Richard Duvall Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 Thanks Gaz, that looks like a neat solution. However, I can't see how I would be able to attach an arm to the rudder that could conveniently connet to the wheel beneath the fuselage. I think I would be able to utilise such a wheel in conjunction with my split rod. Good point about the shock absorbing; I will try and incorporate that in my linkage. As to adjustment after covering, I had in mind being able to do it at the operating ends. The risk of the link coming undone is low, especially if I superglue the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Elliott Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 it is a bracket which U shaped and slips up on the rudder ( glued and or screwed to fix) arms coming off it at 90 degrees to the rudder. the springs then attach the arms on the rudder to the arm on the wheel. . All the parts are in the package just not in the photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 Yes, I've now seen the bracket pictured in the version on the Als Hobbies website. Unfortunately, there is no way to fix the bracket to the rudder as there is a big chunk of the fuselage beneath it - see plan below. I think I will still be able to use one with a spring/ wire connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Elliott Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 dependant on the width of the fus under neath you could still use one as both rudder clamp and wheel have ars which stick out like servo arms. Many other types available I have a chippie. I got from whole sale planes . Word of warning ensure the under carriadge on the wings has secure mounting blocks. Mine folded in on first landing. On inspection the support/mounting block had glue on it but had been put in back to front and barely stuck to the rest of the frame. Oh well we fly and learn . Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 7, 2009 Author Share Posted February 7, 2009 Whatever the fus width the tailplane is there as well - I'm pretty sure there it no way of making a connection from the rudder to the tailwheel. On the question of the undercarriage mounting block, mine has a solid blocks of wood (beech I would guess) which have a groove for the undercarriage wire. I made sure they were well and truly glued in. In an earlier thread someone has recommended replacing the supplied u/c legs with oleos on the basis that they were too flexible. I haven't looked further into that yet and I expect that it would be easy enough to change later if I encounter problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Very easy. Either cut the legs off to leave mounting stubs or just bend up some replacements and keep the originals as spares. I only locked up the tailwheel relatively recently but have found it steers fine (on grass) - even in a stiff wind which was almost impossible with it castering. Your steerable scheme with the split pushrod works fine on a Hurricane that I've got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Godbeer Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Heres a picture of the Tail wheel i am using. I have glued it so it does not castor. It is a commerciallly available unit that comes with steerable links (i did not use any of that). I chose it as it has a near scale look & size. Also will be easier to maintain if neccesary. I am planning to use the supplied wire for the main u/c. Unless anyone knows where you can get oleos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 Seeing as you've shown me yours I'll show you mine! This is a bit of an evolution, hence the rather poor finishing - the original scale support block broke (although I've just remembered from the plan extract above that it was something I added myself at the build stage) so I made a replacement to go over the existing piano wire - hence the aluminium U plate to stop the slot (end filled after assembly) splitting out. The bar over the horizontal cranked bit is held by 2 screws covered in silicon tube which allows slight movement to enhance steering with the essentially fixed tailwheel - a field mod. when flying at our German "twinned" club's annual display in a vicious crosswind was (a) nearly impossible and (b) potentially extremely embarrassing with the fully castering wheel! The oleos were standard items from (I think) Ripmax and weren't more than about £20 for the pair (2003) unfortunately I can't see them on the Ripmax or Perkins websites but a model shop might be able to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Thanks for th info on tail wheels. I'll probably go with one like that connected to my split rod which I will exit at the bottom of the fuselage. A bit more progress to report. The two fuselage sides are now joined together and the sheeting around the cockpits fitted. Next step is to fit the tank box/ engine mount which I have already assembled. Made sure it fits snuggly in the front hole in the fuselage before joining it up. I'm very impressedhow solid the fuselage feels even at this incomplete stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris C Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Tank box/ engine mount is now fitted along with some further fuselage sheeting. I probably need to give some thought to the plumbing and wiring requirements before I go too much further as there's little mention of it in the instructions. I fuel proofed the inside of the box before installing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 15, 2009 Author Share Posted February 15, 2009 Now attached the wing mounting plate to the fuselage. Instructions said to drill 6mm holes, for the dowels, through F2 using the holes in the plate as a guide. However, there is not enough space to get any sort of drilling device so I resorted to turning the drill bit with finger & thumb - hard work but got there in the end. Next step to fit the corresponding plate and dowels to the wing. Even in my limited experience I realise the importance of precise alignment in this joint so am taking great care to ensure that wing fits squarely. I've shaped the wing seats using the template from the plan but they will need to little fine adjustment to get a perfect fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 First time I've tried adding a YouTube video and my text disappeared! I've come across this video taken on the day that I had to lock the tailwheel in order to fly in a nasty crosswind without undue embarrassment! Unfortunately it doesn't show the taxi out but you can gauge the crosswind from the turbulence encountered on the approach from buildings, tents etc. that were behind the flightline. Also, I think you'll see that the performance on a 52 FS (empty weight 8lbs) is adequate so your 70 will have bags of power in reserve. I hope the video will inspire you to even greater efforts to finish yours...it's a rewarding model to fly and viceless in its handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 17, 2009 Author Share Posted February 17, 2009 Thanks Martin, I'm suitably inspired! The performance of the Chipmunk looked excellent and, as you say, my 70 should give loads of power - if I can fit it in which I am nearly ready to do. My new tailwheel arrived today so I can press on with its linkage and complete the rear fuselage. Just need to sort out the fit of the wing to the fuselage as it doesn't want to sit properly at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Blimey, it's beginiing to look like a plane! Had a little difficulty in getting the wings aligned correctly as I found that a couple of the fuselage ribs were not spot on, but I think I've sorted it. Please excuse the flapping wing tips but I need a new green LED for the nav lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Any reason why you've chosen to sheet the wings fully? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I didn't fancy a flimsy plastic film finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Fair enough and I doubt there's that much extra weight. The only drawback is losing the outline of the ribs but you won't notice that from more than 10 feet away. I must say that I wouldn't really call Solartex (or Profilm) flimsy materials but if your experience is with some of the lesser coverings I can understand your reluctance. I haven't used Poly C but I assume it's water based like the Falcon acrylic varnish that I've used at various times. If so, I'd strongly recommend a coat of sanding sealer before applying the Poly C to the sheeting as you're likely to get warping and distortion if you don't. Keep the first coat as light as possible as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 I've no experience of Solartex but my aversion to film comes from my ARTF trainer which seems to suffer punctures and tears by blinking at it! Thanks for the tip about sealing before using Poly-C (yes it is water based). I had already picked that one up earlier and applied the stinky sanding sealer first to the parts I have already "glassed". The wings already have a few coats of Poly-C, I've been really impressed how easy Poly-C is to apply to the glass cloth and the brush washes in water. I've not used epoxy but I can imagine that it's very messy to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Stinky sanding sealer? You've let me down here - I have long had a theory that one of the major differences between men and women is that real men love the smell of dope and women hate it! I'm sure you'd find Solartex and Profilm to be a revelation if you get a chance to use either. What are you planning to cover the rudder and elevators with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 Rudder and elevators are already sheeted and Poly-C 'd! Not far off the time to attach them so one of the next photos should show them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinesespaceman_ Posted March 8, 2009 Share Posted March 8, 2009 Hi Richard, Any progress lately? I've just got my wing ready for glassing, covering and painting. Have covered the control surfaces in solartex. Will post some photos next weekend Cheers Gavin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Duvall Posted March 8, 2009 Author Share Posted March 8, 2009 Gavin, I've just come back from holiday, getting a bit of winter sun, so not a lot of progress lately. My wing is glassed (Poly-C) but needs a few more coats to get the required finish. I've fitted the end caps complete with navigation lights - I'm not madly keen on the fit so will need to smooth the joints with some filler. I've finished covering the fuselage, including the shaping of the top and bottom blocks (a lot of carving and sanding). I'm now trying to make my mind up whether to glass it at this stage to make it more robust for further handling. I think I'm still on course for a maiden flight in the spring. Will post some more photos soon. Are you the same Gavin previously posting under the name "Chinesespaceman"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Lee Posted March 12, 2009 Share Posted March 12, 2009 Hi Richard I found your chipmunk post the other day with interest as I am at the glassing stage myself with this model. I started building at the start of January being commissioned to build this for an ex Navy Chipmunk Trainer Pilot. I have posted a number of photos for you to look at any questions please ask. I am useing a FS 61 ASP and with a straight and bend connector on the exhaust it comes out where it should (bottom right of cowling) The Navy colours are satin silver, satin red, and matt black over a grey primer from Klass Kote all will be sprayed and decals. Regards Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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