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Romeo Whisky

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Everything posted by Romeo Whisky

  1. Do I gather you've got the Overlander Tucano 1.2m as well Andy? - that would explain how you know that the instructions left a lot to be desired (or worked out for yourself!).  I've had mine some time, but when I built it I exchanged emails with Graham Cornford who designed it, and he was very helpful in providing the "missing info", but this issue was not one I queried with him.  In fact it flies fine, both slow and fast, and TBH I can't remember how I set up the aileron neutral position.  It was only when a pal was building his that I realised I hadn't given it much thought.  This problem (ailerons and washout) is not uncommon with ARTFs of course, as I had the same issue with my Ripmax Mustang.  Although I bow to the wisdom above, in one sense I can't see it makes much difference, since by aligning at the tip, the effect at the root is that the aileron is deflected upwards, effectively decreasing the angle of incidence.  This means that the tip still has a greater angle of incidence relative to the root, so negating the washout effect to some extent.  This is all getting a bit technical now but very interesting nevertheless.
  2. Looks like Myron and I still have some unanswered questions about LiPo storage temperature.  More info please Timbo.
  3. Hi Simuk and welcome to the forum. Difficult to know exactly what caused this problem, but it is possible the motor or ESC were overworked by the significantly higher voltage of the LiPo compared to the NiMh, which would mean pulling more watts unless you propped down (smaller diameter or finer pitch propeller).  If you're just starting but intend to stay with the hobby, you really do need to get yourself a Wattmeter (BRC Hobbies stock these, as will virtually any model shop selling electric flight stuff).  By connecting this between the battery and ESC you will see all the key numbers which tell you whether or not you've got a good setup, or whether you are over-cooking the motor or ESC.   Happy landings.
  4. Thanks Timbo - but that link is for Subscribers only, and I want to keep my local newsagent in business!
  5. Sorry guys, but the answers so far amount to...      "If I was going there I wouldn't start from here" We are talking abount an ARTF built-up electric model (Overlander 1.2m Tucano) where there are only three choices!    1.  Align at tip2.  Align at root3.  Split the difference and align it half way between the two. So which is the least worst (if not ideal) solution?
  6. Could I chip in a related question for Timbo here?  I've heard of cases where LiPos are said to have "died over winter" when kept in a cold place such as garage or shed, and I've also heard of them becoming inadvertently overcharged when cold.  (I realise these comments may be just "folk-lore", hearsay or opinions of course).  You seem to speak with authority on this subject so I'd appreciate a bit more info on this particular aspect of lipo storage.   Even in winter I like to be able to snatch opportunities to fly, and I am paricularly interested in what happens if I store them charged and "ready to go" in a cold garage.
  7. Thanks guys - but my pal and were were both talking about ARTF models (sorry to use such bad language in present company!).
  8. The other day a friend asked me a question that rather stumped me for a definitive answer, even though I've faced the same problem myself and simply "made a decision" without getting advice from the experts! It concerns models with tip washout which in an August RCME article was described as follows:-  "Washout is where the wing's trailing edge is twisted up at the tip relative to the root".  All well and good, but when you come to align the ailerons to neutral, do you line them up with the T/E at the root or the tip?     (I presume that if you align with the root, you negate the washout, but if at the tip, you effectively change the angle of incidence for a large part of the wing).
  9. Even better - try www.GoBrushless.co.uk/ They stock HiModel motors and sent me a 4mm shaft for specific motor by return.  Great service.
  10. Have you thought of making your own? All sorts of decals are easy to design using very simple software - including ones like "Paint"  which are free as part of Windows.  Personally I use PagePlus Desktop Publisher which also lets you scale them perfectly and is both cheap and excellent, but there are lots of others too.  It's a lot more fun than just buying them too! You can then print them out on an injet (or laser) printer.  If you want them self-adhesive, get some vinyl inkjet sheets from Overlander. 
  11. Learn something new everyday!  Never knew you could click the name and get their profile. Thanks for the pointer Eric.  And no ... they haven't moved Dumfries!
  12. My suggestion would be go for the Multiplex EasyCub.  R/E is best for a starter - bags of thinking time, self-righting hands-off if the trainee "loses it".  Copes well in reasonable wind, made of Elapor foam which is difficult to break and easy to repair, and perfectly adequate to take a trainee through to A Cert.
  13. Where is "up here" Eric? I saw a floatplane fly high over Dumfries a few weeks back - first I've ever seen outside a museum, and I saw one parked on an airfield on Google Earth - either at Carlisle or Prestwick, can't remember which it was.
  14. I'm surprised you're still waiting for an answer on this one Nick - but perhaps there aren't that many "leccies" online just now who fly bigger stuff like this - and to be frank I don't either. For what it's worth, I think you'll need something pretty hefty with a low Kv - say 850-950Kv and a big prop, and probably 4S LiPo with a separate Receiver pack .  You'll need a big ESC too so be prepared for quite a big bill for this setup.  You really need to get some advice from someone who's into the bigger electric models.  You might also try ringing BRC or Overlander as they both sell a big range of electric motors and have years of technical expertise in electric flight.
  15. And when I started, I was mystified for a while by ...   TX   (Transmitter)  RX  (Receiver)  XTAL   (Crystal) ROG  (Rise Off Ground - refers to a take-off from the ground on undercarriage)   1C     the battery charge level which would recharge the battery pack in 1 Hour  Every form of human endeavour seems to generate its own language, jargon and mnemonics.  When I started working for Michelin many years ago, I was astounded to find that internally no-one ever used the word "tyres" - they were called "covers".  I had always thought that word was just hoteliers' jargon for place-settings!  I've never understood why marketing people use jargon however, yet you see it all the time in adverts.  Maybe they only want to sell to the "initiated". Edited By Romeo Whisky on 30/10/2009 14:21:45
  16. I see lots of us think it's OK to have more than one go at this. Is that OK Mr Moderator, or Mr Competition Organiser? Is so, then how about ...    Tirade  Hot-Trainer   Ding-Bat  Fly-Babe   Fling'n'Fly  Fling-Flyer  Oh dear, now my brain is overheating again   .... !
  17. Best self-trainer in my view are Multiplex EasyStar RR (comes with everything you need except the radio and battery) or the Multiplex EasyCub.  Both are tough - a must when you start, and stable - which buys you thinking time. But whether you join a club or not please get yourself 3rd party insured by joining BMFA - you can join direct as a "country member" and then think about a club when you've moved.
  18. It's clearly a hand-launcher so my suggestion is:-    SLINGER
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