mothy

Hi Matt, I am in the middle of building one of these and I have to say that it is a fairly complex build - even if you used the CNC pack. I have been modelling for 30 years and although I don't build scale models much I have built enough sportsters. I got my retracts from Hobby King -they are the electric ones and I got some UC legs from the same source. Standard , good quality, servos will suffice for this one with perhaps good quality minis for the ailerons. By good quality I mean HiTec, Futaba, JR etc and you do not need digital servos. Most of the people that buy them don't need them ! However, if you havent bought anything yet I would go for a 46 i.c trainer such as the Irvine Trainer. Then I would build a low winger such as the Mick Reeves gangster from his kit - to go from ARTF to scratch build is ambitious and this would get you some building experience. And spitfires can be a little tricky to fly.

Comment on this 'plane. Built my first one in 1983. Every time I crash it the wing survives and the fuselage does not. So I have just built another ( 3 fuselages on)with 2013 fuselage and 1983 wing !! They fly great on a 0.15 glow and these days the electric power works well - first two glow powered - last one electric. Big tailplane so elevator is actually quite powerful- be prepared to kill a very steep climb out - not sure how they flew these rudder only back in the day - probably more skilled than I am at trimming.

Not a reply to any specific post - but a friend of mine in our club built one of these - he did not put retracts in but did modify for flaps -split flaps as per original. I'm not sure what engine - its a 2 stroke and I think its quite an old OS 60. Flies really well.

Have several SC and Asp engines - they are almost the same. The very early ones had poor carbs - some worked and some did not. Later ones are good. After a couple of years the needle valve O ring tends to rot and causes bad running. Main bearings, partic the rear one, can have a short life.

Sideways or inverted is not a problem. Whatever fits and is consistent with getting a match between tank fuel level and needle valve level. In my experience (30 yrs) needle valve level needs to be about two thirds up from bottom of tank level. Do be aware that inverted engines, if flooded, can lock up and a powerful starter might bend the con rod. The 45 degree mounting which puts the silencer along the bottom centre line is a good way to go but still prone to flooding lock up.