Jason Hyland

Hi All, I'm looking for a Chill Wind if anyone has one they would like to move on to a good home Failing that, if anyone has a wing spare, I'll get the plan out! Thanks, Jason

Posted by Mike Briant on 05/06/2017 08:16:58: Has anybody had problems with not being able to set up elevator rates? Aileron and rudder rates work fine but can't get elevator rates to work. Transmitter shows correct reaction on the graph but now change in the movement of the elevators. Mike, probably know, but just in case - the only thing I found was that when you do your reset/initialize you need to have your full rates active otherwise it restricts what the rx puts out. ie, if you have low rates when you reset, the rx will never move them further - even when not in stab mode.

Posted by Mike Blandford on 04/06/2017 15:43:07: To avoid CH12 accidently triggering the self check, the current requirement is CH12 changes 3 times away from and back to the centre position within 3 seconds. OpenTx V2.2 has now been released. Ersky9x firmware also supports configuring the S6R from the transmitter. Thanks Mike, I will test tonight, this makes sense to me. I'd tied the switch into my throttle enable so it wasn't active when throttle was, but this is probably double safe!

OK, so now with the BETA firmware, CH12 no longer seems to do a "reset" or initialize. - has this chnaged do you know? I don't know how long I've spent on this rx

Posted by Jason Hyland on 04/06/2017 12:57:10: Hi, I'm trying to update the setting in my S6R using the latest LUA script (2.2.0), but it appears to "hang" on the 2nd page. I'be uploaded a video to demonstrate. Anyone have any ideas? Reads OK using STK OK, appears that is requires the BETA firmare 170217 - thanks.

Posted by Andy48 on 04/06/2017 13:29:07: Receiver needs to be powered up. Thanks Andy, I should have mentioned that it is

Hi, I'm trying to update the setting in my S6R using the latest LUA script (2.2.0), but it appears to "hang" on the 2nd page. I'be uploaded a video to demonstrate. Anyone have any ideas? Reads OK using STK

Hi all, I thought I'd report back after a few weeks flying the AcroWot. This setup works like a charm. I regulalry get 7-8 minutes of flight that includes it's fair share of full throttle. It required a little lead on the tail to get the balance right but other than that I feel I have pleny of power, certainly for my standard of flight ! I can happily receommend the 4-max suggested setup and I'd also like to thank George over a 4-max.co.uk for all the help and patience he showed during my build. Thanks everyone for your help ! Jason

Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 13/08/2016 20:18:58: Just run through a similar kv motor and that prop on a 4s battery on ECalc and it says 600 watts, so with that combo there's nothing wrong with your system, also says around 3 kg (6.6lbs) static thrust, so you've got 1:1 static thrust, probably not good for pulling out of a prop hang but it won't be lacking for normal flying. Thanks Frank, I did find a chart which showed a 4s on a 550 kv giving almost 3kg thrust so I figured it would be enough. Didn't know about ecalc, one to investigate!

Thanks for the replies, all useful. A couple of things spring to mind. First 6.2 llbs is the weight of the assembled ARTF, plus battery, esc, motor, rx and servos. There is nothing special about these, so I can't see how a comparable mk2 kit would come in much less ? I'm not sure exactly what I could do to lighten ? Any suggestions where to look - perhaps the motor is quite heavy (303g) ? I guess until I fly her, I can't really tell if 100w/llbs is enough. Doesn't feel it from what I've read, but I will defer to those with the experience I'm worried what I'll have in the "tank" towards the end of the flight - at about 3.8v/cell I got about 450watts ! I will weigh her again - I did have one set of scales tell me it weighed almost 20llbs - needless to sat those aren't being used any more! Regards, Jason

Perhaps I am OK ? I just weighed the AcroWot all up she weighs in at 6.2 llbs, so with about 620W of power this gives me exacty 100watts/llb which I think is about "right" for a sport plane intending to do mild aerobatics

Posted by FlyinBrian on 13/08/2016 14:46:27: The motor specs say 5s to 8s batteries, perhaps a 4 cell pack just isn't enough. Hi, thanks for replying. It's a bit weird, the specs do indeed say that, but they also say this for the motor Prop 14x7 - 4S LiPo 13x6.5 - 5S LiPo Also, the "kit" was supplied with a 3300 4S Part Number Description Price Qty Acro Wot EP/GP (Balsa) (airframe only) Acro Wot EP/GP (Balsa) (airframe only) (RRP £139.99) £125.99 Acro Wot EP/GP (Balsa) (electric conversion kit A-CF007/ELP) Acro Wot EP/GP (Balsa) (electric conversion kit) (RRP £19.99) £18.99 Acro Wot EP/GP (Balsa) Power Set Motor PO-5055-595 ESC PP-TESC60AU Prop APCE 14x7 (RRP £111.30) £99.99 LiPo Battery 4 cell (14.8V) 40C rated, 3.300mAh LiPo Battery £43.99 Servos 4x Servo XL-38HMB £41.96   I have emailed George at 4-max, so hopefully he can put me right. Edited By Jason Hyland on 13/08/2016 14:55:01

Hi all, I'm building an AcroWot with this setup from 4 max It's essentially a 595KV motor running on a 4s with a 14x7 APC e-prop. My last test was to see the power output via the watt meter. With a fresh charge I was getting just over 600W, roughly 50-60% of what I was expecting. I'm not sure if I've done something stupid, but I'm confused. I can't seem to calibrate the throttle range on the ESC as it doesn't seem to need it - first time I've come across that, but I wondered if that was the problem? Any suggestions please!? Regards, Jason

Hi Guys, My build is progressing but I could do with some suggestions about how to complete the battery mounting plate. I'm not entirely sure how the items A,B and C should be constructed. The manual suggests "Glue the spacer and top plate to the mounting plate as shown – do not use excessive glue as the angled section of the battery plate must be able to slide freely in and out of the box section that has been created". I think the top plate is "B", mounting plate is "A, and the spacer is "C" ? I think I should glue C on A then B on C, if you see what I mean? Any suggestions ? Thanks, Jason

I can't use the tray as my packs are too large. The instructions for the EP kit are in the instructions for the acrowot. Wot a numpty, how did I miss that

Posted by Chris Lee123 on 28/07/2016 13:15:43: http://www.ripmax.com/Instructions/a-cf006.pdf Page 8 on the PDF or Page 16 in the manual. You beauty

I'd be really interested in some photo as well. I just picked up the acrowot package from 4-max, but there are zero instructions on using the EP conversion kit supplied. I guess it may be obvious to some

OK, will update this later when I have a little more time, but I slipped out lunchtime for a very quick one flight. The winner appears to be .... too nose heavy Moved battery back by an inch, and flew much better, required much less up trim. I reckon it still needs to go back a little further. More to come ....

Posted by Percy Verance on 08/05/2016 16:20:31: I wonder if shops take lipos down to their correct storage charge, or do they just stack them on the shelf until sold? My very limited experience with quad lipos is they all arrive at storage charge.

OK, so I know I should bring my LIPO's to a storage charge, but my question is when? So, my 4S has about 4v per cell currently after a flight, and I probably won't need it for a couple of weeks - should I take it down to 3.8v per cell or is that just a wasted discharge ( please, dont )?

Posted by Rob43 on 08/05/2016 12:53:28: Just a thought. I see from your photo Jason, that you have made up a motor standoff from some quite long bolts without any tubes etc. How secure and rigid is this mounting? Is it twisting and moving under torque or loading and possibly influencing the behaviour of the model? Like i say, just a thought maybe. . . Rob, I don't *think* so - I ran it at full pelt on my watt meter and didn't seen any twisting. However, I'm a belt and braces kind of guy, so would you suggest some brass tubing cut to length ?

Posted by John Muir on 08/05/2016 11:14:00: If you need up elevator now, and assuming nothing else has changed, it would sound like it is now nose heavy really. I wonder if the twitchy nature of the controls is related to the change from a small high revving prop to a bigger, slow revving one. There will be a lot of air moving over the tail surfaces at a much lower velocity and with much more in the way of a spiral slipstream effect over a larger frontal area so I wouldn't be surprised if the elevator and the rudder both had a big increase in authority. The other thing that might be happening is that the plane might simply be flying slower so you might need some up elevator trim to compensate for that. Certainly with that prop, Kv and battery combination you are going to be down on power and thrust compared to a .46 flat out on a 10x6. I remember changing the 11x5 on my Wot 4 to a 13x4 and experiencing something similar. The plane was slower but had great acceleration and improved responses at low speed. Liked the 11x5 better as it happened. I'm starting to think the same - the CG setting supposed to be measured was with empty fuel tank. The empty tank is about 80g, full it's about 300g. The battery weighs in at 480g. Not quite sure how to work out how far it should be back, I guess I'm probably able to move the battery back a bit until it improves. I'm ordering a 12x10 and maybe a 13x9 to experiment a bit. Thanks everyone for the suggestions - all very much appreciated!

Some images that might help?     Edited By Jason Hyland on 08/05/2016 11:05:33

Posted by i12fly on 07/05/2016 23:41:41: I know it isn't the same model but it is similar. My Wot 4 (balsa ARTF IC spec) I built up converted to electric. The CoG was a few mm forward of the design point. It turned out to be very nose heavy in flight and needed full available up trim to fly almost level. I had to add 2 oz of lead near the tail to make it perform correctly in the dive test for CoG. Bit disappointed I can't move the battery back..... Thanks i12fly - The CoG given in the manual was for glow, and with an empty fuel tank. I wonder if this means that the front would be lighter when balancing. I have an idea....

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 07/05/2016 22:32:33: If the thrustline was out - particularly if you have lost some intended downthrust - the effect would almost certianly be the opposite to what you describe - ie the model would need excessive down elevator. So, if not that then what could cause this? 1. Its very nose heavy - but you say not? 2. There has been a shift in either the wing or the tailplane incidence. Could the wing be moving on is seating? Could the tailplane have become unseated or its seating have changed (fuselage warped in storage?) Finally - how much is "a lot of up elevator"? Is it possible to trim the model with the elevator trim switch so it flys S&L on say 2/3 throttle? If so is there a highly visible amount of up-elevator in when you do that? BEB BEB, Thanks for the suggestions. I've read a bit online about the thrust line and as you say, I'd be seeing the reverse if it was out in this was. I will post some images shortly which I hope might spark some ideas. I remeasured the CG today. I used this manual for the reading which suggest 89mm. It suggests "The Centre of Gravity (C/G or Balance Point) should be 89mm (3.5" back from the leading edge of the wing at the root, this being the centreline of the wing joining tube. This should be measured with the fuel tank empty. Support the completed model under the wing either side of the fuselage at this point and add weight or adjust the position of the radio battery in its bay as necessary to achieve a slightly nose down attitude. " Given its now electric, it was measured with the battery installed which actually site forward of the CG - I wondered if this is throwing it off? I don't think the wings or elevator have shifted, although I guess it's possible I didn't tighten the wings down enough - pretty unlikely to be honest. As for how much is up, I'd say on the suggest throws of up to 10mm, it was about 4 or 5 mm - I didn't do a brilliant job of trimming it to S&L as I just wanted to get it down in one piece