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Chris 'Chops' Dore

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  1. Nice and bright John, hope the maiden flight goes well. Chris
  2. Thanks for all your positive comments, looking through the forum a while ago I just thought I had to come up with something different and looks like I achieved it. Its all the better that it actually flies as well. look forward to Greenacres, hopefully I wont bin it before then!
  3. Here's my first attempt at an auto gyro, I call mine BATom Special (for obvious reasons). First flight yesterday, after some frustration not getting the head to spin up I waited for a bit more breeze then it got off with no problem. I wish I had put a steerable tail wheel on as our patch has just been cut for first time this season and gyro doesn't like steering at all. Anyway very impressed with the flight, no real issues other than orientation which others have already mentioned especially with my colour scheme, may have to add some colour to the top of the blades. And landed without damage, not bad for a first gyro flight. Basically built to plan with some minor mods as suggested by other builders. Batman logos hand cut from solarfilm, ok from a distance.
  4. I meant to sign up ages ago but seems I didn' actually do it, anyway I've built the Atom Special from the plan, but with modified flex plate to support the whole area of the blade root as someone had suggested. First flight yesterday, great success with only minor trim needed and am very happy with this first auto gyro, although as others have said orientation is a bit of a problem and my black and red colour scheme doesn't really help. Thanks Richard for such a great design. I'll post pictures in the thread for them. Just got hold of a model designs FW190 CNC kit which I also hope to finish in time for Greenacres
  5. HI, just seen this forum thread, I have a Seafire, and as everyone elses the Oleo leg broke. I have replaced the aluminium tube with 12mm steel, bought from B&Q, just had to run a 10mm drill down once cut to length then drill the holes and slot, work perfect now. As for the retract mechanism, I am using the stock mechanical ones and have had no problem. I use a Hitec retract servo which has been faultless. Any mechanical retract does rely on good mechanical set up with straight rods etc. looking a the photo I suggest (as others have) that the bends should be made so that the rod is exactly pushing in line, then it should all work ok.
  6. If it's not too late my votes are for: 1 - Whittman tailwind 2 - Atom special
  7. HI Tiny, there could be many reasons for this, it sounds like either your servos(s) are not holding their centre position or the aileron hinges are too stiff and not letting the servos centre properly. do you have one or two servos? I suggest removing the linkages and checking the servo(s) are returning to their neutral positions correctly. At the same time check for stiffness of the hinges. ideally the control surfaces should fall freely under their own weight, depending on size etc. but anyway there should be no stiffness. If there is the only solution is to remove the ailerons and re hinge them, I would suggest using pinned hinges fixing them in with epoxy and putting a cocktail stick through to peg them into the wing and aileron. in the good old days when a 450mAh RX battery was the norm it was even more critical to ensure hinged surfaces were free to move without any slop otherwise the battery drained during the flight. Hope this helps Chris
  8. Hi David, glad to hear you're getting on so well. the simplest method I use for RX and ESC mounting is to use cyano to cover the balsa wood surface, thin is best as it soaks in well. when dry this gives a pretty good surface to then use either self adhesive velcro of double sided servo tape. Traditionally in IC powered planes it is necessary to wrap the rx in foam to protect it from the high frequency vibrations but in electric planes that problem doent seem to exist. However the foam wrapping will still work well and can be held in plave by a stragecially placed or glued in piece of balsa. Hope this helps. Chris
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