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dave windymiller

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  1. dave windymiller
    Rojair ME109G prototype being resurrected
  2. dave windymiller
    Rojair ME109G prototype being resurrected
  3. dave windymiller
    Rojair ME109G prototype being resurrected
  4. dave windymiller
    Rojair ME109G prototype being resurrected
  5. dave windymiller
    Unfortunately I cant show any photos as its hidden inside the fus until its next crash! Im not sure of the plan its built from but I think its an adapted version of the BH plan. Its 69" span and the fus is in two sections, the rear half is stepped behind the wing and behind the cockpit. Its got 2 X la40s swinging 10x5 3-blade props from master airscrew (about 3 quid each from hobbyking via hongkong!) . When it all goes well its beautiful in the air. I have the ailerons up a few degrees to prevent tip stalling plus both engines point outwards a few degree to hopefully minimise yaw on a dead engine. Its got no flaps! It did have a clear nose section but since its first crash, its now the fighter solid nose version(never got round to adding cannons). The eagle eyed would spot the wrong canopy for the NF version! It became a labour of love after 3 rebuilds!  I felt I owed it to Tony Bowler (RIP) who built it. Edited By dave windymiller on 15/08/2018 13:25:41
  6. dave windymiller
    Be warned. If a tail wheel can cause the rudder arm to slip, 100% it will on the first bump. The mosquito flight will be very short! ask me how i know. I bought this nice model off the estate of a fellow club member but this one fault has been its downfall (3 times). Each of my improvements proving inadequate. The grub screw was swapped for a cap head screw but even this didnt give enough grip. Loctte also failed. Mine has now a cap head screw locating onto a flat on the shaft, holding a solid brass arm and has been silver soldered too. Best solution is independant tail wheel servo which i will try if theres another iteration of this problem! The mossie now sports an easy to repair night fighter black with home made spinners!     Edited By dave windymiller on 13/08/2018 22:32:59
  7. dave windymiller

    dave windymiller posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  8. dave windymiller
    Thanks for the advice thus far. Just found the issue. Pressing Sys on the jog dial displayed the transmission protocol ie fasst-mult and not the SYS menu. It was acting the same as pressing the rtn button. After playing more with the rotary jog switch, the sys button started working properly (dirty or dodgy sensor??) Now i could get in to this long forgotten menu. i could see rudder was set to reverse in the "H/W set". putting this to normal and reversing it inthe linkage menu sorted it. Obviously i must have done this when i first got the radio as it was "model 1" that had the problem!. Sys isnt something i normally need to go into and i hadnt missed it at all! Despite having a degree in computing electronics this tranny still has the power to purplex me.
  9. dave windymiller
    Im probably being dumb and missing something simple but my rudder trim operates opposite to the stick on one model (all others are fine). I could cure it by copying another similar model but i would like to know why. Its a model thats not flown for many years so this may be an old problem i never spotted before. Rudder servo is not reversed, on rx output 4 (FRSKY 8 ch), no mixes and nothing else trying to drive output 4. All rates and endpoints are normal (no negatives) Rudder is J4, trim is T4. Cant see anything that may do this! Any thoughts? Thanks Dave
  10. dave windymiller
    ME109 had a cannon in the centre. I discuss this earlier in the thread.
  11. dave windymiller
    Final push I attach the prop to the back plate so i can mark off the blade positions. An old crankshaft is useful here. Mill out slots to miss the blades (not too wide, enough to clear the blades with say 1-2mm gap.  This can be done on a lathe quite easily! Once the prop fits the back plate, cut out the spinner to miss the blades with a small gap. I find an old prop with one blade handy here. Once the cutout shape is good trace it and use the shape for the other cutout(s). Note the cut out has to be big enough (underneath the blade) to allow the spinner to fit without angling it. Once the backplate, prop & spinner all fit together, i make a reference mark on both backplate and spinner so these always align. To fit the screws I drill through both components with the tapping size. Im using m2x5mm CS screws four of between each blade. Drill at the right angle so the screw head is flush to the spinner. I have used an m4 rod to hold the parts tightly together, we dont want them moving. Open up the holes in the spinner to clearance holes and countersink to suit the screws. The end result! If made accurately, it shouldnt need balancing! Im sure there are other more scales ways of attaching the spinner rather than screws but this works well and can withstand a starter motor no problems. I have never found a need to add grips/nurling to stop the prop rotating on the back plate on a 2 stroke. A 4 stroke may be different.  Just keep an eye to make sure things stay aligned and check the screws stay tight. A mild thread lock may be necessary on the screws if they undo although i have never found this.   I wouldnt bother with all this for a sports plane, its so much easier buying a spinner. For non-available spinner shapes for scale planes it certainly works if you have the patience and is rewarding to do. Fee free to post any pics of spinners you make on here! Now back to finishing off the ME109 Dave (Windy) Miller   Edited By dave windymiller on 26/05/2018 21:03:32
  12. dave windymiller
    Rojair ME109G prototype being resurrected
  13. dave windymiller

    ME109 spinner

    dave windymiller posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    ME109 spinner
  14. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
  15. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
  16. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
  17. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
  18. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
  19. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
  20. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
  21. dave windymiller
    The cyno is enough as long as there is enough area. My 3" spinner was held perfectly well by a 2" dia face taking a maximum of 20 thou (0.5mm) off each cut. Dont let the parts get too hot. I used a very thin cyno and made sure the parts were well forced together as it set. Cheers Dave
  22. dave windymiller
    Hi Danny The metals are nothing fancy. Dural (duralumin) is simply a tougher grade of ally but normal ally should suffice and would be lighter. I had dural kicking about as it was once part of a wheely bar from a drag bike. The metal for spinning is just bog standard 1/16 ally sheet (dont know what grade). I have made spinners using glass cloth (having made a mould from a vac formed version) but with the same back plate idea. Heres my mossi. These spinners withstood a vertical crash into the soft field after the usual tip stall that mossies love to do so much. Thankfully, the repairs to the plane only took a week. Dave   Edited By dave windymiller on 21/05/2018 23:09:37 Edited By dave windymiller on 21/05/2018 23:11:42
  23. dave windymiller
    Mossie spinner glass fibre
  24. dave windymiller
    To make the backplate True up a rough cut peice of 6mm dural using a 6mm hole and 6mm screw to hold it in the lathe. Once round it can be removed and a better, more accurate method of holding it will be used. Put a peice of scrap thats smaller than the spinner into the lathe and true up the front face and add a shallow 8mm hole After degreasing, attach the backplate to the newly formed face using thin cyno and a tailstock centre to get it reasonably true. The faces should be very true if alls well and the o/d can be also trued up. Dont remove this from the chuck until all machining is done. Set the tool stock to an angle that suits the spinner at the base. Machine away the o/d until the spinner fits over the backplate. Leave a 1.5mm shoulder for the spinner to seat on. Take off just enough for the spinner to seat against the 1.5mm shoulder. It should sit nicely and be a tight fit that holds itself on. All being well, the spinner will spin true!  The shoulder edge can be trimmed to match the spinner either using the same angle or at 90 degrees as preferred. Machine away the centre to leave a 1.5mm backplate and a 3mm thick outer ring where the spinner fits. Also open up the centre with a boring bar from 6mm to fit the engine (1/4" in my case). It can now be removed from the lathe by heating with a blowtorch until the cyno fails. Clean up the back of any cyno that remains.   Final instalment soon! Edited By dave windymiller on 20/05/2018 22:54:45
  25. dave windymiller
    ME109 spinner spinning
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