in mind, how easy is it to change the motor to a type that I can use to select a prop to suit my needs. It seems even the motor and mount are glued in. Is the necessary surgery easy enough to do? Any recommendation on a suitable motor. It would seem that the ARTF version used a 2.4 Ghz receiver. Would it be feasible to use a 35Mhz Rx? What typical voltage do you get out of the ESC to power the Rx? Thanks Bill W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Hi All, Just got down to trying to sort out the radio gear. What I have found so far are that both the elevator and rudder servos are a bit noisy. Also, despite the ATV's being set to 100%, there doesn't seem to be a lot of throw on either control surface. Another thing I have noticed is with the ailerons, when operated the inboard ends move about 1/4", either way, from their central position, whereas the outer ends only move an 1/8". This appears to be caused be the hinged part of the ailerons being not as free as they should?? Is this easy to correct? As I suspect the rudder and elevators may be similarly afflicted??? Thanks Bill W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Worsley Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 Hi All, Once again, I have come across something I am not happy with in the ASW 28 I have recently purchased. This time it is the control surfaces and their operation. The Ailerons, Elevator and the Rudder, when disconnected from the servos and their control wires, are very stiff. The hinging mechanism is the same on them all, and seems to be no more the part of the control surface being moulded thinner than the rest, to create a type of hinge. An example of this is when I connect the Elevator to the servo and operate it. Before either the servo or the elevator reaches full travel, the servo starts to buzz and the whole Tailplane starts to move. When the Tailplane is disconnected, it is evident, by manual operation, that the control surface is a lot stiffer at the hinge point, than I would have expected. The two solutions I have thought of trying are :- 1/ As the hinges are full length, I thought that if I removed part of it, leaving say 4 x 1/2" sections to act as hinges?? 2/ Remove the existing "hinge" and replace it with something more suitable. Any suggestions as to the type and size would be appreciated. If anyone has any other ideas as to how I can achieve this, I would be grateful for your input. Thanks Bill W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Austin Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Hi there Bill, it is often recommended by the various Foamie suppliers that we work the moving hinge surfaces a dozen times by hand just to "run them in" so to speak to loosen up that moulded hinge line. It is also general practice to insert a strip of blenderm tape or similar into both the top and bottom length of these moulded hinges, in case they split during normal wear and tear. These actions have served me well with my Phoenix 2000 and 1600 from the same factory. Hope this helps Go With the Flow Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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