Richard Putnam

Thanks Danny and Quinn, I must start using layers in turbo cad. and Quinn I managed successfully to copy and paste a Jpeg image into turbo cad. I wonder why I didn't think of that before!   Richard.

Hi Geoff, That's just what I needed to know..The wing is old so I am not sure how it was held on before! but there is no servo hole in the centre of the wing or as you suggest a direct servo drive to the aileron. (The torque rods are in place). and there is no hole at the rear of the wing for the hold down bolt. Never mind I now know which way to go . Thanks a lot. Richard.

Hi, I have got hooked on Soaring  and have been given ( I think!) a Phase 6. It looks as though it was the pro version with a symmetrical wing section. This has now been filled in on the fuz. by the previous owner.Raw  balsa has been glued in place  ,probably ready for modifying to  the semi symmetrical type section of the wing which came with the fuselage.   1/There is no void in the wing to take the servo,  to drive  the torque rod type ailerons. 2/There isn't a peg at the front of the wing to locate it in the fus ( which has a hole for said pin). 3/ There is a screw fixing at the rear of the wing seat but no hole to take the screw in the wing. The cover over the wing section is missing. Any thoughts or an old plan would be gratefully appreciated.  I am a club instructor for IC and a keen builder so there is no problem carrying out the mods once  I am sure which method I should employ to marry the wing to the fuz..   Ricard.        

1 -65 2-IC Sport & aerobatics 3-10

Hi Andy and Pete, Thanks for your replies, Pete I will go with 30mm total dihedral. Also thanks for the tip on setting up the transmitter. My friend used a cassette tape box under each wing so without realising it he was right on the money! Thanks again, Richard.

Hi, A member of my club is assembling an artf  Piper cub J-3. 67 inch wing span  and he says the name on the box is SF or FS!   I can't find any reference to a supplier of that name. Anyway....... On assembling the wings they started to move just as the epoxy was going off. In a desperate attemp to pull the wings apart he broke the joiner / dihedral brace.   I have managed to clean out the epoxy ready to put in a new brace but the instructions do not give an angle for dihedral or how much to prop the wing up by.( Don't ask how my friend worked out the angle).   How much dihedral do I need or the total included angle? many thanks for bearing with me . kairos.

Get well soon David . From all the members of 1066 MFC we are thinking of you.  

Hi Ian, I have a 6EX and it is a good radio, I moved on to the FF7 because I needed more model memories and also I was starting to train people and needed the training options. I am also sticking to 35 MHz for the time being as the receivers for 2.4 GHz are so expensive. ( but saying that if I was just starting out  now I would probably go for 2.4 GHz ).Spectrum seems to have a good following but I don’t know much about them. I don’t think you will go far wrong with any of the main manufacturers of computer radios.   Let me know how you get on .Good luck. Oh, what  type of aeroplanes do you envisage flying  IC ,Electric ,ARTF or building from plans? Richard.      

hi Ian, Thanks for the reply, I am getting the knack of the FF7 now and have solved most of my problems. Actually the plugs for the 6EX and the FF7 are the same so there is no problem with the plugs.But I do know you cant mix the older (Non computer) radios with the later computer models. Hmm try again. You can use an older radio as a slave  but you can't use a new radio as a slave to a  an old radio .Phew!!   Good luck . Itsa great hobby. Richard.

Hi Barry, I am sure by the sound of your mail that you are conversant with the FF7 but just a few checks. FF7 will only work as a trainer with other modern Futaba Transmitters.Make sure the trainer facility is turned on. It will read "on" or "off" don’t forget INH is switch inhibited (not in use). On & off confused me for ages it is just the switch position. Both positions are active.Adjustability- when the trainer switch is "ON" I find the best setting is "F" any mixing is then controlled by the instructor. (Any mix buried deep in the donor transmitter can really screw things up). Make sure the donor transmitter is set to PPM.Have another look at the manual . Setting up the trainer facility is quite complicated and I found that missing one simple step , had me to scratching my head for ages. If you haven’t got a manual it can be downloaded from Futaba. I am probably telling you how to suck eggs but I know it took me quite a time to come to terms with all the intricacies of the FF7. Good luck and if you want any more help just shout. Richard. [email protected].

Hi, I have recently bought a FF7 35 MHz  second hand (T7CP) I am a club instructor so using the trainer mode is a necessity. I am buddying a Futaba T6EXA with the FF7. I have set only one channel on the FF7 to Trainer mode , yet I cannot switch to the buddy TX. ( the trainer settings are set to "F").   Whilst on the subject of FF7 I cannot make the Throttle cut either!   Any help would be much appreciated.   kairos.

I agree I could do with an idiot's guide.

 All the cans I have seen seam a bit large for my models  but there is no reason why you couldn't chop up any tin can and design your own tank to suit your aircraft . I still do this for my Control line planes. PS my latest RC model has a balsa tank using glass resin inside and out. It hasn't flown yet but should be OK as I have run tests on the resin to make sure it did not melt when subjected to glow fuel.