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Foxfan

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  1. Foxfan
    You're welcome, Flyboy. I've settled on Rustoleum spray enamel, which other foam fans on youtube have used with success. It can be had from Boyes and B&Q or online. Cheers, Martin
  2. Foxfan
    Flyboy, I removed the paper where they said to do so, otherwise it stayed on. Simon, it was while back that I had my Depron from SLEC so it's taken a while to sell what little they had. I think a tail mounted pusher is the way to go. Mark, I could be interested in your Vulcan ideas. Martin
  3. Foxfan
    Hi Flyboy, Foamboard has thin paper either side of the foam, whereas Depron has a slight grainy surface to the foam with no paper. I have made a Flite test Pietenpol from one of their kits and a Flite Test Spitfire from their free plans and built them as they describe in the build videos which involves folding the Foamboard over to form the leading edges, which it does happily with care, but when I tried to roll just 2mm Depron over the Spitfire fuselage formers it wrinkled and creased, requiring filler. Perhaps if I'd taped it first it would have helped. I need to do some experimentation especially if I make a Vulcan with that all important wing. Martin
  4. Foxfan
    Thanks, gents, but the first one is a bit unclear as to construction and the second is too big. I'm thinking I could use the free plan that was in one of the mags recently for the wing construction and just improve the section of the fuselage to something more accurate. OR...I suppose I should be able to design my own using known "good-uns" as inspiration. More research needed I think. As to Depron, I got mine from SLEC, who are a pleasant toodle away, with an excellent burger bar on the corner. Failing that Amazon do a pack of 10 foamboards for about £15, which I have used to make the FT Spitfire. I have plenty left. Martin
  5. Foxfan
    Hi all, My dear wife has bought me a brass name plaque to be affixed to the underside of XH558's wing as a valentine's present and that has galvanised my thoughts about building a flying one, but I'd like it to be an EDF version, rather than a pusher and something around 3'-6" to 4' span. The Depron ones seem to be very successful. What I need to know is are there any plans available for such a model, preferably with a scale like fuselage section rather than a square one. I do like a reasonably accurate look to the model. Thanks, Martin
  6. Foxfan
    Mark, yes I saw that and I think it's a fine idea especially for our field which is grass and tricycles under a large diameter of wheels seem to struggle, so I was thinking of a tail dragger. My one has no undercarriage at all. Cheers, Martin
  7. Foxfan
    Mark, many thanks. That was quick! You can see that the tail feathers that came with it are not the originals, but I'm sure I can do something with them. They are at least in proportion. Back of the fuzz appears a little spindly too, but strong enough. Whoever had it before the chap who I got it from seemed to try making an aluminium radil style cowl (without success), so I shall rework the nose to have F1 style cheeks. Thanks again. Martin
  8. Foxfan

    Foxfan posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  9. Foxfan
    Hello all, a very good friend has just given me this model for when I get a bit more competent at the stick twiddling lark if the damned weather ever improves and we can actually GET to our field without mudsliding into the deep ditch next to it. It's a bit of a mystery. Shoulder wing, not a kit as it has hand marked lines, etc. on many of its bits. The fuselage bracing looks a bit Forth bridge. Not even sure if the fin/elevator set are from this 'plane as the long threaded studs below the fin are way longer than necessary, but a perfect fit through the tailplane. It has a peg and screw canopy section and the canopy is an excellent fit, suggesting it came with plans or it really was a kit, this has not been chewed around to fit. Yet much of it appears to be a bit make-it-up-as-you-go. The wings are a servo in each half, fitted with tubes to slide on large diameter aluminium tube fitted through the fuselage. The wings are symetrical section and parallel with full width ailerons. Span is 5 ft-6" when assembled. There is a suggestion that it should have a radial style cowl, but I shall finish it with a "cheeks" style flat 4 nose. It appears to be designed for an IC engine. The wings both bear a clear, printed sticker with Angel in black, suggesting a proprietary source, unless the stickers are off a different model. The is no undercarriage.   Thanks, Martin Edited By Foxfan on 31/01/2020 16:27:29 Edited By Foxfan on 31/01/2020 16:27:42
  10. Foxfan
    Wish it was at our field. Weather's lovely, but access track is a quagmire and can't be used. Too far to walk for me! Martin
  11. Foxfan
    I think I would use ball races as the flatter wheel and simply make new upper anvils (wheels) on my lathe and mount them on smaller ball races. I must give it some thought. Martin
  12. Foxfan
    That's the kind of thing I have. Just a slightly bigger base. Useless for models except it's excellent for removing digs and dents in older sheets of material! A rather OTT use for such a machine, but a miniature would be good, or are you saying that IS a miniature, being Chronos and all that? Martin
  13. Foxfan
    My full sized one was a fair bit dearer than that, but my dear bride considered it a splendid present and so it was, but part way through building my Austin 7 Special I lost all my storage and had to get rid of it all. The wheel is all that remains along with a large box of hand coachbuilding hammers, dollies, etc. I occasionally use them on my son's 1951 Triumph Renown, but they are largely unused. I suppose with a miniature wheel should come a miniature stump for starting the process. Hmmm, getting more complicated! Martin
  14. Foxfan
    One problem with making a miniature English wheel is deciding what range of anvils and base wheels to have in order to be of any real use. I had considered for my model cars just scaling a full size wheel as the curves would all be in scale to the model panels. I really think it might be a suitable project to consider making. M
  15. Foxfan
    I think you would have to make a small English wheel, Danny. I have often thought about doing one based on a cast iron G cramp, but these days have little need for it. And even less for the lovely hardly used full sized one I have! I havce used K&S ally to make a complete Morgan 3 wheeler body in 1/32nd scale and have just made a model of John Bolster's Bloody Mary hillclimb Special in the same material, including the "radiator surround". Once again beaten over a steamed pear pattern, so it will definitely go round tight shapes, without annealing. Martin
  16. Foxfan
    I use the thin ally sheet from K&S metal centre for making cowls and blisters. It is a most malleable, yet crisp sheet and always gives me an excellent result. I make a pattern (hammer form) in steamed pear, then hammer it with a piece of lignum vitae held in the palm. The flange is then turned up with smooth faced pliers. Trim with files. Dummy rivets punched in with a model railway style riveting machine. Flush rivets made with a tool for doing plastic model kits. Martin
  17. Foxfan

    JB Weld

    Foxfan replied to cymaz's topic in Hints and Tips

    The only thing it won't stick is polythene, like everything else. If your fuselage is styrene or more likely ABS, give it a good scratch up for a key and you'll be fine. If it can stick the magnesium sump of a Maserati 4.5Litre V8 in a Cooper Racing car it can mend a toy aeroplane! Martin
  18. Foxfan

    JB Weld

    Foxfan replied to cymaz's topic in Hints and Tips

    Indeed, a coloured second half would help on some epoxies. JBWeld off the 'net is probably, like most things, much cheaper. I paid over £4 for a tube of Evo-Stik from a shop (the only one in a large town) because I had to have some to finish a job, but my wife then got me 5 packs for the equivalent of £2-50 a tube off ebay. That is why shops are dying. I know the online shops have no overheads, but £4 for a tube is stupid. If it was £3 I would stick with the shop, but £4? No, too much extra. Give it a little heat. I put some on a model car last night, put it under the lamp today and it's hard as rock now. brass on plastic. M
  19. Foxfan

    JB Weld

    Foxfan replied to cymaz's topic in Hints and Tips

    Like epoxies generally it will react well to a gentle heat. A desk lamp with a proper bulb, not one of those silly spaghetti things. 30 watts in an Anglepoise will do nicely. Works a treat on Milliput too. Milliput won't go fully hard without some heat. Martin
  20. Foxfan

    JB Weld

    Foxfan replied to cymaz's topic in Hints and Tips

    Just make sure you mix the Hell out of it and when you think you're done, mix it some more! Like all epoxies in fact, but that's the only safety measure for getting a great result. The beauty of one black one white resin is that mixing means a nice even grey is your best guide. Best of luck. Martin
  21. Foxfan

    JB Weld

    Foxfan replied to cymaz's topic in Hints and Tips

    Milliput is not an adhesive and the slightly different newer formula is even less adhesive (except on your hands). Believe me I make whole model cars from it. I'm on my 7th pack this year. I know Milli. JBWeld, however, is massively strong and very workable. I know racing car restorers who use it where no other repair has done the job. Engine blocks and even cylinder heads repaired with it . ON RACING CARS!!! If you can't heat the joint enough for solder, then JBWeld is the answer. I was using it just this evening to glue brass to plastic where there was no room for even a small screw. BTW, solder won't corrode. It's uncleaned flux that corrodes. My Dad was a proper craftsman plumber and would solder zinc and lead flat roofs, using a half pint blowlamp, a stick of tinman's solder and a tallow pad, but was always very careful to clean the joint thoroughly. Martin
  22. Foxfan
    We seem to be lucky here. Our field's track is closed, but the field itself for them as wants a walk is fine. Today was chilly but sunny all day as is tomorrow forecast to be and a few more days too. The benefits of living in the East, driest part of Britain. Just nowhere to slope! We've had some overnight rain, but I've been outside spraying models daytime for several days M
  23. Foxfan
    Erfolg, that seems like a lot of faff. My batteries are all in the indoors workshop which is heated as much as the other rooms. I was more wondering about so called storage voltages, etc. Martin
  24. Foxfan
    Haha, I have enough trouble getting my aircraft and boxes in the car, much less a golf trolley! We need the local ME club to provide us with a raised electric railway from the lane to the flying field. AGM Tuesday, I'll suggest it! Martin
  25. Foxfan
    Being noo, what does one do about batteries? I have 2 x700mAh Lipos and 2200 3s and a brand new set of Eneloops for the Rx. Not to mention dry cells in one Spektrum and a LiFe battery in the other. No idea what to do. I'd fly, but can't make the long walk down the muddy track carrying aircraft, TX case and flight box! Too far, iffy leg. M
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