will -0

THis is an all moving tailplane isn't it? In which case the angle of attack is wherever you push the stick to.

double post boo. Edited By will -0 on 24/04/2020 08:43:08

It always amazes me not that people put that sort of stuff up for sale, but that it's £25 asking price. I mean, fair enough someone might be able to recover parts or whatever, but it's basically scrap metal. I have a rule that I try very hard to stick to - don't buy crap no matter the price. There's plenty of perfectly good stuff to go round. Sadly some things I've missed out on - you used to be able to buy a saito 30 open rocker for £50-£80 15 years ago, not any more.

What is it Cymaz?

Hi Richard, looks like an interesting project, what size was the CAP one? IIRC most of the kits were a little on the well built side, but maybe that doesn't matter so much with a moth? Would be fascinated to see the build, always interesting to open these time capsules and put them to the purposa that they were made for

Posted by kc on 05/04/2020 00:10:05: An amazing piece of construction ........am I the only person to wonder whether such a bulky fuselage is really necessary for modern aerobatics? These, although they look like aircraft, are actually airships and you need the bulky fuselage to get enough helium inside to lift it. This was found to make the aerobatics much easier as all you have to then do is point the airship in the right direction and open the throttle to move it that way. The wings and so on are just for show. They don't like to admit this, of course, it's very hush-hush which is why no-one ever mentions it.

Looks great, pointy hawker biplanes really are good lookers, if hard to model. I'm blessed by being just up the road from Duxford where there's usually at least two on site!

Jon you're taking away the mystery of it all However, good to hear something happening to "current engines" if you know what I mean.

Posted by Cuban8 on 18/11/2019 10:35:54: This is all so unintentionally funny it would've made a great piece for the old TV series 'That's Life' that only a few of us oldies will remember. To be more practical - in the case of a lovely competition scale model, what about having the operator number attached to a suitable part of the airframe only when flying? A small and unobtrusive clip on type widget with the regulation sticker, that can be easily removed for judging and simply attached before flying i.e clipped in position by hand. Just check it's in place as part of preflight checks. Don't think that falls foul of any rules, but you never know............. Edited By Cuban8 on 18/11/2019 10:38:09 Cuban, see my suggestion above. Don't see why not.

Magnet fixed to inside the model skin somewhere Magnetic label with number on That way you can have it outside, have it easily removable not spoil your scale model it's just an idea, haven't tried it Edited By will -0 on 18/11/2019 08:49:29

hello, in that case i'd stlll use solder but look to sleeve the inside pipe first to fill the gap. If necessary, split a pipe lengthways so that it'll go over

PS most flying clubs just use a windsock.....

JB weld is basically (as far as I can tell) epoxy thickened with powdered metal. It is very stiff once mixed although like any epoxy, temperature makes it both more runny and faster setting. I would use solder for this as if you get the pipe warm enough and it's a good enough fit it should flow up the gap ( plumber's torch etc.) If you happen to know a plumber who is amenable, it might even be worth asking them to do the job as you'll only get one shot at it.   One downside of solder is that if this is going to be outdoors (and that would seem a very good idea for a weather vane) you'll likely get some corrosion around the joint . Edited By will -0 on 17/11/2019 18:27:08

Another Cotswold outdoor discount?

exhibit A **LINK**

Posted by cymaz on 15/11/2019 16:16:40: Come on Rob....if you have an A or equivalent, you just pay £9 to register with the CAA. Which you could probably do through the club at renewal time. How much more trouble is it to write a cheque for an extra £9? Quite right Could you write a cheque to me for £9 if it's not too much trouble? You don't get anything in return, of course

That's great (about the buddy box not robert throwing his toys) Robert, if you still enjoy it, I can't imagine how doing a little test and paying a tiny bit more is going to stop you enjoying it.

I don't have an F2b part built or otherwise but I do wish I did...

Hi Just posting this as a review of my experience with the above. Some two years ago, deciding that I'd rather spend time building models than flight boxes I opted to buy a pre-built box. Looking around, though nothing was perfect, this one caught my eye as it doesn't have a power panel slot (which I'd not use) and has a model stand on top **LINK**   I hasten to add that I did not buy this from SMC but paid £37 for a new one from fleabay. Anyway, all was well initially, it's finished in a very fuel proof varnish, though it looks like this is sprayed on after assembly as it doesn't reach inside cavities etc. It doesn't have a space to store a fuel bottle- at least not the standard ones we get in this country. This is annoying and not easy to fix The battery box is OK< the switch and wiring are somewhat hard to install as access is limited. The cradle on top is OK< though it's held on with screws and plain nuts which have a habit of coming undone. Now the bad bit - about a year ago I noticed a joint coming loose. No bother thinks me, they missed a bit with the glue. The other week I noticed this again somewhere else and on further investigation I now have a flight box kit. It seems that they have used a very brittle adhesive - maybe cyano - to glue the plywood together. It doesn't look like the laser cut edges were prepped prior to assembly and so the whole thing was very easy to pull apart. This is very annoying as I didn't want to build one! Furthermore as I've used it a bit, some of the joints were letting in oil. So last night I completely dismantled the thing (which was super easy and did not damage the wood at all........) and have scraped the residue off the joints, sanded them back and am now re-building it with Epoxy Hopefully the oil ingress won't be a problem The upside is that having taken it apart I can now modify it to take a fuel bottle and tidy up the wiring. Edited By will -0 on 13/11/2019 11:13:15

Hi Geoff So long as it works for you, carry on. I've done it both ways and found the free method to be much more reliable. If you use pins to pull things into shape you haven't eliminated the twist you've merely forced it into a particular shape. Once the pins are removed it pings back (unless you've added a component to resist the twist like D-box sheeting or similar). Of course at this stage you've put a lot of effort into the wing so fixing the problem is annoying. If you do it free, if there's a twist as you're building you can see it immediately and do something about it as you go. The resultant wing should be stress free and stay untwisted.

It could be argued that putting plastic back into landfill is the best thing to do with it. Completes the cycle: DIg up oil from underground turn into plastic turn into model plane put it back under ground That way the carbon stays locked up

I still have all the models I have ever built.

Incidentally this is one reason I prefer to build wings "in the hand" rather than pinned down. I find the pinning down technique can lead to warps appearing as the pins are released as there are stresses built in which are masked by the pins.

Posted by Don Fry on 11/11/2019 07:26:57: Posted by Steve J on 10/11/2019 21:46:05: Posted by Don Fry on 10/11/2019 21:10:36: I got 19 correct. I disagreed with the CAA on the 20th, on a safety issue. Which question did you disagree with the CAA on? Something about flying a drone, you have positioned it in the sun, and can't see it. Do you land it out, or fly it towards you. The answer is fly it towards you steadily until you can see it. Nothing about move it laterally out of the sun, or descend, ascend out of the sun. If it disappears in the sun, keep it where you can't see it (in the sun) and fly it directly towards you until it hits you in the face.

Hello, I had this with my SE5A the easiest solution was to make the rigging functional. I could get rid of the twist and iron out the wrinkles, but as the stress was still there in the structure it just warped back over time. My solution is to leave the thing rigged and add a cross brace between the struts to pull it square. Made a huge difference to the flying qualities of the aircraft.,