David Patrick

Did you mount yours up front where there's airflow or in the main fus? Thanks for the reply by the way after so long

Hi Rob43 I know this is an old thread but I'm thinking of the same thing with my SuperCub - question is - where and how did you mount the ESC? Thanks

Hi All, Has anyone any advice on installing AR6210 in my Easystar 2 model? I've just received one and an AR6210 receiver - but how to install? I've seen you need to install at 90% to each other (main receiver and satellite receiver) but there doesn't seem to be enough room to do this, e.g. the receiver wires would be bent if I didn't cut a small hole in the fuse. Has anyone any experience with the Easystar install or could share some pics please? Thanks

Thanks to all responses - found them really helpful. I've got the charger and batteries and just tried the 2200mAh on balanced charge; however, it only charged to 98% when checked using a Fusion LiPo digital battery capacity checker. Is this normal? Do LiPo batteries ever reach 100% charge? Thanks

Hi all, I'm in the process of converting to electric flight and all my experience so far has been with charging TX & RX batteries using supplied chargers. I'll be getting a Schumacher CORE RC CR161 UAC-50 Charger and need to know what the set-up needs to be for the following (I've read the instructions for the charger online but I'm still confused!) * Hobbyzone 11.1V 1300mAh 14.4Wh LiPo (15C continuous 20C burst) - this battery says to charge at 1C * Overlander 11.1V 1350mAh 14.9Wh (45C continuous 90C burst) - this battery says it can charge up to 5C under urgent needs but recommend 2C * Overlander 11.1V 2200mAh 24.5Wh (30C continuous 50C burst) - this battery says to charge at 2C All of these are 3S. With these batteries how do I know what to set-up on the charger? Is there an auto setting with balance charging? The 1st battery is from a Hobbyzone super cub which also came with a charger with balanced connector only - hence a simple plug in jobbie without needing to know much about settings etc... Any help gratefully received

I think you are better to get the cables and CD together - i don't think you'll save much by getting the cable and disk separately. Without the cable the s/w will not keep itself up to date and even worse you'll not be able to fly! I'd also recommend the demo before purchase so you can check your PC is up to running the sim.

Hi All Is there anything small enough to fly indoors - in my house? Would need to be small enough to fly slow and I'd prefer a plane rather than heli but realise I may be restricted on choice here! Also, would need to be robust enough to spend quite a bit of time in a travel bag while working away... Also, given the really bad weather this year anything capable of flying at any time (front room or hotel room) keeps the fingers busy! Cheers,

Posted by flytilbroke on 30/04/2012 12:30:13: Swithering about replacing my ten year old loptop. So the question I need the answer for. Ccan I put Phoenix on my main 'puter AND the laptop without paying extra? I think this is Ok as long as you don't use both at the same time - which would be very difficult. I would always check with Phoenix if you're worried but in theory what are you are doing is no different than uninstalling/reinstalling on another computer - and the license is "tied" to the USB adapter anyway...

A big thanks to Steve up to now - and I finally managed to get to the flying field today - a bit windy - a few drops of rain but today was all about ground testing. I filled up as usual - started as usual and kept the first test run to about 15 minutes. Motor ran well as expected - still a little rough around 1/2 throttle though. I taxied around for a little while and then brought the plane back for run #2. I refilled as usual started up as usual - engine still running fine but usual slight rough at 1/2 throttle again. Taxi run cut short this time due to gust of wind under the wing and tipped the nose in to the soft grass.... The third run was interesting - I filled up again as usual - started as usual but decided to let the engine run until the tank ran out - which it did a good 20 (or could me more like 25) minutes later (large tanks in the Seagull). What was interesting was the engine ran much better in the 2nd half of the test. There doesn't seem to be any problem with tubing or air leaks which was suspected before - the engine ran fine - without missing a beat in the last 10 minutes today. That's where I had to leave it for today - but some food for thought - at least I had three good runs ranging from 15 - 25 mins. I did end up replacing the fuel tank to another replacement Boomerang "standard" fit - so something could have been wrong with the original - or the carb I replaced a while ago... but what I do find interesting was the last 10 minutes today - engine ran smoothly across the whole rev range - and I left it sat at 1/2 throttle for a while. The engine noise decreased (for some reason) during this last run which coincided with the engine running smoother.... So I wonder why with less fuel in the tank the engine seems to run better (or at least it did today)

is anyone still on?@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

plug has never been changed - even after run-in - i've an os no 8 on order which seems to be a good all-rounder. the plug which came with the engine was a OS no 6 aka A3. I know the difference between the two is heat - A3 = hot, No 8 = medium heat but haven't a clue what this means and whether i've ordered the right thing! Have i done the right thing or is the Enya equivalent to No 8? i run with 10% nitro fuel which is recommended but others have said they run with 5% nitro and again - haven't a clue about that either... THanks @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi - i can't remember any occurrences of rough running when i first started learning where the flight times were further apart. There's definitely a build-up of something or other. The other difference i guess with the first flight is the tank is emptied after each flying session - but just refilled after each flight.@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Between flights the time varies depending on who's at the flying field - if busy can be 10-15 mins - if not busy anything from a couple of mins to 5-10 mins - so variable   @import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

That's interesting - what was the main difference with the slec fuel tank to the boomerang standard one?@import url(http://www.modelflying.co.uk/CuteEditor_Files/Style/SyntaxHighlighter.css);@import url(/CuteEditor_Files/public_forums.css);

Hi   Each flight lasts about the same amount of time - 5-1 0 mins tops - I don't do anything other than take off, fly circuits then land the best I can. There have been a couple of hard landings - a couple of which the prop made contact with ground - but no nose dives until this week after engine cut out.   On the first flight the engine runs smoothly - on the 2nd flight you can start to hear the engine running rough - on the 3rd flight the engine starts spluttering, you can hear engine RPM increasing and decreasing as if it's struggling. Strangely the engine's worse when it's opposite where I'm standing - but this could be acoustics rather than a problem - I'm also considering radio gear and whether battery runs down quickly and it loses reception. I did the range check with help from an experienced flyer at our site - so i think it was ok at some time or other. Radio may also explain why it's ok on ground and worse in the air - battery life/servo's could explain how the situation degrades. When the engine was really bad on the 4th flight this week I did try opening the throttle but the engine didn't respond at all - in fact it could have been this which chocked it and made it stall. I also refuel after each flight so the tank is full - i never fly without refuel. As the flights are are all the same length the level of fuel at the start and end of the flight remains constant (if that makes sense) - so i don't think fuel level could be the problem. The level is high in the tank when I start each flight and uses the same amount each time.   While the engine's out of the plane I thought I'd take a look under the cylinder head - the liner looks purple as if it's scorched due to heat. What should the liner look like?   I suppose i need to run the engine on the ground until I can replicate the problem...   One thing I did think of was the engine was never run in properly based on what I've read since starting out. The engine was allowed to run rich though and I don't think it's ever been allowed the run max RPM - but the liner being purple may be a give away if it is overheating?? Or is this normal?