Bert

SH1   Any sign making shop will have Correx.   They will cut off what ever you want.   Bert

Phil Smith   Ron Moulton   Bert

Posted by Gary Murphy 1 on 07/06/2011 23:42:31: I will not be caught again : )   Don't worry about it GM1, it's all part of the building process. You should be proud of yourself for not giving up.   I've been wasting balsa for nearly 60 years now and almost every build I do has some deviation from the charted course.   That's one of the good things about working in wood, anything that goes a bit awry is only an inconvenience, not a disaster.   Bert

GM1   I have just checked my Pinto and the dihedral is 1.5 inches under each wingtip but a little each way won't hurt.   BertEdited By Bert on 07/06/2011 19:28:23

GM1   I set up the wing at the correct dihedral with the root resting on a cutting mat (you could use thick card or plywood.)   Then I get my Permagrit sanding block (you could use a piece of wood with sandpaper glued to it.)   Then gently rub the sanding block bacwards and forwards whilst holdong the wing root in position. The cutting mat keeps it straight.   HTH Bert

GM1   I would suggest that you do it slightly differently to that.   The method Martin describes is perfectly OK but (IMO) requires a bit of dexterity which takes time to aquire.   If you can wait until this evening when I get home from work I will post a picture of a fool-proof way of doing it. (so far it's been proof against this old fool anyway)   Bert

GM1   About 1 1/2 inches a side is about right. If you can wait until tomorrow night I can check my Pinto. I can also post a picture of how to sand the ribs.   The Pinto flies perfectly well with the dihedral, the rolls are fine.   Bert

GM1   The best way to build straight fuselages is to get a SLEC Jig   This is one of the best thing I ever bought      Edited By Bert on 05/06/2011 16:37:45

It's a shame he's not still writing!   'Straight and Level' was always the first thing I read when I got the mag.    

TR 2   You could try this chap, he has taken over from John D Haytree.   John Walton Motorvation Model Engines 10 Lansdowne House Lansdowne Road Leicester   070 5015 6965   [email protected]    

Solite is a thinner version of Solarfilm - about half the weight.   It gives little or no strength to the airframe.   Product Chart

My Pinto has flown extensively for more than three years and the lack of leading edge sheeting has not so far been a problem.   I covered it with Solarfilm Solite.   it doesn't need beefing up.   Bert

GM1   The servo attachment is the top sheeting. If you glue a small piece of thin ply under the sheeting you can screw the servo screws into it.   It doesn't need to be massively strong   .I glued some sheet between the ribs and the spar and the trailing edge   The Pinto is a fun to fly and handles the wind very well.   Here's some more photos of my Pinto if it helps.   Bert   Edited By Bert on 21/05/2011 17:32:32

GM1   My Pinto has the centre section sheeted top and bottom - I've just looked..   I don't know what the plans and instructions say because I don't think I still have them.   I put two servos for the ailerons upright in the wings.- I extended the sheeting a bit       BertEdited By Bert on 21/05/2011 13:44:38

'Timing' is the delay between the ESC receiving the signal from the back EMF and applying the current to the appropriate winding.   'Hard Timing' = short delay   'Soft Timing' = long delay   Bert

  There's some stuff Here   Go down to the bottom   Enjoy!   BertEdited By Bert on 24/03/2011 06:59:25

Mmmmmmm...  

Martyn   Good motors those Super Tigres, before I went electric I had quite a few of them. I think I've still got a .29 and a .45 somewhere in the loft. I sold off the rest.   His son Dave is a nice chap.   BertEdited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 22/03/2011 16:06:43

  Supre Tigre production went to China when Mick Wilshire was the importer. He said the quality was better.   Bert

Martyn   You could try Dave Wilshere at Motors and Rotors. His father, the enigmatic Mick Wilshere was for many years' the UK importer for Super Tigre engines. (when they were made in Italy)   Bert

Posted by Slopetrashuk on 15/03/2011 12:02:23: Posted by MarkyMarc on 15/03/2011 09:57:47:   One final rant. Will Andy Ellison please stop gushing about dynamic soaring speed records. Probably only him and the the three people who have the hallowed model design in this country are bothered.   No.   Andy   Good! because I'm interested   Bert

Posted by John Stephenson 2 on 24/02/2011 19:16:57: The fuselage sides went together OK. I could do with a bit more advice please. There is no mention on the plan regarding mounting the engine with side and down thrust. Is this necessary with a model of this size?       If you are going to use a commercial engine mount you can put the side and down thrust in later when you find out how much you need.   Models of this type usually have too much wing incidence and climb like homesick angels on power. If this happens you could add some packing to the TE.   Don't forget you will have the controls to handle any initial out-of-trim situation.   Posted by John Stephenson 2 on 24/02/2011 19:16:57:   Also, the two props, which the model shop sent with the engine, have 1/4" holes and the engine shaft is 5mm. Is it normal to have to bush or sleeve the propellor mounting holes to fit smaller engines and are these bushes available from model shops?   You sometimes need to ream out the holes or if they are too big you can get away with winding adhesive tape around the prop shaft.   Posted by John Stephenson 2 on 24/02/2011 19:16:57: And another question although off topic. If I use a pic from my album in a post and then delete the album pic, is it normal for that pic to disappear from the post? That's what happened to an earlier post I made with an attachment!!   That will happen because (as I understand it) the link in the post looks for the photo in your album Bert

I have used Solarfilm on two diesel models in the past, one was an SAS Blob with an Oliver Tiger MkIII on the front.   The other was a small aerobatic jobbie with a PAW 1.5 which I still have, although I no longer fly it .   Both models were flown a lot over a few years with no apparent problem. The Solarfilm is intact on the one I still have.   Maybe they have changed the formulation of Solarfilm? These models were built and flown in the last century. You could try a piece to see what happens.   I used Solartex on a Sharkface with a 1cc ball-raced PAW but it got very grimey after a couple of years' use, and I threw it out in the end.   Bert

Tim   Got your PM OK   Solarfilm is OK for diesels,   I have used Solartex with diesels but it needs sealing with Clearcoat and cleaning off after every session otherwise it gets really grubby. Most diesel fuels are castor-based which doesn't help.   Bert

Tony   For joins and cracks I use builder's PVA (from B&Q) with microballoons mixed up to a stiff paste.   It weighs little, sticks well (obviously), costs hardly anything and sands beautifully.   If it is a biggish area on balsa, I sand a flat on it and glue some more balsa on (PVA) and sand it down to match.   Bert