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Model Workshop Stand


Lindsay Todd
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I have been asked a couple of times by friends to make to odd stand I use and since I was making another I though I would share.

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I find them really useful for all sorts of things from building, maintenance and even transportation so here's a photo build blog of what I use.

To start I build a base box frame , in this case using 3x1" pine timber but anything similar of course would work. I make this a sensible size to offer a good stable base but not such that it becomes awkward to handle so 700mm long by 350mm wide seems to work pretty well.

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I then simply screw the frames together suing a sguare I made up that I clamp to the inside doing one corner at a time.

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With the corner set flush I drill, countersink and screw the corner with the clamps in place.

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Its than a case of repeating on each corner to create the basic base frame

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Next job is to make the end cross braces, These are fixed to both the internal and external end faces of the frame and use an off cut spacer at the cross over and all screwed together. I start by measuring the angle and height of the cross member from the inside corner flush to the opposite side to a height of 340mm which will give a good stable size that can accommodate just about every size of model I have or likely to have.

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With the height marked I cut 4 pieces of 1x1.5" timber to size.

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I have not bother to cut a taper at the base but you could if you wished you just need to make sure both inner and outer are inset from the sides by the same amount.

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Using a scrap upright timber clamped to the frame edge the first crossover timber can be screwed to the end frame.

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We can then repeat for the second crossover inset by the same amount as the inner and screwed in place.

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A spacer piece is then inserted flush to the top of the cross over and screwed in place. Then repeat for the other side.

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Almost done, to add some strength now add a couple of stretches between the crossovers on the lower legs, keep these low so they don't impact on the likes of canopies etc when a model might be inverted.

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Finally I add pipe lagging tube and tie wrap in place.

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And there she is ready for use

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The angles come in really handy for installation and offers a really stable platform preventing scuffs and damage before your pride and joy ever leaves the workshop.

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hope some find that useful. Linds

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This is what I use:

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Get a banana box from Morrisons (or your supermarket of choice) notch the sides with a stanley knive and stick a bit of pipe lagging on.

Costs next to nowt, done in a few minutes. Takes a fuz and the other way on wings. It's very stable. I use it in the workshop, in the car to carry a fuz, at the field to help in assembly. When it's past it, knock up anew one.

Steve

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  • 1 year later...

Posted by Fatscoleymo on 24/12/2014 11:23:04:

This is what I use:

dscf1073.jpg

Get a banana box from Morrisons (or your supermarket of choice) notch the sides with a stanley knive and stick a bit of pipe lagging on.

Costs next to nowt, done in a few minutes. Takes a fuz and the other way on wings. It's very stable. I use it in the workshop, in the car to carry a fuz, at the field to help in assembly. When it's past it, knock up anew one.

Steve

Man after my own heart, use something that is cheap, easy to make, effective and easily replaced when damaged (like my models )

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Nice looking Chippy Jim. Nice colour scheme. What span is it? Powerplant?

I've done next to nowt on mine for over a year - funny how some builds just come to a halt. Construction is virtually finished and it's all glassed, but a lot of detail to go on and then painting...

I'll make a determined effort to finish it this coming winter......when we do, sometimes, get snow...

Staying cool...

Steve

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