EvilC57

Hi Jonah, for wing type Elevon (and tail type set to Normal) with a DX8 you would usually plug the right elevon into Ch2 at the receiver, and the left into Ch3. You should be able to see whether the transmitter is sending the right outputs by going into the monitor (press the scroll wheel and scroll down to Monitor in the menu). This should show Ch2 & Ch3 markers both moving in the same direction together when wiggling the aileron joystick left & right, and show the Ch2 & Ch3 markers moving in opposite directions when moving the same stick (assuming you’re on Mode 2) up and down.

My modelling workshop is a lightly insulated 10x6ft garden type wooden shed. I find that two 120W tube heaters keep the inside at +2 or +3°C even when it’s -5°C outside (so paint, glue etc. doesn’t freeze). The only problem in recent years has been that with increased energy costs, I’ve been reluctant to put them on - moving some things indoors instead when it’s really cold.

Thanks! Yep, they have a real presence in the air, despite only being small. Mine’s so old it was originally fitted with NiCads, but it was transformed by modifying it for a (1600mAh 3S) lipo some years ago.

Interesting paint job Simon! I assume like mine, your wings are carved from a piece of 1/4” solid balsa sheet. I built mine in 2005, and I still fly it regularly now some 19 years later, although it did have a complete new nose grafted on following a terrible hand launch and subsequent crash about 3 years ago. Yep, they go well don’t they (mine has a Mega 16/15/4 and an APC 6X4 for propulsion).

I have a couple of tubular heaters similar to this, mounted low down on the side walls of my modelling shed.

Actually I’ve just remembered I built (I think) this version of the Colibri back in about 2008, but can’t remember what happened to either the model or the plan. If I manage to find the plan, or the associated article I’ll come back to you with the info…

If no one comes forward with a plan, maybe give this CG calculator a go for the CofG.

I used some on a new EDF foamie jet recently. Can’t say I was over impressed. I know they suggest that you give the surface a light sanding before coating with Foam Armour, however I was reluctant to do this in some areas as much of the finish on the model is in the form of large decals which I was afraid would be marked by sanding, as a result the product has been prone to peeling off in places. I’ve also discovered that if the finished surface becomes wet (in rain etc.) it ‘reactivates’, in other words it turns white and appears as it did during the initial drying after application - although it does go clear again once it dries out.

Quite right, it’s a rule. King Charles is a ruler!

When I was 14 or 15 in around 1971/72 we had a forge in our metalwork room in school. We used to be taught how to bash pieces of red hot steel into pokers etc. on an anvil. I can remember being chased around the room by the school bully waving a piece of red hot metal at me. I assume kids today aren’t allowed to do that any more - either bash hot metal, or wave it around at the other kids!