EvilC57

Another vote for GNB lipos here 👍.

It was a black bin bag job. Although (as with other rapid unscheduled disassemblies I’ve had) it was stripped of any functional servos etc.., which are quite possibly still flying around in some of my other models.

My Pushy Cat in 2021, following a bad hand launch. Fuselage cut off forward of the wing leading edges, while carefully retaining the ply doubler, new fuselage and nose section built from the original plans and grafted on. Then covered using some of the yellow Profilm from the original build in 2005 (not shown), and flown again numerous times since.

It WAS a Seagull Models Harmon Rocket. The result of turning to go downwind too low and too slow. Repaired? What do you think?! f

I had a speed flea. A nice idea, but the display was completely unreadable in sunlight, and it packed up completely last year (completely dead), so I binned it and bought an Altis GPS 2 instead. The speed flea seemed to give reasonably consistent results while it worked, but I found that you had to be careful to power up the model first, and then attach the flea to the lipo balance lead afterwards, otherwise the glitch caused by powering up the model would corrupt the unit and make it just display an error, or totally incorrect reading. Either that or you could run it from a small 2S lipo separately.

Sorry to hear that Bruce, my own father died of prostate cancer. There is a thread on this forum dedicated to this subject here.

I understand those lipo bags are not particularly effective at retaining a fire. I charge my batteries in one of these Bat-Safe boxes. On a metal trolley out in the garage, under a smoke alarm.

There’s hardly any other food content either, just loads of wasteful plastic packaging. I’m amazed they haven’t been banned.

In the summer of 1962 when I was five years old, we went to stay in a holiday park near Falmouth. The old boy who ran the place used to take groups of small children tearing around the park completely unsecured in the back of his open topped sports car (maybe someone can tell me what it was). I think that’s me, second from the right in the back row. Can you IMAGINE what health & safety would have to say about that now!

I’ve had an Ender 3 V2 for the best part of 3 years now, and not having the CR touch auto levelling, despite adding the silicone rubber bed mounting donut mod a few months ago, I’m forever having to tweak the levelling between prints. If (when) I change, it’ll be a Bambu P1 or maybe an A1. As others have said, Bambus just work.

Thinking of low sportcars, a friend of mine wouldn't mind me telling you about something that happened to him back in the 1980s. He had a Caterham 7 (which he'd built himself), and was in town one afternoon in the summer, with the top down. As he was slowing down approaching a red traffic light, he spotted a gorgeous girl walking past in a little tiny mini skirt, with legs up to her armpits. Distracted by this vision of loveliness, he drove into the back of the saloon car in front. He says he saw the chap look back in his mirror, but from the quizzical look on his face, he obviously couldn't see what had hit him as his view went straight over the top of the low Caterham. Anyway, apparently when he got out and went back to see what had hit him, he looked down at my friend, and his first words to him were "You saw her too then did you?"!

In my experience UHU Por has a tendancy to go brown after a few years if used on joints that are exposed to sunlight. Canopy glue always just looks like watered down PVA to me (although I could be wrong!).

Might be worth trying Foam Armour from Deluxe Materials.

It seems I never got around to including any photos of my strengthening mod using CF strips in my earlier ‘Structural Failure Warning’ post. So here’s one now (below the 3D CAD drawing proposal from the original thread): The red slice shows the approximate area of the previous structural failure. Grey shows the additional 5mm x 1mm CF strips. The real thing: I guess incorporating CF strips or any other internal reinforcement isn’t so easy to do in the rear part of a fuselage though, where you have no internal access once it’s assembled 🤔.

Unfortunately this is a familiar story to me. See my original post here 😐.

Have a link? (It’s ‘Bambu’ by the way 😉).

I fix them in with a couple of beads of hot melt glue on foamies. Then with my small heat gun set to 100°C, I can easily remove them without damaging either the foam or servo.

I am, after nearly 3 years. Although I must admit I’m just looking for an excuse to change my Ender 3 V2 for a Bambu P1S!

If you’re referring to the silicone rubber spring substitutes Richard, yes they did improve things, but the bed still drifts around sometimes. I’m just careful to do a manual levelling exercise before I start a print run.

I found Tinkercad to be a good place to start in 3D CAD to produce .STL files for slicing & printing. I graduated to the free version of Fusion 360 after a while, but I’ve found that to be a much steeper learning curve.

These days I follow Martin Lewis and Which Magazine’s suggestions of getting on the insurance comparison websites and renewing 23 days before it’s due. Their analysis has shown this to be the cheapest time, and those who wait right until the latest possible moment to renew pay more. The insurance with LV on Mrs E’s Mini is due in early January. I had the renewal quote through from LV a few weeks ago, got on the comparison sites, and saved £30 on the original quote by just renewing with the same company 23 days before it’s due.

Or even a backing singer 😀!

Sounds like a phased array antenna. More commonly used to electronically steer a radar beam in systems where the scanner remains static, and only the beam moves. But working in reverse here to electronically steer the sensitivity of the receiving antenna. Think RAF Fylingdales