Jeff-C

Hi everyone. I'm running slightly behind on my reading of my magazine subscription due to working abroad for a period of time. Lots of lovely grey magazine packages waiting to be open. Anyway, I've been desperately searching for a copy or back issue of this magazine, and it's not available anywhere! And I've spent 2 days searching the Internet. Does anyone know were I can get a copy?

An article popped up on the main yahoo worldwide page today showing footage of the London blackout on the 25th Nov 2016 over piccadilly circus. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDc9o-cxH3o Whilst the footage is very nice, something needs to be thought about. This area of London is classed as London TMA, and is designated Class A restricted from surface up. Further to that, there are restrictions on locations and built up areas of flying 'drone' and multi rotors. Finally, if this footage is being used by a news channel or is creating any form of revenue, then I suppose technically the footage is being used for a commercial gain, and that would mean the pilot would have to be licensed as the regulations set out by the CAA? https://uk.news.yahoo.com/central-london-blackout-plunges-picadilly-235931829.html So, what are your thoughts? Edited By Jeff-C on 27/11/2016 18:49:16 Edited By Jeff-C on 27/11/2016 18:49:48

I seem to remember seeing a NOTAM for Red Arrows transit. It might have been because they were operating around London en route from one airshow to another. I have a feeling it may be because they operate low and fast through VFR and Class G airspace. I have not really paid much attention recently, but the likes of Obama and Air Force One are NOTAM for airport closures and movement restrictions. He has a moving airspace restriction around him.

The funny thing about the Mick Reeves website is that the picture of Jim looks like one you would see on the BBC Programme Watchdog in the 'Rouge Traders' sections or Cowboy Builders! (I am not suggesting that Jim is or anything, it just made me chuckle with the half built wall behind him). It is so true that the purpose of a website is to transmit information. If you webspace does not do that, then your are putting yourself on a back back foot before you even start. The internet is a huge place, and unless your target customer is someone who knows you are there and is shopping for your product only, a poor website will make someone assume a poor product. Maybe a wrong association, but presentation forms 90% of first impression.

Hi Boeing Pilot. The model looks really nice, and I hope your venture gets up and running. Can I make a suggestion with regards to your website. I might do with a little tweaking and smartening up, and one thing that you might want to look at is the colour clashes. The dark blue writing with grey background is really hard to read and actually causes a little eyes strain. Black is a really bad colour background to use.

China does totally shut down over the new year. In general, I am pretty happy with HK. I have had a large number of orders, and a relatively small number of issues. All of which have been corrected with minimal fuss or delay.........apart from my current one. I ordered a surface TX 3 CH for my glow car. It arrived but was faulty - Back to the UK warehouse for warrantee it went, and a few days later I got an email saying they were sending a replacement from Hong Kong. Then the LiPo freeze on shipping happened and my parcel was delayed for an unknown period of time. Almost 2 months later it got shipped ChinaPost. The parcel didn't arrived after 36 days, and apparently had been assigned 3 different tracking codes (none of which worked). I contacted CS and they opened an investigation. That was 12 weeks ago and the whole investigation procedure is only supposed to take 3-4 weeks. This is the first time I have had a REAL problem other than poor english and horrendously long delays on the live chat (of up to 15 mins between responses). The last thing I have done now is told them they have a week to refund my payment for the TX + shipping or I will start a fraudulent transaction case with my Credit Card for none delivery of purchased goods. It shouldn't come to having to threaten them, but often the CS just don't even look at what the problem is. They have to respond to a quota of queries in order to hit targets. Edited By Jeff-C on 06/02/2014 14:10:21

Sorry to bring an old thread back to life, but I have just watched a video of a chap building a Windrider B737. In the video, he paints on some Polycrylic straight on to the EPO surface. I am presuming that this is to strengthen the EPO and give it a kind of 'glassed' hardness to try and resist dings and bangs, but can you cover straight over this once hardened, or even paint over it? It seems to leave a lovely looking surface. Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 06/02/2014 13:57:58

I have done nothing at all with the TX. I fired it up, and it just fluctuates. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBTsPmpJRgo This is a link to it. As you can see, from zero to 100 and back. Almost like it is in a test or something, but I have no idea why it does it or what it is doing. Emailed RobotBirds about it and they seemed less than bothered. Apparently they have contacted FrSky, but that was months ago.

Can anyone with a Taranis tell me if there Channel 32 fluctuates. It can been seen on the digital display that shows switch position.

Roger - I believe you!! When put in terms like that, I get it Sorry it has taken so long to get there. I feel rather naffed off with the company that sold me the insulation, and the builder who told me I needed the foil to be on the external wall with an air gap inward of it Ernie - That all makes sense. Next weeks job then is to remove the already in place barrier, purchase some more appropriate sized timber batons, and start all over again!

So your suggestion is to do away with the air gap? I have lined one wall already in the bubble foil fixed to the external wall. Should I pull that off, install the batons to the external wall to the same depth as the celotex (25mm). Push fit the solid insulation up to the external wall between the batons, cover all of that with the foil wrap, and then attach the boarding to the batons over the foil. This means I would effectively gain an extra 18-20mm of space inside (makes fitting my already bought shelving units a lot easier), and every surface is in contact with each other. Don't fridges have gas that pass between the internal and external walls? Plus fridges are almost always running, I want my heating in my cabin to only really be on at night and when it is under 5 degrees.

Roger, The cabin is a tongue and grove style (link on the first page). So there is going to be draughts and on corner joints.That is why i thought that the foil barrier would be best placed on the wooden cabin wall (internal side). But then I thought about the foil touching the wood might cause condensation between the foil and wooden surface and eventually lead to mould growing inside the wall. That is why I am now not sure if the barrier should be before the insulation or after it. I have always been told that I need an air gap otherwise the conductive cold will come through the wood, through the foil, through the celotex, straight on to the ply internal wall - effectively making the insulation pointless. The air gap acts as a 'warm' cushion to stop the conductive cold from the external wall. The foil reflects the infrared heat back in to the shed, and celotex insulation keeps the warmth in. A bit of a simplistic view I know, but I want the internal of the cabin to be as airtight as possible, and as warm as possible whilst operating within my very tight space constraints. I don't need it to be a bedroom, but I do need it to stop going below freezing with an efficient small heater on in there during the winter. Edited By Jeff-C on 05/01/2014 13:21:39

Hi Roger so on my diagram, if I do a straight swap for the foil (blue) and the celotex (grey), this will be correct. Basically meaning external wall touching celotex - air gap crated by batons - foil bubble wrap (foil facing in) and then the internal ply wall touching foil. Would this be correct? Edited By Jeff-C on 05/01/2014 12:24:50

Hi cynaz thanks for the post. The thickness guide is a little useful as it shows batons and air gaps, but the problem is I am very limited to internal size that can be taken up. It's a maximum of 50mm, and everything as detailed comes in just at that. The only thing I am really worried about is the position of the foil vapour barrier. The manufacturer and a builder says it can be installed touching the external wall, with the air gap on the internal side of it. Yet when I see pictures and videos of people installing cavity walls, the put the insulation board in first touching the external wall, then the air gap and then celotex.

So this is how I have planned to construct the insulation for the internal walls. Outer wall is the actual cabin wall, then the foil bubble wrap to create the vapour barrier. There is an air gap made by batons that will (unfortunately) have to be secured with screws through the foil barrier to the wooden cabin wall. On top of these batons will be fitted the celotex, and then butted on to the celotex will be the ply wood (possible MDF) new internal wall. This will be secured by screws through the board and celotex into the the batons. Question is, it the air gap and baton positioning correct? I can't seem to get a proper answer from anyone.