Jump to content
Please be aware of scammers when using the Sale/Wanted forum areas

Nik Harrison

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    324

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Nik Harrison

  1. Nik Harrison
    Yes please.
  2. Nik Harrison
    I use a couple of these. They do work and are cheap. https://www.lakeland.co.uk/24627/Lakeland-Moisture-Trap Cheers, Nik
  3. Nik Harrison
    Yes please.
  4. Nik Harrison
    Yes please.
  5. Nik Harrison
    Yes please.
  6. Nik Harrison
    Why is my subscription terminated? I have a direct debit set up and have been receiving RCM&E for some years. Now I try to initiate a new subscription and it tells me my email is invalid. I can still log on and make a posting so what is going on!
  7. Nik Harrison
    Yes please.
  8. Nik Harrison
    Count me in please.
  9. Nik Harrison
    Dave, Will you be posting on the arduino forum? Nik
  10. Nik Harrison
    Well I've ordered a couple to play with. Should be fun! Cheers, Nik
  11. Nik Harrison
    Still awaiting mine! What is going on.
  12. Nik Harrison
    Not sure what you mean about "retract unit strength" as any retract setup must be able to survive such landing forces. The unit above "locked" in both up and down positions. If there was any weakness it was in the wire strut. The 110 was 11lbs and the wire legs were amenable to being straightened when required. Enjoyed your video though. Cheers.
  13. Nik Harrison
    I had a similar problem getting retracts for my build of the Brian Taylor Bf-110. It required 110 deg rotation to park the large wheels in the nacelle. I ended up making my own from Robart air cylinders with a little help from a friend who made the metal actuation block. Used Coral Draw to get the dimension correct and only used metal were it was essential. Worked a treat as air up/air down retracts. The only reason I can show these pictures is because I stalled the 110 last week on landing and destroyed the model. My own fault but it was 15 years old.
  14. Nik Harrison

    Nik Harrison posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  15. Nik Harrison

    Nik Harrison posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. Nik Harrison

    Nik Harrison posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  17. Nik Harrison
    TonyS, Sorry to hear about your father-in-law and hope it all works out OK. I have done a few experiments with my own set ups to check I'm making sense. PeterF is correct that the signal 0v is connected to the LiPo 0v internally on each ESC. I double checked on some of my own ESCs. My fault sorry. Back to trying to work out what is wrong. To double check that the 0v connections are as they should be could you check a few points with a Digital Multi Meter (DMM). If you haven't got one they are not expensive and extremely useful. 1. Check continuity between A and B, then between A and C. 2. Check the signal connection (white) between A and each ESC. 3. If it is still not working try changing which ESC supplies the power. i.e. from 3 to 4. This should prove whether ESC 1 & 4 work. Maybe with ESC 2 & 3 disconnected. I tried an experiment where I powered up an Rx then powered up the ESC to emulate your original ESC setup which powered 1 & 4 last. It powered up and worked OK. Hope this at least gives you some ideas where to look. Cheers, Nik
  18. Nik Harrison

    Nik Harrison posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  19. Nik Harrison
    TonyS, I'll get a drawing together tomorrow and post it. How is the problem with the undercarriage going? Cheers, Nik
  20. Nik Harrison
    TonyS, I was looking over previous posts on this problem. Namely your post of 31/08/20 in which you showed the circuit you were using. The problem is the 0V connection. You do not have any 0V connection between the two LiPo batteries therefore each pair of ECSs are using a different reference. This means the second battery supplied ESCs do not understand the signals given to them, so do not respond. Install an 0v connection between the LiPo leads and I'm sure things will improve. This does not have to be a high current cable as high current should not be going down it. Martin, Having followed your Concorde build I'm still waiting to see air underneath it! Don't disappoint me. Lol. Cheers, Nik
  21. Nik Harrison
    TonyS, Sorry to hear it has not worked out. My suggestion would be to simplify the problem by working through each one in turn. 1. Remove the throttle channel, which is your power supply at present, and use an alternative power source. Spare AA battery pack for example. 2. Remove all servo leads except the undercart channel. Find out why the undercart set up is not working. Check each leg individually - using a servo tester? 3. Build up to driving all three legs and see what happens. 4. Once the legs are sorted start adding more channels and check channels work as you go along. 5. Finally add your motors one at a time while still using the external power supply. Make written notes as you go along so you can remember what worked and what didn't. It's too easy to forget what you have/have not tried. I find that when you feel like binning the whole thing it is time to start as simple as possible. Fix one problem at a time and you may find that things start to fit into place and other stuff starts to work. Don't give up. Nik PS  Forgot to add that if using both external supply and trying to run motors from your Lipos then you must remember to have a common 0V connection between them. Edited By Nik Harrison on 24/09/2020 19:15:07
  22. Nik Harrison
    Martin, The opamp setup I used is a unity gain arrangement. It acts as a current amplifier not voltage. 3V in will give 3V out but the current drive is increased. If you want to increase the voltage then a couple of resistors are required. See diagram. If you decide to use it as a voltage amp then you also get the benefit of the current drive increase, so win/win. Cheers, Nik
  23. Nik Harrison

    Nik Harrison posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  24. Nik Harrison
    Martin, Having looked at the drawings as shown it is difficult to see the opamp name. It is a TS358, only because I had these in my spares box. Any 5v operating opamp will do. The package I used was a DIL 8pin device. Cheers, Nik
  25. Nik Harrison
    Martin, No problem. The only reason I did not include the drawings before is that not many seem to be used to using a soldering iron these days. Have fun. Craig, I'm sure this would solve your gear problem. Cheers, Nik
×
×
  • Create New...