Brian Cooper

Bring em on   Ali's (huge) Skyraider:

Retracts certainly make a model look “right” when flying, but there could be a significant weight penalty on a model of only 48” wing span.   Overcoming the extra weight by adding extra power is not necessarily going to help. The main problem is going to be the increased wing loading, which will adversely affect the handling and also increase the stalling speed. It will have to land at significantly higher speeds just to prevent it from falling out of the sky.     In short, if it’s too heavy it will be fairly unpleasant to fly.   B.C.

About 15 years ago my wife put her foot down.  She threw one of my models onto the floor.  She stood there, with her hands on her hips, looking angry, and announced, Its either those models or me. Youve got to laugh at these no-brainers they come out with, eh?   I helped her to pack, and I have enjoyed a blissfully peaceful, divorced life ever since.   B.C.

Sorry about the multiple postings, but the "system" didn't seem to be responding. And then it did....... all at once.   Now I can't find how to delete two of the posts...   B.C.

I don't know about the ASP 52F/S, but I have got one ASP 70 F/S, three ASP 90F/S, and four ASP 120F/S engines.  I run them on Prosynth fuel with 10% nitro and they are all brilliant engines.  Very reliable and no need for a glow-driver.   I have also has the ASP 52 two-stroke engine and that was good too.   B.C.

A dry, four-stroke engine can be primed effectively by placing a finger over the exit hole in the end of the silencer..... but only if the engine has a pressure feed to the fuel tank. Blank off the silencer and turn the prop.  The exhaust pressure will force fuel into the carb.  Works on two-strokes too.  B.C.

 If there’s a cure for having too many models, I don’t want it. B.C.

My flying field is only 2 miles away, so it isn’t too much hassle to go back home and get another model. I usually take two models.  At the weekends, the club trainer comes along too, just in case someone wants a go.   B.C.

Are you really going to let your kid sit in that thing while he eats his ice-cream..?

I have a RCGF 26 cc petrol engine in a 72” span Spitfire, and it performs very well. The only “niggle” I have with it is that it won’t draw fuel from the tank when flicking the prop by hand, even with full choke on.   It has to be primed with an electric starter. But other than that it is a sweet and reliable engine. However, if you’re looking for pure power, there are more powerful engines on the market.   B.C.

Would it be possible to post a picture of the model?  There are many people on here who could probably recognise the model and then be able to give the C.G. information. B.C.

The Blackhorse Ultimate is a fabulously good aeroplane.   It is well-built and flies superbly.  Mine has stood the test of time (it is about three years old) and still gets taken out to play (thrashed) on a very regular basis.   It weighs about 9 or 10 pounds and is powered by an ASP 120 F/S.  This has proved to be sufficient power to go vertical, and is just about “right” for this particular model.   Another plus point is that it (just) fits into my estate car without having to go through the fiddly task of remove the wings, so the model stays assembled all the time.   It’s a very easy aeroplane to live with, and huge fun.   B.C.  

Okay... just to whet a few taste buds, our flying field here in Wellingborough (Northants) has some superb facilities.How many other fields can offer flood lighting for night-time shocky flying, proper toilets, proper car parking (not axle-deep in mud) and even a fully licensed bar on site?  http://www.ogeesmfc.co.uk/ Sadly, we can’t control the weather, and it’s persisting down with rain here too at the moment. B.C.

Ahhh, right.   Thank goodness it wasn't a dreaded MDS. Yup, you're right -- Just Engines are a truly excellent company to deal with.  B.C.

A buddy of mine did almost the same thing a few years ago. Off he went into the tall, yellow crops to retrieve his pride and joy --- and he was gone for ages. When he finally re-appeard, he had a completely different model.  He had found someone else's model, but not his own one.... B.C.

Ernie, I know that you are reluctant to reveal the make of the engine, but I hope it isn’t an MDS.   If it is, it will simply never work properly. Those wretched piles of Russian crap had such poor quality control that virtually every component would expand at different rates as they became hot. After a couple minutes’ running, it was certainly nothing unusual for the crank-case backplane to leak air and so lose primary compression…. Resulting in the traditional (for MDS) deadsticks.  Another “gem” was air leaks around the carburettor as soon as the crank-case got hot.  B.C.

In 1960, I was just a little lad of 6 years of age.  In those days I was flying rubber-powered, balsa models which came in a plastic bag and slotted together in about 60 seconds.  Good old Sleek Streaks…!! It wasn’t until I was 8 that I bought my first I.C. engine and begun to discover the delights of free flight models. After saving up my pocket money for about a year, I bought my very first set of radio when I was 10.  It was a second-hand set of super-regen (only one model could be in the sky at a time) single channel radio by ED, complete with a valve Tx. This was replaced very quickly by a superhet (up to 6 models in the sky … woo-hoo) “wee” MacGregor single channel outfit – which was totally useless.  It spent more time back at the factory than at the flying field.  MacGregor’s finally gave me my money back and I rushed out and bought an RCS single channel outfit --- which worked perfectly. Around the age of 12, I got an RCS 10 channel reeds outfit.  This was superb.  Multi channel flying at last.  It was ultra reliable and I had huge fun with it in a Senior Falcon, and a few other models. At the age of fourteen I bought my first digital proportional outfit --- a Simprop 5, and built myself a Gangster 52, fitted a powerful engine, and just had loads of fun burning holes in the sky, and terrifying the worms with fast, low passes.  And since then, aeromodelling has remained a way of life --- the novelty has simply never worn off. B.C.

I have one of these models with an ASP .91 F/S, running a 14x6 APC prop.   There is plenty of power available and the model will happily go vertical. B.C.

I reviewed the larger Trojan for RC Model World.  I am happy to report that the model has been flying regularly for several months and is still flying extremely well.    It gets put through all the usual aerobatics and, so far, nothing has broken or fallen off. I had a TopGun Ultimate which fell to pieces too.  Sadly, it only started to fall apart after the review had gone to print, and it was too late to "pull" it.    One to avoid.  If you want a really good Ultimate, the Black Horse one is superb.  My one has been thrashed mercilessly for many months and it just keeps coming back for more.  It flies brilliantly and is a rugged beast which has stood the test of time.                                                                        B.C.

My model flying career stretches back into the 1960s.  I began flying R/C in 1964, at the tender age of 10.  It was so many years ago, yet it seems like it was only yesterday. Sadly, no piccies available here --- but I believe my mother has a few to embarrass me with. B.C.

I think it will be a case of "try it and see."   They will either work, or they won't. Crystal seem to be able to cope OK with flying on cold, damp winter days,.  Indeed, our entire radio systems seem to cope OK from being taken from a warm house into the cold without any problems caused by possible condensation. The chaps who run R/C boats have radios which live in a fairly damp environment, but they don't appear to be unduly affected by it. But give it a good range check. B.C.

The choice of glues depends on what is being stuck together, but I usually have supply of 30 Minute epoxy, Aliphatic Resin, Evo-Stick contact adhesive.  Plus, cyano from the Pound Shop.... (sometimes up to ten bottles of 10 grams for 99p).  For gap-filling, I either mix some sawdust with the Aliphatic and rub it it nto the gap, or fill the gap with sawdust and then flood it with cyano. B.C.

Yeah, one or two...!! But there is no exact recipe for stick movements to obtain a desired result with an aeroplane as there are too many variables, like: wind speed and direction and entry speeds to manoeuvres, plus rpm at entry, varying stick throws throughout manoeuvres, etc., etc.. It is a science all of its own.... but huge fun experimenting and exploring what an aeroplane can (or can't) do. B.C.

The Waterfall: This is where the model fully stalled and rotates (pivots) 360 in outside loops in pitch axes, with wings level, with hardly any forward motion or altitude alteration. It looks like it is doing forward rolls. The first requirement is a suitable 3D model that can do it. Next, it needs to be properly powered, and a power to weight ratio of 2:1 is fairly normal… that’s twice as much thrust as the weight of the model. The throttle response has to be 100%. Typically, the model will have a light wing loading and a rearward CG location, and the elevator control deflection can be over 70 degrees. Digital servos are an advantage here for their superior holding power and to prevent blow back from a powerful prop-wash. The flying skills required start at being able to prop hang, as this is where the manoeuvre begins and keeps coming back through with each “forward roll” rotation of the waterfall. To keep the model in the same piece of sky needs careful use of the throttle and elevator as the model pivots round its own axes. And then you need to get clever on the rudder and ailerons to keep the wings level and to counteract the engine torque every time the throttle is pumped. A good model should be able to “flip” almost in its own length. Good luck with the practice. B.C.

The Phoenix Club welcomes junior flyers. Their flying site is near St. Albans, close to J22 of the M25. http://www.pmfc.org.uk/ B.C.