Jump to content

Caveman

Members
  • Posts

    802
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Caveman's Achievements

115

Reputation

  1. Hi Roger, I think that your engine is even older than mine as it has the crank bearing, if that the correct term, bolted to the engine case at the front, whereas mine is a complete casting. The carb on mine doesn’t have the black shroud on the throttle lever side. I don’t know if that’s intentional or it’s dropped off or rotted away! In any event it seems to work OK so I’ll leave it well alone. GDB
  2. Ha! Thwarted, the file size is too big and I’m not able to condense it at the moment. If it’s still relevant I can post it in a couple of day’s time. GDB
  3. Hi Roger, is your engine the same as this, with the large ‘circular’ carb? It’s an SC61, quite old bought from club mate for £10. It’s a really good engine. I have it fitted to a Panic bipe, using a 13x6 prop. It picks up really well with no hesitation and pulls strongly. The fuel is (very old) Southern Modelcraft 5% and the plug is an OS no.8 I’ll try to add a video so you hear it in action. GDB
  4. Google FS-B1700 battery, there are lots available, mostly from China. They seem to be 1600 mAh, but that shouldn’t be a problem. GDB
  5. Hi Geoff, when I subtly reshaped the nose of my Multiplex Funcub so that no longer had the strength or shape to be functional, I decided to replace it. However, it was during the depths of the Covid epidemic and no-one had stock of a suitable replacement. So I decided to discard the fuselage completely and re-utilise all the electrics, the wings and tail and build a new fuselage from scratch. I carefully measured the remains of the original fuselage and drew up a plan for its replacement. As I had a large sheet of 3mm lite-ply in stock I used this for the sides and the bulkheads, balsa for the top and bottom sheeting and 6mm ply for the firewall. Inevitably the finished fuselage is a little heavier than the old foam one, but the 'new' one flies just as well as the original. It was well worth the effort and is a pleasure to fly - I think you're doing the right thing! GDB PS The wings have been through a few traumas as well - perhaps it's time to build some new ones 😁
  6. This one caught my eye. I’ve got the 61 version of a similar vintage and it’s a really good engine. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256427868592?itmmeta=01HR9CZXDMM0PQBE6PMARHV3BD&hash=item3bb44ac1b0:g:PrgAAOSw4e9l3wc5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8A9urEFJW9djzv1QzdLYONBiQtdhQlugna%2FOnbhwVwZLheen5e8aOID6k7VWESOlPVzrQ4cCAsU6FtVxATu1Wq4JilB%2F%2BwtOj67GJDiiIk3lv7YJlb0hdT2Ez559AwyPMw%2FxfgT9OxulsyEDJ48b4Q81IWBi801VJ24O4JrAhOJt6KSWoJKwdwDAJG0W8mgp1DMY4r9feTvX40Q06iafZImUOox9GZkRFSQ%2BroGKGoCBLp6r9VfOZiuTtNDVXCwq7DlCKSTkcDSi3KYjlCDhq1d%2FNlilAe9WW4Xmdr5Tcd78fWkzCET7jPUgCdMZiV40kA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4rX_6zCYw Only a couple of hours to go until it’s finished though. GDB
  7. Hoochy, for my money, 40 to 46 two stroke or 52 to 61 four stroke would be ideal for the Sky 40. Anything less would be under-powered, anything more would be over-powered. I would, for simplicity and reasonably low cost, suggest a 46 two stroke would be ideal. There are a few suitable engines on Ebay at the moment, both new and used. I would look at new and new (other) as there’s more chance the engine will be undamaged/badly worn. GDB
  8. Neddy, I think that you are in Australia. It would appear that piano wire is also known an Spring Wire and Music wire in Oz. Have a look here - they sell 0.813mm dia. Spring Wire in 900mm lengths, which should be OK for your requirements. Spring Wire (Size Table) (hobbyparts.com.au) GDB
  9. Neddy, your plane uses a pushrod system very similar to that used by Multiplex, i.e. a thin piano wire pushrod running in a plastic outer tube. My Multiplex Easyglider uses a linkage stopper, as you describe, at the control horn end (with apologies for the poor photo) - With a Z bend at the servo end - The piano wire pushrod is 0.8mm diameter, inserted into a close fitting plastic tube that in turn runs in a larger diameter plastic tube - you should be able to see this in the above photo. A piano wire of SWG 20 (0.914mm dia. ) would fit into the smaller tube. If you have retained the plastic tube then I would keep it simple and use a length of piano wire. Check what is the largest diameter which will fit with a good sliding fit in the tube and which will also fit into the linkage stopper, and use that with a Z bend at the servo. SWG 21 is 0.814mm dia and would be a direct replacement for the original. GDB
  10. It's 3 channels, aileron, elevator and motor, or, 2 channels, aileron and elevator. Pegasus Models also sell the same kits and list a suitable motor, ESC etc. GDB
  11. How about the SLEC Coyote glider Coyote Glider 1320mm (52") span (slecuk.com) It can be built as a powered or non-powered version. I haven't built a Coyote (but quite fancy one at some time), but I have built, flown and destroyed (mid-air collision) an SLEC Funfly. The quality of the kit, and the illustrated instructions, were excellent, and I can only assume that the Coyote kit is likewise. There are also some build videos and blogs online if needed. GDB
  12. Ah! Good news Neddy. Have fun! GDB
  13. Neddy, I've been doing a bit more investigation. The nearest Art-Tech transmitter manual I can find is for the EFlyETB4 : EFly ETB4 User-Manual-1006698.pdf Is this very similar or the same as yours? The manual mentions connecting the simulator port on your transmitter to the mic port on the computer exactly as you describe. It than goes on to give instructions for the setup of Windows, followed by the installation and running of the FMS Flight Simulator. See here FMS Homepage (modelsimulator.com) Therefore it could be that your 'simulator port' is only compatible with this particular set-up - I really don't know - or it could be possible to connect it to Phoenix. There may be others on the forum that can advise you further. At the end of the day you could download the FMS simulator (which is compatible with Windows 😎 and follow the instructions and get that running. GDB
  14. Hi Neddy, no, you don’t need the DVD. I assume that you’ve downloaded the Phoenix files from RC-Thoughts.com and installed them following their instructions? GDB
  15. Neddy, I have exactly the same dongle as you, which works perfectly with Phoenix. First thing, the sliding switch MUST be in the 4. Phoenix RC4 for the dongle to work with Phoenix. I am running Phoenix on Windows 10, but previously ran it on Windows 7 Denis says that the transmitter should be switched off, but that is not necessarily the case - for my FrSky Taranis it needs to be switched ON in order to work with Phoenix. I may be able to help if you, but I need to have a look at a couple of things tomorrow - I'll be back! GDB
×
×
  • Create New...