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John Stephenson 2

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Everything posted by John Stephenson 2

  1. Hi Ken, Steve, Paul, Peter & Kev, Many thank for your replies & advice which I will follow, and previous engine advice from Big Bandit on my build thread. Tomorrow morning, I will make sure the glow start is fully charged cause the plug wasn't glowing very brightly today. Every fuel pipe will be cleaned out and I'll give it another go. Ken - I never put a starter on my LMS list cause read somewhere that they can cause engine damage. Instead of the rubber finger, I now use a stick now after the "incident". Paul - I wont touch the idle screw just yet, think it's best left alone when you are not too sure what you are doing. I thought this no starting issue might be down to the plug type but as no-one has commented on it, I will continue to use it but order an OS no. 8 as a back up as Kev says. I'll post results tomorrow good or bad!!!! John
  2. Could someone help please - this is my first engine. I have a new SC15 which I started to run-in a few weeks ago but, unfortunately, it only ran for about 10 seconds, threw the prop and gashed my hand on it's way into a hedge!! Fully healed, I had another go today. Spent 2 hours flicking the prop and hardly a peep out of it. On the 9th or 10th flick it would fire up and immediately quit - leave it a few seconds then the same again - 9 or 10 flicks, briefly fires up and quits. The engine is fitted on a test stand, the fuel tank is at the correct level in relation to the needle valve, all pipes are correct, using a 9 x 4 plastic prop, fuel is formula Irvine Contest 10, a cold day and the plug is a Model Technics 4 stroke with catalytic coil (SuperCat 4 stroke glow plug) - I bought this type of plug as it was recommended by Just Engines for inverted 2 strokes. However, I have since mounted the engine vertically in the model and am testing vertically. The main needle is 2.1/2 turns open and set the throttle 1/2 open. I'm using a JP glowstart and the plug glows. I'm turning the prop anticlockwise. Have varied the main needle and throttle settings and it's made no difference. Have not touched the slow running jet. I'm stumped - will it ever go or should I bin it and get an OS 15LA. John P.S. I've had the silencer apart and there is nothing in it - should there be baffles.
  3. Messed that up - just like the glazing. Here's a pick of quickly assembled model John
  4. A bit more progress - the plastic which the model shop sent me was too thin for the cabin windows, so I made them from plastic milk bottles. I stuck this "glazing" on the inside of the cabin which left a 1/16" rebate on the sheet balsa on the outside. I finished this off with 1/8" plastic covered flex from an old audio lead. Looks ok from 15'. I then assembled the plane for the photo. John
  5. A bit more progress - the plastic which the model shop sent me was too thin for the cabin windows, so I made them from plastic milk bottles. I stuck this "glazing" on the inside of the cabin which left a 1/16" rebate on the sheet balsa on the outside. I finished this off with 1/8" plastic covered flex from an old audio lead. Looks ok from 15'. I then assembled the plane for the photo. John
  6. First of all, love the pics of the old bikes. Dad would never left me have a bike as a youth. All my working life I could never afford one. Retired, passed my test at 64 and three quarters years of age - now on my fourth Harley. A beautiful Dyna Supa Glide Custom. John
  7. Hi Chris, Many thanks again for your help & guidance. I'm happy to forge ahead now. I quite like the wing construction and am looking forward to the build. Your Super 60 & Matador builds helped a great deal in the contruction of my last model. Cheers, John
  8. Hi Chris, Can you help please. Am about to start a Mini Super build as a 2nd model from a Ben Buckle plan and have worn out page 9 & 10 of your Super 60 build trying to figure out the wing construction. Still can't understand why you have notched the ribs for the lower trailing edge of your 2nd set of wings. Have I got this right - Pin lower leading edge sheeting to plan Pin lower rib caps to plan Pin lower trailing edge sheeting to plan Pin & glue lower stringers to plan Pin and glue ribs to plan. Your help would be appreciated. Thanks for all the hints and tips. John
  9. Martin K - followed your suggestions for applying dope to wing. Clamped when touch dry and the wing is as flat as a sheet of glass after a couple of days. Thanks, John
  10. Chris, Thanks for that. I will follow your run-in procedure and not go "bull at a gate" as I did yesterday. Will leave it a week for hand to heal and possibly wear one of my old winter leather biking gloves next time !!! John
  11. Another fine mess !!!! Could do with a bit more help please - the last task I have to do on the fuselage is to install the engine. Not having started or seen a model engine before, I Googled "running in" as the instructions for my new SC15 are a bit vague. Got the engine to run ok but it would not rev above half to three-quarter throttle - it just dies and stops every time. I'm using Model Technics Contest 10 fuel and the high speed needle is 2.25 turns out. Have not touched the idle needle. Am I doing something wrong? Had another go today - she fired up ok, the propellor flew off and landed 20 feet away, on its travels it left a very nasty gash on the back of my hand. Was a bit frightened to have another go, so packed in for the day. The prop nut was on good and tight and I suspect it started in reverse but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, John
  12. Thanks all for your encouraging remarks. Martyn K - I was just going to dope the complete wing in one go. Will now take your advice and do it in stages, fastening down until dry. Don't want to wreck the model at this stage - it's been a long haul !! Yes, it is a first build although I built a few 15" rubber powered models when an apprentice at Hawker Aircraft, Squires Gate, Blackpool back in the early 50's. Building various canoes, boats, house extensions, pig sties, chicken huts, cattle shelters, etc. has all helped hone my skills !! John
  13. Made a mess of posting above pics!!! However, wing now covered in white nylon prior to applying shrinking dope. John
  14. The fuselage is now completed. Have made a start on the wing which went together ok, although I did have to put the end of the 1/16" sheeting in a boiling kettle for a few minutes to sort out the compound curve at the wing tips. John
  15. Hi Lee, FlyBoy 3 & Chris,   Thanks for the fuel info - have not fired up engine yet, still trying to figure out the running-in procedure described in the SC instruction manual. It seems a bit vague to me!!   Model has had a coat of fuel proofer, everything is installed - engine, servos, battery, fuel tank, controls, etc. - and weighs 2 lb 1 oz ex wings & fuel. Would this be normal or overweight for the completed fuselage of a 48" vintage model.   Thanks, John
  16. Just finished covering fuselage with nylon this morning. Have applied one coat of 50/50 shrinking dope/thinners to the fuselage & tailplane. The covering is now tight as a drum.   1) Does it need any further coats of dope?   2) Will a coat of fuel proofer shrink the nylon further?   Thanks in advance, John
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