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Take one Dynam Spitfire...


The Wright Stuff
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I have to emphasise that I've not flown it and don't know for sure what the exact effect will be. I suspect the effect of the dihedral will be tiny. The bigger change will be a slightly bigger wing loading due to increased weight. But we're talking really quite small differences, really. There are some guys in the USA who have done the mods and report no issues.
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  • 2 weeks later...
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Those of you following this build thread will be pleased to know that I had a good Easter weekend working on the Spit, so progress is starting to accelerate. I completed the undercarriage: painted it silver and then spray painted the doors to match the underwing stripes, and then reassembled the doors using some new (shorter) screws - about 10 mm length is sufficient, otherwise they will break through the back of the mounting lugs on the leg.

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The reason that fitting the undercarriage took a little longer than I anticipated was that I had failed to realise that the top of the metal legs have flats on them, so they are not freely rotatable in the E-Flite retract units. I had to re-file the flat a little further around the circumference, and since the grub screw to retain the legs can't be accessed once the retracts are positioned in the wing, there are quite a few cycles of fitting, removing, adjusting and refitting. I'm sure this will sound familiar to you all!

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I also fitted the cannons at this point: gluing them into the wings with the glue supplied with the kit (I figured I would use it for something non-critical). I chose to fix them in the 'E' configuration (cannon outboard of stub). Happily, this was one of the easier parts of the assembly - it was quite a good fit.

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The final shot I've used artistic licence and turned upside down - a moody view of the flaps and undercart down for landing! I'll get some better pictures outside once it's all together on the fuselage.

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Thanks chaps. Carlsberg don't make Dynam Spitfires, but if they did...

Before finally finishing the wing, I dug out the fuselage from its 'hiding place' and measured up the wing root interface. A test fit then revealed that a tiny (and I mean tiny - about 0.5 mm on each side) sliver of foam needed to be shaved away from the top of the inside face of the wing root at the front.

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This is all that is required to compensate for the additional 3 degrees of dihedral. The picture probably shows this better than a description. I used a new sharp scalpel blade and took my time to keep it neat.

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Once confident that I didn't need to modify the wing any further, and a snug fit was achieved, I removed it again ready for final finishing. The fuselage bottom on either side of the joint will need a tiny amount of reprofiling, but that will be a quick job for later. Right now, the onus was on getting the wing done! The top surface painting was completed, touching up a couple of scuffs, and the roundels added. Then the only remaining items were the yellow stripes and gun patches on the leading edges of the wings.

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The yellow flashes come as stickers with the kit, but curiously (unless I misunderstood something) they only seem to be provided for the top surface, whereas in reality, the yellow should extend symmetrically onto the lower surface paintwork too. Not wanting to attempt to wrap the sticker around the leading edge, I simply painted in the lower surface flash in the same colour, using masking tape to keep a neat edge. I was happy enough with the result, although in hindsight, it probably wouldn't have been much more effort to just paint it on the top and bottom and discard the stickers.

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The red/brown gun patch stickers were cut down to be flush with the yellow stripes, and then applied. Once again, I'm impressed with the quality of the sticker adhesive - I have no worries about them peeling off, but you only get one chance to put them on!

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The final job was just to use some narrow strips of tape to secure the servo wires protruding from each wing roots. It'll keep it tidier when feeding it into the fuselage for final assembly.

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So there we are. It's been a long time coming, but the wing is done! It can be moved out of the work area to somewhere safe, and on with the fuselage... now where did I put that pilot?

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I have one serious personal challenge now! My 'unmodified' bog standard but assembled spit will be savagely butchered and pretty much copied from yours (although I fancy a North Africa desert paint job)! I have a set of E-flites in a drawer somewhere, but I am not going for working flaps, I will just cut out and re-fit for scale effect. It's foam, it can be hacked within an inch of its life and still built back up so 'bring it on'. I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread, along with Ady's Warbirds MKIX build. (Have moved into new man-cave and will post on 'show us yours thread' soon. Despite all the work and time, I don't feel settled in there yet, almost want my old cabin back! Tropical! ).

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Just had a thought, I want mine to be at least as good as TWS, which is awesome as far as I am concerned. I will lose most of the roundels and lettering, is it possible to get a replacement set from Dynam, I really don't fancy painting in any of that by hand or airbrush! Any idea anyone?

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The split flaps are by far the most time-consuming bit of the conversion, I got bogged down for quite a while when doing them, but the end result is one I'm pleased with.

The important thing is to get the vertical position of the hinge line right. The kit has top hinges moulded in the foam for non-split flap-ready conversions, but this is a hindrance rather than helpful, because split flaps need to be bottom-hinged. The hinges need to be close to the surface, otherwise it's difficult to get the full 86 degree angle.

In hindsight, I might have just gone for the much simpler solution of just bonding the hinges to the outside of the bottom surface - this is how it is done on the E-Flite Hurricane. I guess it would even be possible to just use hinge tape. I was rather old school with my balsa and pins approach!!!

Good luck, and post some pictures of your own progress!

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And now for something completely different!

As I hinted, I've now put the wing to one side and begun a determined push to get the rest of it done. Next up: the pilot and cockpit. The first job was to trim down the pilot by butchering his waist until he is a snug fit in the cockpit, with the canopy clear of the top of his head. I then sanded the base back using sandpaper laid down on a flat surface to get the bottom smooth for gluing into the cockpit. A light mist of spray primer and then I got down to the painting. First block in the main colours and build up the flesh tones from lots of thin coats of increasing darkness each time.

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Next, I applied a black wash to get some shadows in there and add a bit of dirt and grime. Finally, I made a fake pair of goggles from masking tape and sprayed the exposed areas with some oil leaks...

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To be honest, I think I probably overdid the effect a bit, but from inside the canopy, no-one is going to scrutinize him for his cleanliness too much anyway!

Edited By The Wright Stuff on 09/04/2015 17:25:00

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So a pilot needs a cockpit. I could have 'gone to town' here, with instruments, control column, and all the other details, but to be honest, it really isn't going to be all that visible. So I contented myself with a rudimentary instrument panel painted in silver on black, and just made a neat job of painting the rest, keeping it fairly simple.

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Principal colour is Humbrol 78 (cockpit green). The pilot was glued in using plenty of adhesive on the base and extended up the inside areas of the hollow section. I wanted to ensure he was stuck pretty well, since if he comes loose during a heavy landing, the canopy will need to be removed to re-secure him.

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The final job is to glue the canopy down. I must admit, this particular part is very well made by Dynam, and it fitted perfectly in position. I used canopy glue to stick down the canopy all around the circumference, using elastic bands to keep it all in place during the lengthy drying period. The sticks are Ikea tea/coffee stirrers - very useful for clamping situations like this...

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Thanks for the info on the decals guys. I was moving other part finished projects to one side ready to start the Spit...then I put my back out last night moving furniture. I think it's just muscular but I am certainly not very mobile today so it's painkillers, hot water bottle nailed to my back and the most comfy chair I can find for a while! Just tropical that is.

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Don't know about that Steve! Even so, no. It is basically a duct designed on principles worked out by Professor Meredith at Farnborough, with the radiators, oil coolers or whatever is inside there depending on the Mark, set well back. I found one reference to a gauze mesh on one of the early development drawings, but that was about 1/3 of the way inside, so you're better off without it really. It is only when you look directly inside that you really see anything anyway, so personally I wouldn't be too bothered about it. The only element of mesh would be the radiator itself, unless you want to have a go at making those!

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Started on mine, demolished it. Sorry TWS but those awful little bobbles you spent time scraping off with a scalpel blade....came off in seconds with a flat needle (warding) file, smooth as a babies smooth part ready for paint. I did both wings in an hour!

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