Clark Ross

thanks for the input makes me wonder what else is out there that we use without knowingi have parkinson;s disease maybe all those years of breathing paint fumes  clark

found a new glue it is called welder a contact cement made by homax products herein the usa. it is the perfect canopy glue. it has to be held in place till dry  about an hour to set and twelve to cure but once set you will tear the canopy trying to get it off. the primary use i bought it for is for hinging control surfaces(beveled edges type)you just tape the two surfaces together and smear a small dab in several places on the joint let dry then remove the tape and walla a hinged joint. there is only a thin film doing the job but it is tough and flexible. you have to do it to believe it.it is the only way i hinge now. clark

my name is clark ross and i thought that was interesting because i have never heard of anyone with the same name as mine except being opposite. and a fellow modeller also.    i live in the united states.

i give up , i will just stay with what works for me   regards clark

the reflexed airfoil on a plank type wing has no washout. the reflex is there to stabilise. and the twist is there on a swept wing for the same reason and washout is just a secondary benefit . wihout the twist the wing would tuck under.    the me163 is a good example ,  you can see the twist in the wing the question is how much do you need to counteract the lift forces that cause it to tuck under   regards clark

no tim  all flying wings have either a twist in the wing or elevons that have a little up in them or like a plank which has a reflexed airfoil. on a swept wing you have to have a different angle at the tip because the wingtip becomes the stabilizer and just like a normal airplane there has to be a difference between the wing and stabilizer .of course the twist also acts as washout to prevent tip stall.   a good web site for flying wings is( the wing is the thing)   regards clark

the trouble i have with a wing is when i use a twist in the wing i don't know what angle difference there should be between the root and the tip. not enough and it will tuck under to much and you are just adding drag.   i agree with the one third of the mean chord projected back to the root chord but the location of the  cg seems to be effected by the twist or angle of the elevons.   does anyone have an idea what the angle should be.

something i think is very important in relationship to wing position is center of gravity, everything revolves around it .it is a point not a line someware in the airplanes structure.    with a high wing the cg is under the wing giving a pendelum effect which contributes to stability with a low wing the cg is above the wing requiring more dihedral to compensate for the instability caused by the high cg.    the areobatic airplane usually has the cg in the center of the wing with no dihedral to make it delibertly unstable so it will respond quicker.   regards,  clark

tryed krylon paint works well ,takes alot of effort to scratch it off thanks guys  clark

thanks guys  while browsing the forum i found a site that i can't find again but they said that krylon brand paint will work so i am going to give that a try first on a test piece to prove it does work   clark

can anyone tell me if it is possible to paint mylar covering material . what i want to do is cover the airplane in olive drab and then using brown or dark green paint a camoflog pattern over it. i am afraid the paint will     peel. is there a paint that   that will work.?  my originel idea was to cover it with a covering that was camoflage but was unable to find it.   clark                            /

flew mine with new motor and two cell lipo . it flys but not easy to fly you have to throw it hard and upward if you don't it will dive into ground. two thirds throttle is best less it dives more it climbs . every time i try to fly i bring back pieces it is getting to look pretty sad just about ready for the scrap barrel. i think something has to be done to the thrust line to keep it from diving.   clark

flew mine was underpowered glided ok but i broke something had to quit for the day. put a diferent motor on it . trying to fly it on two cell lipo instead of three didn't want to buy another battery pack haven't flown it yet with new motor.   clark

mine is done but looks like i am going to have to add a lot of weight to get it to balance. i put the hatch on top to make it easier to get at clark

i just finished designing and building a bamboo bomber has not been flown yet mine is a thirty inch span using two mgk geared motors. i would like to see some one design a maybe larger model of it.   clark

i use a variac it came out of  a  arc  welder . there is a whole bank of them in a welder and when a welder goes bad they usualy throw all of them out and rebuild with new ones. if you know of a welder supply place you might pick a used one reasonably. they have more power than you will ever use. and they have there own voltage control   about cutting i hang mine from a steel rod with a linaer bearing to give a smooth ride, you don't want any thing to wiggle while your cutting. the bow  is pulled thru the foam and over the end templates by hand using   two insulated wire hooks. the bow has two weights that are positioned to  put  upword  or downword force against the cutting wire depending  on whitch you are cutting the top or bottom of the wing.   the rod  is supporeted above the table from both ends. it requires only one person to operate it.   clark

a raised entry on a flat bottomed airfoil can make a big difference depending on how far it is raised. and a rounded leading edge helps to seperate the airflow while changing angles of flight. having the corect stabilizer size helps to. back in the fifties a close friend of mine larry conover won the world chapionship fai free flight with a model called the lucky lindy. it had a flat bottomed airfoil with a sharp leading edge that had a glide ratio that had to be sean to be believed. but it was specialised for free flight and would not have worked well any where else

very basic most of the time. usually 1/3 back from leading edge on astraight wing . there is a method to find it on a swept wing. "question" i have a glider with a wing panel that is straight for the first 30" then it has a 30" tip that has a straight trailing edge and a tapered leading edge . i have assumed that i  figure out the cg for each panel and go half way between for the actual cg position. that seems logical, but what if the panels are not equal? usually i just add or take away weight after a test flight but some times there isn't enough room inside and i end up sticking weight on the outside {ugly} i like to cast a lead weight to fit in a space provided. clark

i am looking at a set of plans of a extra 3.25 .that was a pull out two sheet set from model airplane news. unfortunately there is no date on the plans. it has a 47" wing span but any copy shop can reduce or enlarge the plans . the plan was designed and drawn by rich uravitch . the pull out plans by joe demarco. every time i look at the plans i get all fired up to build it but just haven,t . it has small control surfaces so it was probably designed before 3d flying good hunting clark

drove through the blowing snow and frigid temperatures to the school gym. toasty warm inside.had agood flying night . good old basket ball court got used for something better than basketball

make sure the cg is where it's is shown on the plans it could be  it a little foward but never backword it is always better to be a little nose heavy than tail heavy especialy on a wing . trim the glide with the elevons and the powered flight with the thrust line usualy down thrust. deltas are a different ball game since they don,t stall as easy as a wing.

in the early days of radio control it was very common to see a flyer running across the field with transmitter held high yelling i haven't got . followed by the statement ,did anyone see where it went down?

hi phil . i have been reading the responces to your questions they should be vary helpfull . one thing that has not been covered is the type of airplane you should start off with since you are new to the hobbie. most beginners want to start of with an airplane that  they don't have the flying skills to handel . they spend a lot of time building only to destroy it on their first flight. you will have better luck starting out with a trainer ,one with just three chanels (no ailerons) a slow flyer or a powered glider or an indoor plane like the vapor. they will crash many times with no damage and give you time to develop the flying skills you need. it just isn't as easy as it looks. another helpful thing is if there is a club in your area join it  you will learn alot from observation and asking questions off the members. clark

got another problem . been trying to upload a picture . don't have a little green tree anywhere . iam using windows 98 maybe thats the problem. clark

i live in iowa witch does't have very many slopes that aren't covered with trees. ifly electric we always have what i call green parrots (all talk and no fly) clark