PatMc

Good luck, Matty. Great to hear you're making progress. 👍

But Toto wants to fly at a fairly constant airspeed not groundspeed in order to maintain a constant altitude without adjusting elevator trim, therefore he only needs to alter the throttle trim when/if the model has wandered above or below where it should be regardless of windspeed. IMO a buzzer indicating trim setting would only be an unwanted distraction.

Does the title include a typo ? By my reckoning 1000 metres (i.e. 1 Km) in 1 min 9 secs = 32.4 MPH. I think, at a push, I could just about manage that with my Junior 60. 😉

Isn't that quite a bit closer to home for you ?

Sorry, I think we've both misread the meaning in each other's posts. To be clear using a slow tick over setting with electric power allows the prop to freewheel even if the esc is set to brake when power off.

Oh yes you will.

The T31M has so much built in drag that I doubt the very small spoilers would make much noticeable difference to the descent angle. IMO a better option would be to hold the throttle to a slow tick over & let the prop create the drag.

David, I think that you posted this 10 days too late. 😉

I do almost the same as Dickw but cut out the servo position first & fix a piece of ply liner at the wing tip end of the void. I find that it's not necessary to heat the end of the wite to red hot.

Hi Chris, I think I've dumped some there in the past but I've also left old Nimhs & hearing aid batteries in supermarket disposal bins. I believe they are obliged to provide this facility as they sell these types of batteries.

Chris, I'm pretty certain that there's a dedicated battery disposal area at Bebside tip. You don't need to fully discharge your battery but best to cut off each main + balance wire - one at a time. PS : If you do want to discharge it first - plug the battery into a model & run the motor at full throttle until LV cut then re-start at low throttle & repeat.

I always use a piece of tinplate instead of one magnet. That's always been strong enough & avoids the chance of accidentaly fitting magnets with like poles together.

http://<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Su66N7q1AXI?si=iyX00NAjvqRZ17fM" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" referrerpolicy="strict-origin-when-cross-origin" allowfullscreen></iframe>Just spotted this revived post. It's probably over 30 years since I built the Diamond but I will have started with the cg on the sketch (No plan supplied) that came with the fuselage & wing blanks, however I know that I moved the cg back as far as I felt comfortable with over several slope side flights using the "dive test" method. The model first flew rudder & elevator only but although it performed very well in thermal & slope comps at Primrose Valley holiday weeks the rudder response was poor. At the time I had intended using it in BARCS 100s comps (RE only) but gave up on the idea & modified the wings for ailerons set up as spoilerons. This made a huge difference to the overall handling. I'd be interested to know what weight other peoples Diamonds are, especially the electric powered one by @Sheepish, mine is a portly 2600g but still out-soars Alulas even in light wind conditions.

Used them with models on both 2.4Ghz & 35 Mhz, no problems despite often close proximity between magnets & aerial/Rx.

I have a pair of them, I believe they are actually re-badged Himax 3615/1600 Link gives some useful data but I think pre-dates general lipo usage. Used one of mine in an old Protech Unlimited (hot liner with plastic fuselage) on 3s with an Graupner 8x4.5 prop which gave about the same power as an Olly Tiger diesel. Great little model 🖕