PatMc
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Posts posted by PatMc
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14 minutes ago, Geoff S said:
Surely, the apple came first, much, much earlier, along with a serpent.
Pedant alert !
The serpent came with along with the "forbidden fruit" which was not necessarily an apple.
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1 hour ago, Peter Futers said:
Just taken the model down to try something found that if i gently touch the p/rod it all calms down?
clue thier ?
Sounds like what Martin was hinting at earlier, the wiper's probably light in feedback potentiometer or there's a bad connection. I'd be inclined to bin the servo unless you're prepared to open it up & look for an obvious bad connection first.
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Is it an electric model with BEC or does it have a separate Rx battery ?
If the latter it could be that the Rx battery is either needing a fresh charge or duff.
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Good luck, Matty. Great to hear you're making progress. 👍
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3 hours ago, Learner said:
FAI aerobatics require constant speed in manoeuvres, that involves constant throttle manipulation to achieve. so I would of thought that throttle control is probably the most used/ practiced. Is a beep that helpful?
But Toto wants to fly at a fairly constant airspeed not groundspeed in order to maintain a constant altitude without adjusting elevator trim, therefore he only needs to alter the throttle trim when/if the model has wandered above or below where it should be regardless of windspeed.
IMO a buzzer indicating trim setting would only be an unwanted distraction.
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Does the title include a typo ?
By my reckoning 1000 metres (i.e. 1 Km) in 1 min 9 secs = 32.4 MPH. I think, at a push, I could just about manage that with my Junior 60. 😉
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Isn't that quite a bit closer to home for you ?
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Sorry, I think we've both misread the meaning in each other's posts. To be clear using a slow tick over setting with electric power allows the prop to freewheel even if the esc is set to brake when power off.
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10 hours ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:
Just remember, if you're fitting electric power, that you won't get any braking effect from a stopped propeller.
Oh yes you will.
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The T31M has so much built in drag that I doubt the very small spoilers would make much noticeable difference to the descent angle. IMO a better option would be to hold the throttle to a slow tick over & let the prop create the drag.
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5 hours ago, David Davis 2 said:
Most of my four-stroke engines audibly lose a few revs when I remove the glow igniter from the glow plug on start up, otherwise they run perfectly.
Does this mean that I have the low speed needle set too rich?
David, I think that you posted this 10 days too late. 😉
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I do almost the same as Dickw but cut out the servo position first & fix a piece of ply liner at the wing tip end of the void. I find that it's not necessary to heat the end of the wite to red hot.
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2 hours ago, chris collis said:
Hi Pat, I was thinking about Bebside for their disposal.Would they take old receiver Nimhs as well?
Hi Chris, I think I've dumped some there in the past but I've also left old Nimhs & hearing aid batteries in supermarket disposal bins. I believe they are obliged to provide this facility as they sell these types of batteries.
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Chris, I'm pretty certain that there's a dedicated battery disposal area at Bebside tip. You don't need to fully discharge your battery but best to cut off each main + balance wire - one at a time.
PS : If you do want to discharge it first - plug the battery into a model & run the motor at full throttle until LV cut then re-start at low throttle & repeat.
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30 minutes ago, Brian Cooper said:
There are only a problem if/when they fall out.
Rare earth magnets are strong. Try to avoid them making physical contact or they will pull each other out from their mountings.
Putting a piece of paper between helps to keep the magnets in place.
I always use a piece of tinplate instead of one magnet. That's always been strong enough & avoids the chance of accidentaly fitting magnets with like poles together.
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It's probably over 30 years since I built the Diamond but I will have started with the cg on the sketch (No plan supplied) that came with the fuselage & wing blanks, however I know that I moved the cg back as far as I felt comfortable with over several slope side flights using the "dive test" method.
The model first flew rudder & elevator only but although it performed very well in thermal & slope comps at Primrose Valley holiday weeks the rudder response was poor. At the time I had intended using it in BARCS 100s comps (RE only) but gave up on the idea & modified the wings for ailerons set up as spoilerons. This made a huge difference to the overall handling.
I'd be interested to know what weight other peoples Diamonds are, especially the electric powered one by @Sheepish, mine is a portly 2600g but still out-soars Alulas even in light wind conditions.
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Used them with models on both 2.4Ghz & 35 Mhz, no problems despite often close proximity between magnets & aerial/Rx.
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I have a pair of them, I believe they are actually re-badged Himax 3615/1600 Link gives some useful data but I think pre-dates general lipo usage.
Used one of mine in an old Protech Unlimited (hot liner with plastic fuselage) on 3s with an Graupner 8x4.5 prop which gave about the same power as an Olly Tiger diesel. Great little model 🖕
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Of course an ic prop could be a wooden one (as on Leccyflyer's Magnatilla), which would likely be lighter than an E prop.
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2 hours ago, SIMON CRAGG said:
...I did several experiments, and found the e props much better all round, confirmed by the watt meter.
The wattmeter only measures the power input. I fail to see how it could confirm the difference in performance or efficiency of diferent props.
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IMO the wing incidence WRT the thrust line is more important. The elevator can be used to effectively sort out the tailplane/wing incidence but fettling it before you glue the tailplane in place would be better. Never had a Wot 4 but with a sports aerobatic model my own choice would be 0-0 wing/tail incidence.
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4 hours ago, Edgeflyer said:
I also need to be able to get Solartex to adhere to itself. Is it best to apply an extra heat sensitive glue?
Solartex doesn't need any extra glue to stick to itself but it's best to use the lowest temp that activates the adhesive or it will distort the edge of the overlaying fabric.
Some examples below of vintage models covered in Solartex with no paint used & except for the letters on the Jnr 60 all other decor is from Solartex scraps cut by hand & carefully applied at relatively low temp.
The Jnr 60 was about 16 years old when the pic was taken in 2002, it's since been refurbed, recovered in a different scheme & converted to electric.
The Robot was also originally ic powered but later electrocuted.
In third pic because of a wing warping problem the Deacon wings are "blushing" as they had recently been given a coat of dope in dampish conditions.
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4 hours ago, Brian Cooper said:
Quote from Wiki :
(Kirk's youngest son, Eric) Douglas entered British comedy folklore when, during a stand-up performance at The Comedy Store, London, he was angered by the audience's reaction to his stand-up routine. In a moment that would lead to club co-founder Don Ward saying he had "died on his arse", Douglas shouted "You can't do this to me, I'm Kirk Douglas's son!" A member of the audience then stood up and shouted, "No, I'm Kirk Douglas' son," ... This ended up with the majority of the audience standing up and repeating the line.
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Sorry to here that Matty. Best wishes for a full & speedy recovery mate.
A question on flaps ?
in Scale and Semi-Scale kits
Posted
Really ?
Surely the airflow over the top surface of the wing will have become detached & turbulent well before reaching the ailerons.