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Richard Wood

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Everything posted by Richard Wood

  1. Richard Wood
    A mystery that one. Alex has some explaining to do...
  2. Richard Wood
    Most modern glow engines are very reliable if cared for & do make a nice smell! With a decent muffler they sound great too. No reason not to enjoy electric as well. Good luck with the Acro Wot . Mine is nearly ready for a test flight - with an electric motor.
  3. Richard Wood
    Posted by Jonathan M on 10/09/2016 13:53:04: Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 14/07/2016 20:47:31: Maybe, instead of pushing this any further, is there a slightly smaller/lighter alternative to the WOT4 that will suit my existing electrics (not foam, ARTF preferably but a kit if need be)? A robust tail-wheel intermediate sports flyer with similar wing-loading and good manners, and capable of the same wide performance window? Thanks, Jon Hi Jon, Your 3S, 3300mAH battery is really too small to get good performance & duration from a Wot4 IMHO. You could consider the Uno-Wot. Not as aerobatic as the Wot4 but flies well with the reduced dihedral as detailed in the instructions. It should suit your electric set up very well.
  4. Richard Wood
    Hi Redex, I've a part completed e-Magician. One problem is the lack of room in the existing tank bay for a good-sized Lipo because of the u/c mounting former. I modified it to use a glassfibre u/c, mounted on a ply plate with the old u/c former cut out for Lipo access. The motor bolts to a 1/4" ply mount epoxied to the existing bulkhead. I can measure the fuse width later & report back.       Edited By Richard Wood on 08/09/2016 13:07:21
  5. Richard Wood
    SIG Kougar. Balsa in the kit was a bit on the hard & heavy side but a good model to build & flies well. Unusually, part of the build is to sheet the foam core wings with balsa skins.
  6. Richard Wood
    Another non-scale builder's aerobatic kit to look at is the SIG Kougar. SMC have them.
  7. Richard Wood
    Posted by Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 06/09/2016 21:22:10: I think the key thing is not to get too hung up on the numbers & the calculations.....the theory often doesn't work out in practise. Try a prop & measure the result....then go bigger or smaller until you get the power you want. Very good advice. Battery age & condition will also be significant - eg. power readings taken using a tired old LiPo will be less than those using a new battery. 'C' discharge ratings will also play a part.   Edited By Richard Wood on 07/09/2016 09:36:11
  8. Richard Wood
    Hi Kim, In my experience you would be better off going down in diameter to reduce current draw to the level required. If it helps, I ran the Emax 4020-08, the 540kV version of your motor, on a 12x8 at around 950W on a 6s & if I remember correctly, around 1250W on a 13x6. The bigger prop draws much more current. Perhaps try a 14" prop on your setup.
  9. Richard Wood
    Lovely - proper aeromodelling that is. Wish I had the patience to build that sort of model these days.
  10. Richard Wood
    Posted by Joel Pontin on 01/09/2016 13:45:09: Wow, thanks guys for your fantastic replies! I hope to go down the leccy route but will look into IC as well. Can someone recommend a suitable, entry level RC setup. This is my first time at RC model flying and having a great time building the vintage Yamamoto, all help is greatly appreciated!! 🙂 Hi Joel, First off - If you aren't already in a club it's strongly recommended that you join one. You'll get help & encouragement from most clubs - learning to fly alone can be difficult. Have a look at the R/C gear in use at the club, most modern makes are reliable & have entry level sets e.g Futaba, Hi-Tec etc
  11. Richard Wood
    You can achieve very good results using a traditional woodworker's cork sanding block and progressively finer grades of glasspaper to produce rounded edges. Good light is important but just use a little patience & keep checking progress.
  12. Richard Wood
    Posted by Joel Pontin on 31/08/2016 15:59:13: Hi, not sure this is the right place to ask this but we are building an old Yamamoto trainer and it has been recommended that we go 'electric', can anyone recommend a suitable 'budget' motor plus any advice on esc and battery... many thanks! Hi Joel, There are many possible electric combos that would be suitable, but a '4S' LiPo battery based setup would probably be best. This would be a suitable motor & ESC: **LINK** Battery: **LINK**
  13. Richard Wood
    Or a 100W iron with chisel tip.
  14. Richard Wood
    You're right KC - the X-list plans aren't cheap. This is the RM Snark :
  15. Richard Wood

    Richard Wood posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. Richard Wood
    Posted by Douglas Wheelhouse 1 on 31/08/2016 11:03:32: Hi Richard, Fancy doing one?. The only difference to the plan is I did a built up wing instead of foam. Hi Douglas, The Snark - RM plan 89 (now on the X-list) is possibly next on my build list. I've had this plan for about 30 years & not got around to building it yet! The Manxman is going on the list for a future model.
  17. Richard Wood
    It's a good looking model - the doodle of it in the plan listings doesn't do it much justice. Looks like it might fly knife edge well! Good luck with it.
  18. Richard Wood
    Not sure but possibly an RM plan - Acrobits RM159.
  19. Richard Wood
    Posted by Tomtom39 on 17/08/2016 10:45:16: I spoke to Flair some months ago and understand that they were in the process of retooling and remanufacturing some kits possibly for the latter part of the year. The puppeteer being one of them. This is very good news.
  20. Richard Wood
    This is standard Solarfilm on a veneered wing. You can get a reasonable finish with it by going easy with the iron & not sealing too firmly. Make sure edges are well ironed though!
  21. Richard Wood

    Richard Wood posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  22. Richard Wood
    Hi Peter, I haven't tried it yet but the Hobby King covering seems to be well regarded. Solarfilm works well on veneered foam wings but can show the grain if ironed down firmly, even on a very smooth sanded surface. Profilm & Solarfilm Supershrink can be better for this application. Edited By Richard Wood on 08/08/2016 11:30:24
  23. Richard Wood
    Hi Stuart, Good question - Solarlac is superb paint but I'd take care using it on foam as the solvent could attack & melt it. If you already have some Solarlac try it on a bit of scrap foam.
  24. Richard Wood
    BTW Solartrim can also be encouraged to go around compound curves - wingtips etc. with a covering iron & a bit of gentle stretching, but be careful with the iron's heat setting on foam.
  25. Richard Wood
    Hi Stuart, Solartrim works well on any smooth surface. Larger areas are usually best applied wet - like a waterslide transfer.
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