EvilC57

Hi Jonah, for wing type Elevon (and tail type set to Normal) with a DX8 you would usually plug the right elevon into Ch2 at the receiver, and the left into Ch3. You should be able to see whether the transmitter is sending the right outputs by going into the monitor (press the scroll wheel and scroll down to Monitor in the menu). This should show Ch2 & Ch3 markers both moving in the same direction together when wiggling the aileron joystick left & right, and show the Ch2 & Ch3 markers moving in opposite directions when moving the same stick (assuming you’re on Mode 2) up and down.

My modelling workshop is a lightly insulated 10x6ft garden type wooden shed. I find that two 120W tube heaters keep the inside at +2 or +3°C even when it’s -5°C outside (so paint, glue etc. doesn’t freeze). The only problem in recent years has been that with increased energy costs, I’ve been reluctant to put them on - moving some things indoors instead when it’s really cold.

Thanks! Yep, they have a real presence in the air, despite only being small. Mine’s so old it was originally fitted with NiCads, but it was transformed by modifying it for a (1600mAh 3S) lipo some years ago.

Interesting paint job Simon! I assume like mine, your wings are carved from a piece of 1/4” solid balsa sheet. I built mine in 2005, and I still fly it regularly now some 19 years later, although it did have a complete new nose grafted on following a terrible hand launch and subsequent crash about 3 years ago. Yep, they go well don’t they (mine has a Mega 16/15/4 and an APC 6X4 for propulsion).

I have a couple of tubular heaters similar to this, mounted low down on the side walls of my modelling shed.

Actually I’ve just remembered I built (I think) this version of the Colibri back in about 2008, but can’t remember what happened to either the model or the plan. If I manage to find the plan, or the associated article I’ll come back to you with the info…

If no one comes forward with a plan, maybe give this CG calculator a go for the CofG.

I used some on a new EDF foamie jet recently. Can’t say I was over impressed. I know they suggest that you give the surface a light sanding before coating with Foam Armour, however I was reluctant to do this in some areas as much of the finish on the model is in the form of large decals which I was afraid would be marked by sanding, as a result the product has been prone to peeling off in places. I’ve also discovered that if the finished surface becomes wet (in rain etc.) it ‘reactivates’, in other words it turns white and appears as it did during the initial drying after application - although it does go clear again once it dries out.

Quite right, it’s a rule. King Charles is a ruler!

When I was 14 or 15 in around 1971/72 we had a forge in our metalwork room in school. We used to be taught how to bash pieces of red hot steel into pokers etc. on an anvil. I can remember being chased around the room by the school bully waving a piece of red hot metal at me. I assume kids today aren’t allowed to do that any more - either bash hot metal, or wave it around at the other kids!

Never had a problem with the bed being bumpy with my Ender 3 V2. It’s a flat piece of glass with some kind of (I believe) carborundum coating. I do however have continual problem with the bed levelling drifting up and down, and have to do a manual levelling exercise before nearly every print.

What is a Bisley alarm mine? I’ve never seen or heard of it before.

Thanks for the interesting discussions after my OP chaps, most informative.

I assembled and setup an ARTF EDF jet recently, and noticed that the while the instructions gave suggested movements for ailerons, elevators and rudder, they said nothing about the flaps (which the model also has). So as I’ve done before, I just set them for full up, a mid half extended position, and what seemed like a reasonable fully down position. And the model has flown and landed OK since. I was just watching full size jets landing on Big Jet TV during an idle 10 minutes while having a cup of tea, and it occurred to me that rather than setting flaps to an arbitrary down position, presumably aircraft designers extend the flaps to the ‘right’ amount. So how? Is there a formula or rule of thumb? I can’t believe they do it empirically.

There was a similar question some time ago on this forum regarding setup for twin throttles. I wrote a response here, which described a setup someone gave me for a mix for a Spektrum DX8 which allows differential control of two throttles using the throttle stick for one (engine), and the Aux 3 knob for the other by mixing the throttle to Aux 3, and Aux 3 back to the throttle. I don’t know whether it may be possible to adapt this by mixing the throttle to rudder (and back again) to get the effect you’re trying to achieve.

Ordered some Gaoneng lipos from HobbyRC late yesterday afternoon (Friday). Arrived by DPD around 11:00am this morning (Saturday). That’s pretty good going I’d say.

Reminds me of this one… After every flight, Qantas pilots fill out a form, called a "gripesheet," which tells mechanics about problems with the aircraft. The mechanics correct & inspect the problems, document their repairs on the form, and then pilots review the gripe sheets before the next flight. Never let it be said that ground crews lack a sense of humor. Here are some actual maintenance complaints submitted by Qantas' pilots (marked with a P) and the solutions recorded (marked with an S) by maintenance engineers. By the way, Qantas is the only major airline that has never, ever, had an accident. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement. S: Almost replaced left inside main tire. P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough. S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft. P: Something loose in cockpit. S: Something tightened in cockpit. P: Dead bugs on windshield. S: Live bugs on back-order. P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent. S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground. P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear. S: Evidence removed. P: DME volume unbelievably loud. S: DME volume set to more believable level. P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick. S: That's what friction locks are for. P: IFF inoperative in OFF mode. S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode. P: Suspected crack in windshield. S: Suspect you're right. P: Number 3 engine missing. S: Engine found on right wing after brief search. P: Aircraft handles funny. (I love this one!) S: Aircraft warned to: straighten up, fly right, and be serious. P: Target radar hums. S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics. P: Mouse in cockpit. S: Cat installed. And the best one for last.................. P: Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds like a midget pounding on something with a hammer. S: Took hammer away from midget

No they're inverted. Both start easily and run OK, although as I say, the dripping one is much older (judging by the serial number), bought cheap in a bereavement sale. As you say JD8, I suspect the gungy fuel/oil that's dripping out, has bypassed the piston while it was running, although the compression seems OK. I have a spare 58-CD, maybe it's time to ditch this engine and fit the spare...