Artto Ilmanen

Hi Jon, Do you have any new plans on the reduction gearbox ? Is this something you might want to offer in the future or are tons of higher priorities to do first? thanks

Hi Jon, Strange, isn't it? There is a massive thread where I got that info https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-warbirds-warplanes-200/7644110-complete-yellow-aircraft-spitfire-thread-24.html So my idea using a reduction gear in conjunction with 240V does not seem a good one? Nothing to be gained?

Thanks Jon, It must definitely not be anemic in vertical performance - hence my question. Maybe I need to weigh the model to get an idea in terms of how much power is needed. I came across another thread in RCU were people reported huge variation in weight from 22 lbs to 30+lbs(?!). So let's hope this one is a light one. Most say the model requires ton of lead on the nose: if so what about the reduction gear idea in conjunction with 240V ? If weight on the nose is not an issue could a reduction gear with 240V help with the performance? Bigger prop and good thrust yet enabling the engine operate at power peak at 9000+rpm? If this could work I could be interested in investing on the reduction gear box.. or, I could of course sell the 240V and buy a 300V instead.

Thanks Jon, I actually posted a question on suitable engine for this model at Laser Technical questions forum - as I didn't want to hijack(?) this thread. I tried to compare pictures of this (yellow aircraft) to real Spitfire MKXIV: not being an expert they look much the same but what's your opinion ? What is your opinion, how true scale is this model? p.s. I read your thread "modifying the top Flite Spitfire I accidentally bought on ebay. I'm sorry to hear your loss. My sincere condolences to you and your family..I went through the same few years ago so I know how it feels.

Jon, A friend of mine is selling his yellow aircraft Spit MKIV 1/5 scale I believe you fitted yours with a Laser 300v? I wonder if a 240V could be up to the task for this model? a 240V could be completely concealed inside the cowling. And as I happen to have a Laser 240V sitting on a shelve.. And maybe a gearbox? as a benchmark there is a guy flying one with a Saito FG 36: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0K2Z1si9GAo Or does this model just require minimum a 300v to perform scale like aerobatics?

Hi Jon, Have you yet flown this model? Curious to know as a friend of mine offered one for me at a reasonable price so I’m thinking..

thanks Jon, All clear, I’ll go for Savöx digital on all surfaces plus the throttle, then.

Paul, Thanks - I happen to have these in my GP Super Chipmunk. However, Futaba S3010 seem to be more expensive than similarily performing Savöx (SC-0253MG) and Futaba is analog with nylon gears..?

Thanks gor everybody for your advise @Jon: here is the thing: my local hobby shop sells the SC-0253MG at the same price (26,8€) as the 352. The 351 is just few € cheaper so I might as well go for the best out of these, what ever it then is? So quality wise - is the metal gear (SC-0253) the best in long term ? Or is the 352 best out of these, for some reason? another thing: would it be advisable to use a quality analog servo (such as Futaba S3001) for throttle due to engine vibration pulses? Or am I just fine with any of aforementioned Savöx for throttle servo, as well?

Gents, I have been thinking of Savöx SC-0253MG as they seem to be campaign priced at local hobby shop. Alternatively Savöx SC-0352 (this is a composite gear servo - I wonder if it stands the Laser 150 4-stroke vibrations?) Anyways, as I have never used Savöx servos: any first hand experience in terms on how well they center? And are they similar to other quality standard servo makes (Futaba, Hitec, etc.) in terms of slack development and long term reliability? Any other reasonable priced alternatives I could have a look at? I do happen to have unused Hitec HS-5645MG /D645 servos sitting on the shelve..although they may be overkill for the purpose? thanks

ok. Sorry to hear of your mishap! 😥 I’m building an ESM Focke Wulf and have been guessworking wether to use Laser 150 or 240V. I decided to go for the 150 as it’s about 450 grams or 1 lbs lighter than the 240V. Also, the 240V is probaly overkill for the Focke in terms of power. However, It would have been interesting to hear how your Bearcat flies with a 240V. A 3 blade prop might help with excessive power and lopk a tad more scale, too. By the way, both models, Focke and Bearcat, are about the same size, hence my interest in your experience with the Laser 240v Hope you will soon finish your other Laser powered models and can again focus on the Bearcat!

Another great model, Ron! Have you yet maidened it?

Ron, How did it sort out with the engine? Great model, by the way! 🙂

@Jon, I happen to have 2 Laser 150s in my Hangar, One is mounted on the nose of my GP Super Chipmunk and is from -08 or -09 if my memory serves me. Then there is another one that I inherited from a fellow modeler who no more flies anything but large models: it has ratchet on main needle? I suppose this is an older one? (This is the one I'm planning for the ESM Focke Wulf) Are they much different from each other? Do you still have spares for these? thanks

thanks, Jon!

This is what I think, too! Btw - maybe not the right thread but I could not find any thread on ESM retracts: I have never had a model with pneumatic retracts. Anyways from what I have heard the ESM pneumatic retracts require some attention to make them work right? Jon / gents, could you possibly point me to right thread or give hints in terms of how to operate ESM retracts with success? a fellow modeler had bad luck with them but maybe he just did not know what he was doing. thanks

All clear! Thanks, Jon!

Thanks- I believe if I mount the engine on its side the tank height will be about correct "top of the tank - middle of the carb" without any hacking when the model is flying level. However, as the tank is in the centerline (left / right) of the fuse and the carb (when engine on its side) is on the right side of the centerline: is this an issue when flying the model on its side, either left or right? Therefore, if possible should one always attempt mounting a single Laser either inverted or upright, if possible? Any rule of thumb? Or am I just thinking too much? 🤔🤗

Thanks Jon, The FT-200 sounds interesting. I will test the 150 and go from there, though. I believe if I mount the rx batteries (2 x 2000 mah NiMh) inside the cowling I should be good without much of lead. We'll see. The cowling inside diameter is 215mm so the engine will be completely concealed. I could mount the engine inverted but then the tank height becomes an issue due to the wing preventing installing the tank at correct height. So most likely mounting the engine horizontally is the way to go. At least with some hacking I can then mount the tank at correct height, at least when flying level.

Thanks Chris, What you say makes sense. I think I could mount the engine horizontally so the tank height should not be a problem? While I can't find it right now I think I once came accross someone having flown the model with a Saito 150. He said the modle flew well with that engine. I wonder how a Laser (newer model with round head) compares to Saito 150 powewise? Of course with low -5-10% nitro.

Well, According to another thread the model requires quite a bit of weight on the nose..:(

@Jon, gents, What might be the recommended Laser for ESM Focke Wulf: Specification: Length :1449 mm(57") Wing Span :1800 mm(70.9") Wing Area :56.1 sq. dm 6.04 sq. ft Wing Loading :103.4 g/sq. dm 33.7 oz/sq. ft Flying Weight :5.8 kg(12.8 lbs) Radio :6ch&8 servos Engine : 108 2-cycle 120 4-cycle I was planning to mount a 240V but it is obviously too much.. ? I have been thinking of a Laser 150 or 155 ? (happen to have a Laser 150 sitting on a shelve) Or would a 180 single or some of the multi cylinder engines be a more suitable choice? No prop hanging intended 🙂 but I hope to find a good compromise between decent scale lake vertical performance & wing loading. thanks, Artto fockewulf_fw_190.pdf

Thanks Jon this is all clear. It seems I'd better to remove the head and cylinder barrel to make it right - as you write to check the pinion drive bearing, too. If my memory serves me, I do not need to change any gaskets upon reinstalling the cylinder barrel and head? Is this correct?

Thanks Jon! I take Laser engines seriously - that's why I asked about the tank installation 🤗 bearing change: I do not have a bench press so I either can try heating the front housing in oven (like at 200° C for some time ?) or maybe I can find an engine workshop to help with installing the new ones. Anyways, -so I pull the drive flange out carefully by using normal puller? - when reinstalling the drive flange and taper collet: shall I check the gap between the front housing and drive flange? (is there any specs for this to measure) -when demounting the front housing: does the engine need to be at TDC? (or does it matter at all) Is there any hint or a recommended practice to check the pinion drive bearing condition with minimal dismantling?

Gents, Some remarks on "top of the tank - middle of the carb" rule; The instructions that came with my 300v (2013) say "..The tank should be as near the engine as possible and on the centreline of the carburettor." Not being a native speaker I misunderstood this means "middle of the tank - middle of the carb" 😔 See picture. Hence, the tanks are now mounted in accordance with "middle of the tank - middle of the carb". I can't lower them further, no space physically available as the fuselage has a foam core. I could try remounting the engine upright but then the space available enables the tanks to be mounted: "top of the tank is 1 inch lower than middle of the carb" Anyways, i do not have any particular issues and it seems neither of the setup alternatives is optimal. Maybe i should just stick with the current setup? Or is there anything I could gain if I mounted the engine upright? I'm happy with the engine but of course I want to follow the manufacturer instructions to get the most out of my engine in all circumstances. Hence the question. thanks, Artto