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Hamish

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Everything posted by Hamish

  1. Phil I have an old OS 40 FS in mine and it is just fine with a 11 X 6 or 7 prop.  It just ticks over on less than half throttle. I have an OS 48 FS and suggested to put it in but was recommended not to due to additional weight.  I have an Irvine 40 2 stroke, but somehow this type of model suits a 4 stroke purring away like a singer sewing machine rather than the buzzing wasp.  Everybody to there preferences. With respect to prop sizes it was simple     try and see Good luck
  2. John Is this another model ?
  3. John I have been using FMS and found it quite good.  I was using a model gptrh which I thought was a good representation of what to expect although FMS is to forgiving and lets you off with a lot.  Just to compare I took your listing for the SuperCub and renamed it gptrh11.  I also had to change the X file to the same name. Wow, what a change.  A lot nearer to the real thing and encouraging me to use FMS more Thanks for your posting 
  4. Yes Kelvin. A small hole in the centre section which is balsa.  Cut out and patched OK.  I managed to puncture the wing when joining.  From advise I was given, I patched using solartrim as concern was though about the existing covering taking heat.  Having repaired the hole and applied solarfilm to the wing outer to create straight line in the livery, I would have no hesitation in using solarfilm to repair any future hole.  I do have limited experience in covering and my finished job is no work of art.  I am treating the trainer in the broadest sense and its a good test bed to improve my skills.  No experience of other coverings but welcome to try. I had some reservations about the resin I used to join the wing and stripped it back and fitted a bandage. When it was stripped I could look through the joint in places so am happy I did the bandage.  If I was building another I would bandage.   Soon be up and away again.
  5. Shaun The CoG was OK.  I was a bit concerned it was going to be too heavy but it was up and aware with an Irvine 40 and flew no problem. If this was a problem, would a larger engine help? One thing for sure, it is far more robust and should be able to take a bit of  dunt more readily.  My concern initially with the Boomerang was it would not take a heavy dunt although none would have survived the dunt this had
  6. Having had my Boomerang virtually destroy itself on its third flight I decided not to give up and did a rebuild. Pictures say more than a thousand words can so I have been taking snaps as I went along. She flew again yesterday in the hands of a competent pilot. Once I sort the throws etc, done on the transmitter I will have it up again on the buddy box. Got to say I have had a lot of satisfaction rebuilding and the pleasure of seeing it fly again was immense. Possibly the purest will have comments about my methods, but I have another model to fly.
  7. You can reverse servos from your transmitter.  I have two servos in the wing one into Ch1 and the other in Ch 6.  All configurations done within the transmitter, flaps, air brakes. Just re-read your post, are you proposing a total of 4 servos in the wings?
  8. Model looks great and glad you are keeping us in the picture. The servo arms are on the underside of the wing on my Magnitilla.  Other than appearance, can an expert tell if it will make any difference
  9. I get extremely concerned when somebody mentions using alcohol for modeling use rather than internal consumption.  Single malts should only be used for consolation when the last attempt failed. Must go and get another "low flier" , all this talk of drink?
  10. Google "fms to vista" and you will find a lot of info This link may help    http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=730253 Once I copied the DDL file into the system of my Dell laptop I had no problems with FMS.  If you are not to computer literate you may need assistance but all I am saying it will work on Vista
  11. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. One of my first priorities was to get two transmitters and a buddy lead.  This was to ensure that control can be taken over by the trainer before an incident happens. It also meant that I was not reliant on plugging into somebody else transmitter.  At that time I had gone Sanwa way and the majority are on Futaba. I have subsequently gone the Futaba way and have a T7CP, which should provide my needs for the future and I picked up a Skysport 4 for the buddy. Suggest you  consider investing in a Buddy lead and try to get an instructor able to link with
  12. I have a Boomerang that for some unforeseen reason decided to total itself.  At the moment, after a few hours making a jigsaw puzzle from the bits we collected, I have rebuilt the front end from just in front of the front wing dowel.  I have sandwiched 3mm ply from the bulkhead at the rear dowel forward. Once complete you will not be able to see from the outside. I had thought of reproducing the colour scheme but decided this is a trainer and its purpose is for me to learn on and not look pretty. Tip here is to make sure you take as carrier bag and collect all the bits after the next crash. To join my wings I used a resin I had which I was using in a kit car I have.   Discussing this at the flying field it was suggested that whilst the resin may be very hard it may be brittle and I therefor decided to bandage the wing which I have just done.  Once I had stripped off the finished fabric I was totally surprised that I could look through the join at several bits.  The wing bandage to me is essential and if I was putting together another on this would be done without a second thought. I have enjoyed the challenge of repairing this model and will be over the moon when it is up and away. After I crashed the Bomerang I picked up a complete Magnatilla with a OS40 4 stroke, all the servos and only requiring a receiver.  It is an absolute dream to fly and is nice and slow for a trainer. Good luck with your Boomerang and take extra care to join the wings
  13. Hamish

    Futaba T7CP

    I am setting up P-Mix1 to operate the flaps from switch E in the away position.  I have followed the Futaba  Q & A guidance by making Ch1 the master and Ch6 the slave and set the rates at 100% I have also set to  switch E which indicates it has been assigned.  Q & A say that an Offset does not need to be set.  When I cursor down to OFS it is displaying a flashing SET which I cannot remove/change. On the assumption this is what I require change how do I do it. I have enable the Flaps from the VR control and have also activated Airbrakes.  All other options are inhibited. Any ideas? ps When I changed the rates as instructed, it was only by luck that I discovered that this was achieved by moving the stick and then adjusting.  Have I missed something in the manual? Edit Although not much interest in this topic I have made P-Mix1 with the master as OFS and the slave as Ch1.  P-Mix2 is the same but with Ch6.  Although this works its not as shown on Q&A and hopefully somebody will respond????
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