Jeff-C

Hi everyone. I'm running slightly behind on my reading of my magazine subscription due to working abroad for a period of time. Lots of lovely grey magazine packages waiting to be open. Anyway, I've been desperately searching for a copy or back issue of this magazine, and it's not available anywhere! And I've spent 2 days searching the Internet. Does anyone know were I can get a copy?

An article popped up on the main yahoo worldwide page today showing footage of the London blackout on the 25th Nov 2016 over piccadilly circus. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDc9o-cxH3o Whilst the footage is very nice, something needs to be thought about. This area of London is classed as London TMA, and is designated Class A restricted from surface up. Further to that, there are restrictions on locations and built up areas of flying 'drone' and multi rotors. Finally, if this footage is being used by a news channel or is creating any form of revenue, then I suppose technically the footage is being used for a commercial gain, and that would mean the pilot would have to be licensed as the regulations set out by the CAA? https://uk.news.yahoo.com/central-london-blackout-plunges-picadilly-235931829.html So, what are your thoughts? Edited By Jeff-C on 27/11/2016 18:49:16 Edited By Jeff-C on 27/11/2016 18:49:48

I seem to remember seeing a NOTAM for Red Arrows transit. It might have been because they were operating around London en route from one airshow to another. I have a feeling it may be because they operate low and fast through VFR and Class G airspace. I have not really paid much attention recently, but the likes of Obama and Air Force One are NOTAM for airport closures and movement restrictions. He has a moving airspace restriction around him.

The funny thing about the Mick Reeves website is that the picture of Jim looks like one you would see on the BBC Programme Watchdog in the 'Rouge Traders' sections or Cowboy Builders! (I am not suggesting that Jim is or anything, it just made me chuckle with the half built wall behind him). It is so true that the purpose of a website is to transmit information. If you webspace does not do that, then your are putting yourself on a back back foot before you even start. The internet is a huge place, and unless your target customer is someone who knows you are there and is shopping for your product only, a poor website will make someone assume a poor product. Maybe a wrong association, but presentation forms 90% of first impression.

Hi Boeing Pilot. The model looks really nice, and I hope your venture gets up and running. Can I make a suggestion with regards to your website. I might do with a little tweaking and smartening up, and one thing that you might want to look at is the colour clashes. The dark blue writing with grey background is really hard to read and actually causes a little eyes strain. Black is a really bad colour background to use.

China does totally shut down over the new year. In general, I am pretty happy with HK. I have had a large number of orders, and a relatively small number of issues. All of which have been corrected with minimal fuss or delay.........apart from my current one. I ordered a surface TX 3 CH for my glow car. It arrived but was faulty - Back to the UK warehouse for warrantee it went, and a few days later I got an email saying they were sending a replacement from Hong Kong. Then the LiPo freeze on shipping happened and my parcel was delayed for an unknown period of time. Almost 2 months later it got shipped ChinaPost. The parcel didn't arrived after 36 days, and apparently had been assigned 3 different tracking codes (none of which worked). I contacted CS and they opened an investigation. That was 12 weeks ago and the whole investigation procedure is only supposed to take 3-4 weeks. This is the first time I have had a REAL problem other than poor english and horrendously long delays on the live chat (of up to 15 mins between responses). The last thing I have done now is told them they have a week to refund my payment for the TX + shipping or I will start a fraudulent transaction case with my Credit Card for none delivery of purchased goods. It shouldn't come to having to threaten them, but often the CS just don't even look at what the problem is. They have to respond to a quota of queries in order to hit targets. Edited By Jeff-C on 06/02/2014 14:10:21

Sorry to bring an old thread back to life, but I have just watched a video of a chap building a Windrider B737. In the video, he paints on some Polycrylic straight on to the EPO surface. I am presuming that this is to strengthen the EPO and give it a kind of 'glassed' hardness to try and resist dings and bangs, but can you cover straight over this once hardened, or even paint over it? It seems to leave a lovely looking surface. Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 06/02/2014 13:57:58

I have done nothing at all with the TX. I fired it up, and it just fluctuates. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xBTsPmpJRgo This is a link to it. As you can see, from zero to 100 and back. Almost like it is in a test or something, but I have no idea why it does it or what it is doing. Emailed RobotBirds about it and they seemed less than bothered. Apparently they have contacted FrSky, but that was months ago.

Can anyone with a Taranis tell me if there Channel 32 fluctuates. It can been seen on the digital display that shows switch position.

Roger - I believe you!! When put in terms like that, I get it Sorry it has taken so long to get there. I feel rather naffed off with the company that sold me the insulation, and the builder who told me I needed the foil to be on the external wall with an air gap inward of it Ernie - That all makes sense. Next weeks job then is to remove the already in place barrier, purchase some more appropriate sized timber batons, and start all over again!

So your suggestion is to do away with the air gap? I have lined one wall already in the bubble foil fixed to the external wall. Should I pull that off, install the batons to the external wall to the same depth as the celotex (25mm). Push fit the solid insulation up to the external wall between the batons, cover all of that with the foil wrap, and then attach the boarding to the batons over the foil. This means I would effectively gain an extra 18-20mm of space inside (makes fitting my already bought shelving units a lot easier), and every surface is in contact with each other. Don't fridges have gas that pass between the internal and external walls? Plus fridges are almost always running, I want my heating in my cabin to only really be on at night and when it is under 5 degrees.

Roger, The cabin is a tongue and grove style (link on the first page). So there is going to be draughts and on corner joints.That is why i thought that the foil barrier would be best placed on the wooden cabin wall (internal side). But then I thought about the foil touching the wood might cause condensation between the foil and wooden surface and eventually lead to mould growing inside the wall. That is why I am now not sure if the barrier should be before the insulation or after it. I have always been told that I need an air gap otherwise the conductive cold will come through the wood, through the foil, through the celotex, straight on to the ply internal wall - effectively making the insulation pointless. The air gap acts as a 'warm' cushion to stop the conductive cold from the external wall. The foil reflects the infrared heat back in to the shed, and celotex insulation keeps the warmth in. A bit of a simplistic view I know, but I want the internal of the cabin to be as airtight as possible, and as warm as possible whilst operating within my very tight space constraints. I don't need it to be a bedroom, but I do need it to stop going below freezing with an efficient small heater on in there during the winter. Edited By Jeff-C on 05/01/2014 13:21:39

Hi Roger so on my diagram, if I do a straight swap for the foil (blue) and the celotex (grey), this will be correct. Basically meaning external wall touching celotex - air gap crated by batons - foil bubble wrap (foil facing in) and then the internal ply wall touching foil. Would this be correct? Edited By Jeff-C on 05/01/2014 12:24:50

Hi cynaz thanks for the post. The thickness guide is a little useful as it shows batons and air gaps, but the problem is I am very limited to internal size that can be taken up. It's a maximum of 50mm, and everything as detailed comes in just at that. The only thing I am really worried about is the position of the foil vapour barrier. The manufacturer and a builder says it can be installed touching the external wall, with the air gap on the internal side of it. Yet when I see pictures and videos of people installing cavity walls, the put the insulation board in first touching the external wall, then the air gap and then celotex.

So this is how I have planned to construct the insulation for the internal walls. Outer wall is the actual cabin wall, then the foil bubble wrap to create the vapour barrier. There is an air gap made by batons that will (unfortunately) have to be secured with screws through the foil barrier to the wooden cabin wall. On top of these batons will be fitted the celotex, and then butted on to the celotex will be the ply wood (possible MDF) new internal wall. This will be secured by screws through the board and celotex into the the batons. Question is, it the air gap and baton positioning correct? I can't seem to get a proper answer from anyone.

Vecchio, I have just seen your shed again on Olly's thread. I still can't believe how much you have managed to pack in to there, (and a lawnmower!!) Very neat and tidy and a real inspiration! Edited By Jeff-C on 04/01/2014 08:54:18

Thank you all for your ideas. KC- will certainly have a look at those books when I get back from work, thank you very much. Vecchio - Those are some fine looking sheds. One thing I was told before I moved, was if I was going down the shiplap shed route, then even just a small amount of insulation in between the batons on the walls makes such a huge difference. That is why I am planning a slightly more complicated airgap / insulation system on my cabin. I want it to be totally useable all year round, and a neighbour has a job lot of thicker kingspan that I can put in the roof space (although I won't bother boarding over this, just fit the insulation). The idea then is to have a few frost fighters (greenhouse heaters) in various places around the cabin. Hopefully if I install 4 of those (to make around 500w), it will distribute the heat evenly and allow the shed to stay at a constant temp during the winter, and cost less than £1 or so per day to keep the freezing chill out during winter. Olly - I have actually been following your thread, and I too am very jealous! What an amazing space you have. It is almost as large as the downstairs of my house!! Storage is so important, that is the reason that I want to try an utilise the recess for total storage as it then can be hidden away to give the room a little bit better "feng shui". In relation to lighting, I was thinking of getting a few natural light strips on on the main rafter, and then having some multi-directional spots to go under the full width shelf that I am planning to have above the workbench. These can then be turned on and off individually to make for more efficiency and to make individual work areas. Then comes the headache of plug sockets. I get the idea that more is better! I want everything to be as neat as possible, but I can't help but feel having a few 4 plug multi-blocks at each workstation is going to be the easiest. Just so you know, hopefully the boss will be heading away for a few days with the kids next week as we have building work done, which means I will have the house to myself (as I have to babysit the builders). Perfect time to move everything from my shed into the house, and get stuck in to doing the project. There will be lots of pictures to follow! Edited By Jeff-C on 04/01/2014 08:49:14

Mogs that is a really good idea. I have an old watch makers lamp that has a large 30cm magnifying glass in the middle. Imagine a make up mirror with a light running all the way round it, but instead of a mirror it is a magnifying glass. Really great light and useful for small soldering and things, but a pain to constantly work behind and not all that easy to move around. so your light is on a sort of friction mount which let's you move it and then it stays in that position?

Colin. That is surprisingly more tidy than my cabin at the moment, hence why I have HAD to do something about it. You really have managed to pack a lot in to a very small space. Thank you for sharing. Do you have heating in there? It doesn't look like you have insulated in there, so must be quite chilly.

Hahaha. Well, if I had it all insulated and all my models were in there......would it be such a bad thing?! Means I can get away from the children!! In relation to bench height, most units and surfaces sit at about 85-90cm, which is just a tiny bit to low for me to stand at comfortably. That is why I was not going down the kitchen unit route as I want something in the 100cm - 110cm region. I have been told that the hight of the bench is by far the most important thing.

First of all. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you all! So, my situation is that I am upgrading my log cabin. Currently it is bog standard as purchased (has been used for storage and a home office, and was gifted to us when we moved house); **LINK** I am adding a layer of foil backed 'bubble wrap' initially onto the internal wall (foil facing in), and this will be be the vapour barrier. There will be a small air gap then created by batons, and then 25mm of celotex or kingspan polyboard. Finally, on top of this will be 5.5mm ply board for the inner wall. I have had to use slightly smaller thickness insulation due to size issues of shelving units, but something is always better then nothing. So looking at the cabin dimensions, the plan is something like this:- - In the 2m x 1 alcove, I will have floor to ceiling shelving units running up the 1m section where the door recess is, and then one of the opposing wall. These are 90cm wide and 2m high (fit perfectly). Then there will be a width wise lower level unit that is 90cm that will fit in under the window at 90degrees to the 2m high units.. Basically this will create a large storage area that is in the shape of "U" .  I then plan to put a large curtain over this area to effectively isolate it from the rest of the shed, meaning that can house all non-aviation DIY equipment. So this will now effectively leave me with a long thin area approx. 3.7m long x 1.7m wide along the full length of the back wall. This is what I need a little bit of inspiration on. I am thinking of maybe a long 3m kitchen work surface bench sitting on top of some ikea drawer units spaced to create either 2 or 3 areas where I can put my stool in between. This has the added advantage of breaking the area into a few defined building areas. Then above this I was planning on having shelves that run the full width of the wall. This then leaves me at the end of the unit 70cm to store some larger model wings in an upright position. What are your suggestions and idea? What have you done in your workshop for build benches? How high did you make you bench? What did you use and why? Did you insulate and how did you do it? Anything and everything that you might have suggestions on would be brilliant, or even pictures would be amazing. This is a one time chance to make this place perfect (and the only time the boss will allow me to move everything in to the house for a few days whilst I rearrange it all), so I need to get it right!! Edited By Jeff-C on 01/01/2014 10:56:24

Deleted - dead thread. My mistake! Edited By Jeff-C on 22/12/2013 22:28:22

Hi Graham, I used to do exactly what you are looking for here in Bristol. A group of us used to meet up on the Downs and fly. It is a huge bit of common land, so all are welcome. It has kind of disappeared now, but there are often lone fliers up there. Everyone however flies electric though for safety reasons. Having a large lump of metal hitting someone walking their dog is really bad news. Speaking of which, I would seriously consider BMFA membership simply for the 3rd party liability insurance. £32 for 'Country Membership' is really worth it, and the year starts in Jan 1st. I used to fly with no insurance when I first got going, and was flying little depron foamy planes and very lightweight polystyrene (before the days of EPO etc.). I was flying off common land with a few people who also didn't want to join an official club. Only a couple had BMFA membership as they didn't want the cost. One afternoon a family came over whilst walking their dog to watch us. One of the chaps started up his glow engine Piper Cub and sent it down the field. He thought he was using 2.4gHz but actually his Cub was still on 35mHz and he didn't pull the ariel out. Long and short of it was, if it was going to hit anyone, it was going to hit one of the people watching - and it did! The plane hit a 12 year old girl square in the legs. She tried to jump out the way (which was lucky) and missed the prop, but the wings hit her. She ended up with some nasty cuts on her legs. Ambulance came and took her away, and within a week this chap found himself with a visit from the police and letters of civil action. He had no insurance and ended up having to pay almost £3,000 in damages and fees. £32 would have been a better investment. Ever since then, I have never flown without being a BMFA membership and never will. Not even flying a foam park flier because it still has a prop, it still can go out of control, and still can blind or injure someone if it hits them. Don't also think that if you are flying on private land you are safe because planes fly off and out of sight. Who knows what it will hit when it lands.....and it will land! Basically, I am all for having fun and messing about. Do what ever you want and fly what you want, but for the sake of £32 saving to NOT be insured, I wouldn't want to fly in the same group as you incase something goes wrong and someone gets hurt.   On another note, all the clubs in the Bristol area are very very friendly, and most operate a "club certificate" which means you can fly in their club unsupervised once you have proved you can turn your model on and off without cutting your arms open, have a basic level of knowledge that throttle up means motor spins and which controls do what, take off and land safely, and most importantly know about the consequences of using 2 TX on the same 35mHz band (if your club is not 2.4 exclusive).   If you can do that without killing yourself or anyone else, most clubs will let you fly.  And the fun part of standing talking to 'like minded people' isn't going to be anymore obvious than when you are at a club field with a manicured runway surrounded by hundreds of models and people flying them...........however this does cost unfortunately. Edited By Jeff-C on 22/12/2013 21:42:20

Yes Please!! Merry Christmas!!