Andy Butler Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Having read the article on the Apollo 91 V tail electric glider, I bought the plan. I have built from plans previously but there a couple of things that have got me thinking. Has anyone else built one yet? The centre rib is shown as being 50mm - I have never seen a centre section rib made from block, usually a couple of normal ribs and sheeting. Or am I barking up completely the wrong tree? Second question is where to get 10mm and 3mm carbon tubes from without having to re-mortgage the house. Also, can anybody recommend a suitable brushless set up rather than use a brushed 600? All help appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 You will obviously have to modify the fixing and motor mount abit, but I would suggest an outrunner will be better than an inrunner heres a real cheapy 25A job which will swing a 9 X 5 prop on 3s Lipo and should give around 250Watts +. If the model is less than 4lbs ( which it will be ) than this should be fine for glider model. Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 01/07/2009 13:10:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Andy, by co-incidence I spoke to Pete Kessell (designer) yesterday and he mentioned the tail seat. The plan was published a few years ago now but apparently there was an error which should have been corrected since. The tail seat should be parallel with the bottom of the fus and not angled. In other words no positive incidence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Butler Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Very many thanks for the replies - good to know about the tail incidence David. Looking at the motor, if I use a 3S Lipo, and the motor is pulling say 300 Watts then if memory serves that's 300(Watts) / 11.1 (Volts) = 27A. So a 30A ESC would be adequate - or not? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 Just about .... although I usually like a bit more headroom. However the figures are not quite right. A 3s Lipo will only hold around 10.5 V under load. Motors dont "pull" watts they pull current. The current draw will decrease in the air as the prop unloads. Its current that kills motors and ESCs not watts. This is really where the advice to use wattmeter is normally given Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 01/07/2009 17:47:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Butler Posted July 3, 2009 Author Share Posted July 3, 2009 I've found the required carbon tubes on Micron R/C and a website called MUGI. At around £35 for the tubes and £65 for the motor/ESC/Lipo combination this isn't going to be a cheap build. I haven't had a V Tail since an old Vertex sloper many years ago. Timbo - point taken about a Wattmeter, can you recommend one? Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 I have an asrtro flight "Whattmeter" which was about 70 quid when I bought it a few years back... similar items are available these days from the likes of BRC and Puffin etc, for about £40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 3, 2009 Share Posted July 3, 2009 £65 for the powertrain ?? The motor I suggested earlier is about £7, heres a speedo for another £9 and a battery for £19 Thats approx £35 and providing you keep the current down to below 25A by selecting the right prop - maybe 9 X 4 or 9 X 5 or so - all this lot will be fine. I would suggest maybe propping to give about 20A ...which on a 3s Lipo will be about 200Watts +. Edited By Timbo - Moderator on 03/07/2009 17:24:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Butler Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 I've just seen on another thread a BRC A2814-6 outrunner that will produce 300 Watts for under £20. Or is that overkill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 I dont know how many other options you are going to keeping asking about here Andy. I have already posted 4 times on your thread, including a motor at £7 and a whole package at around half the price you said it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnor Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Don't know about £35 for the pair of c/f tubes..........a helpful chap at www.mugi.co.uk has just told me that the two, plus protective packing and first class delivery in the UK, will cost about £16. No second mortgage there. ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnor Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Can someone tell me please........is the Apollo wing a one piece, two piece or three piece set up? Not clear from the Kessell write up. Can I get it into the Smart car, or do I have to use the Rolls estate? Happy Christmas everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey mundell Posted May 2, 2013 Share Posted May 2, 2013 Can somebody please confirm if the Apollo has two piece wing. regards Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnor Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 Three piece..if you click on the topmost Apollo posting above you can see the build article which says all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey mundell Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 many thanks for your reply,the build artical says nothing about 3piece wing regards Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnor Posted May 3, 2013 Share Posted May 3, 2013 My pleasure.......while the article doesn't specifically mention it....the tips are joined by wire. If you want to glue it all up you'll end up with a very long wing.......so, use removable wire joiners, with a bit of tape for security, and you've got an easily transportable three piece wing --- right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffrey mundell Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 To any person thinking about building this model and using latest outrunner motors and lipos i would suggest lenghting the nose by 1.5" or 2" this will get over the problem of adding large amounts of lead to get correct CofG. I am just starting to build this model and will lenghten the nose foward of F2 by 2" carbon fiber 10mm and 3mm i have found the Balsa Cabin shop, www.balsacabin.co.uk to be about the cheapest,request their catalogue,i use them via post for balsa as well,super service from them. regards Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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