Helibilly

+ terminal tweaked 2032 fitted, all OK Thanks Bill W.

Ex Telephone engineer before microchips were invented. Spent a lot of my time adjusting the tensions on relays used in the telephone systems. Got a set of tensioners somewhere?? CR2032 it is then. Looking at the battery holder itcould do with a tweak!!

Thanks Don. 2032 it is then.

As you said, my mistake, the CR2032 3Volt battery is a Lithium battery. There was no battery in the Tacho when I got it. From the battery size it seemed to be about the 2032 size, but not sure. I have, CR2032, DL/CR2025 and DL2016 Lithium batteries, all 3volts but seemingly different thicknesses. What would be the best choice to try. Any ideas on the Make of the Micro Tachometer? Thanks. Bill W.

These are the photo’s I meant to attach to my previous post. Bill W.

Got this micro tacho in a recent job lot purchase of some Raptor50 bits and pieces. Who made this and what batteries does it take? Looks like a Mercury battery around the size of a CR 2032 . What would the battery be? 3volts? Thanks Bill W.

After much research it appears that the frame is a NIDACH Produced frame. Don’t seem to be many around. Unless you know differently.

I decided to convert an old Raptor 50 to electric and I have managed to get most of the bits of the Quick UK conversion kit to make a start. The problem I have come across is when using the Raptor 30V2 86 tooth main drive, there is a lot of resistance and noise when the motor turns, the mesh is too tight. I changed the 86tooth for an 85 tooth main gear and the meshing is better. The drive pinion on the Quick UK motor drive is 10 tooth. Is this correct? Should I use the 85 with the 10 drive pinion or change the Quick drive pinion to a 9 tooth, if this is possible? My own feelings are to continue with the build, but leave enough working room to change if necessary. Also missing is the canopy locating spacers. Needed because of fitting the battery tray, any ideas of what they look like?? Thanks Helibilly (Bill W).

Just awaiting delivery of new mount as a 32OS MOTOR with a different mount fits ok. Existing mount doesn’t line up, hence suspect old mount. I will let you know. Bill W.

There is no binding at all with the clutch and bell along with the starter shaft out of the heli. It seems like an alignment problem. I have tried the clutch and engine in 2 V2 frames with the same result. I have even taken the shim out from under the clutch shoe. I suspect either mounting is bent/twisted or motor holes are drilled wrong? I have no past history on this motor. Ordered new motor mount. Bill W.

Having put together many Raptors, 30’s and 50’s over the years, I have been stumped by my latest one. It is a Raptor 50 fitted with a TT 50 PRO Motor and TT mount. As with all used heli’s I buy, it has been stripped down and had all the bearings changed, had a good deep clean and rebuilt. My problem is that after the rebuild the clutch is locked up, indicating something is mis-aligned. I have loosened of the mounting to frame bolts and by moving the engine about, can get the clutch to operate as it should. As all the engine, mount and clutch fixing holes are pre drilled, they can’t be altered. The clutch bearings have been checked and are all OK. I even went to the lengths of changing the frame to a new one, with the same result. In all my many year building Raptors, this has never happened. As a last resort I am getting a new engine mount and will try a spare OS 32 motor and see how it pans out. Has Anyone had similar problems? I will report back on any findings when I have swapped out the parts mentioned. Thanks Bill W

Hi Paul, What settings are you using on the 401 gyro itself, I am using a digital servo and have it set to DS. What are your Delay and Limit pots set to? Thanks Bill W.

Hopefully on the right place, if not point me in the right direction. I am going to convert one of my Raptor 50 to electric. I have an Outlander Thumper V3 890KV motor and an 60 amp esc. Powered by a 22.2V Lipo battery. What would be the best battery to use? Thinking around 4000-5500mah? The other question is the positioning of the ESC and lipo within the frame. Although this is a known conversion, I can’t find any photo’s of the whereabouts of the positioning of the various components used. Even the 3 motor power wires can be at 4 different positions, using the QuickUK conversion kit. Any info greatfully received Thanks Bill W

Just returning to r/c heli’s and I was wondering if there were any ball park settings I could use. I am still only a hovering novice and always used AVCS MODE. I USED TO USE GY 401 exclusively but it is 20 years ago and the memory has forgotten and all my psperwork has been lost. Thanks Bill W.

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