Alan Wood

Thanks for the advice, I'll keep them in mind if I go down the new route. I was hoping for a used one to keep the budget down as this is for a cheap vintage aerobatic model.

Hi, I am after a used tuned pipe that would suit an O.S. BGX-1 3500. I've looked on google and I think some options are ideally a O.S. T-6000 (72102010) or maybe a Bolly 3002? The O.S. BGX-1 is 34.97 cc (2.13 cu.in.) so if there is something suitable for that size engine.

Hi, I'm looking for EPP foam but I can't find a source in the UK that sell anything over 45mm thick. Any suggestions? Cheers, Alan

Modela parts will probably be hard to find. Try the following: http://www.samsmodels.com http://flitehook.net

http://www.tonynijhuisdesigns.co.uk/ME109-30.htm

RIP. I met him once, a truely great man.

Examiners should be re-tested and so should 'B' fliers. I have seen sooooo many who don't meet the basic standards. I would say at least half of the pilots who fly at shows aren't competent enough to fly at shows. I put this down to friends testing/examining friends. This is evident by the amount that can't land in a crosswind. It is too easy to forget that we are flying machines that could easially kill someone, and anyone who flies one at a show should be cabable of controlling that machine.

A = Pilot Hopper 30H Trainer B = Wot4 Mk2 (old kit built one)

Aerofly 5 is the best I've flown followed by Phoenix and then Real Flight. None of them have brilliant physics but they are all ok to practice on.

You have the right attitude, this is key. You want to progress, many modellers are happy if it lands in the field anywhere and don't dicipline themselves to improve. Try thinking manouvers through first, if you don't know what you should be doing before you take off your not likely to figure it out in flight. Then brake up the manouver into parts and practice it bit by bit. The right aircraft makes a big difference to learning.

I suspect that twist was just overstressed, funfly models aren't designed to be flown at anything above half throttle in level flight, full power should only be used when necessary like hovering. Another reason I would suspect it was overstressed is thats a .90 2-stroke in a .60 size model!

Boos Boy, The J!VE will knife edge and with authority (I've KE looped it) and I have nearly got a nice rolling harrier with it but it is the wrong type of model for high alpha 3D, anything more advanced than a prop hang that is. You need a full 3D plane opposed to a funfly model for that, in IC terms planes like the Hangar9 Kantana 50, Weston Capiche etc.... The way I think about it is funfly models use the wing to create lift and fly and where as 3d models don't they use brute force and angles of attack.

"old square shoe box", not what I was going for when designing it, lol. Alan (J!VE designer)

I always recommend 6 bands to hold the wing on, any less allows the wing to move too much and is noticible in flight.

Full kits are kind of dead now, there's so many CNC plan packs that you get a better choice that way. http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/group/619/plan-packs http://www.trapletshop.com/za/c/1208/laser-cut-wood-packs

Perhaps a PVA based glue like RC modellers glue? Dries clear also.

Get an ARTF trainer now, join a club and learn to an 'A' standard minimum. Its not a legal requirement but it is by far the best way to start flying bigger models. Lancasters are actually quite easy to fly but you have to treat them with respect and plan your next manouver before you start it as they are quite slow to do things. I would also highly recommend electric, you need a reasonable bit of experience to be able to set up and run 4 IC engines reliably. If you are not in a rush I would also recommend that you build the smaller electric one first.

Anything with over 6kg of torque will be fine, and I would look for one with a speed around 0.15 sec/60deg would be nice. Something like a New Power XLD-38HMB?

Hangar 9 Pulse XT 40 with 3152's are a good match. The 3152 is a standard spec digital servo, same speed as a 148 but with more torque. You won't notice much difference in performance on that model with anything above that. :D

Basically the only advantage with Digital servos is thier holding power the power to the control surface varies with movement on normal servos but its more constant with digitals. Digital doesn't affect speed, it just tends to the that top spec servos are digital. Speed and torque are the biggest factors in choosing a servo. I can't speak for others but I can easially tell the speed of a fast servo vs a slower one. There are so many servos because they all have a time and a place that suits them best.

Re-Post, doh! Edited By Alan Wood on 23/04/2013 10:53:24

I need that vulcan, I'll never get around to building it but I want it! I still haven't finished that lancaster yet tony and I think I was one of the first to get a plan pack lol.

Is that a vulcan!

I second everything above. Sounds like a CG issue to me.

Red Tails is horriffic, its the epitome of how hollywood screw up aviation movies. The CGI is horriffic and the plot is generic trash.