YakMad

Or the motor shaft could be spinning on the bearings, look for heating marks on the shaft or hold the motor can and see if its possible to turn the prop by hand as kc suggested. I had a few Eflite motors do this due to poor quality bearings, I solved it by applying Loctite Stud and Bearing lock between the shaft and bearing, you wiould need to take the motor apart to do this.

Try a higher percentage nitro fuel, I use 20% in all my smaller Saito's and no Castor oil as it causes sticky valves in Saito's, you don't say what prop you are using but I found my 82 is happiest on a 14x6 prop as I found it ran rough on a smaller prop (13x8). Don't bother with the Saito plug as its too cold unless you run 30% nitro, the OS 'F' is the right plug for it. I know this site has been mentioned before but its a good source for Saito engine info. **LINK**

I put one of these together a few week ago, I am using the Turnigy 3D-Hv2 fbl controller. I have had about 10 flights on it now and it flys very well, its stable and smooth although I found that the undercarrige is made of a brittle type plastic as mine cracked after the first landing, I have repalced it with an Align one. I also swapped the tail control from leading edge control to trailing edge control as there is a thread on Helifreak which recommended this change to the Align 450 Pro (basically the same heli) to ensure that the tail has more authority. I test hovered mine first before I swapped the links connecting the tail slider to the blade grips around and the tail was all over the place but now its solid with only 45% gain. Sorry I can't post the link to the Helifreak thread but its blocked in work.

Zippy Compact 2200mah 25c fits perfect in mine

Tony, I have one of the first gen Blade 350, I had not suffered any of the problems discussed on the RCG thread until I moved the GPS unit to the right rear arm as per Horizon's bulletin and now I feel its not as locked in as it was and takes far longer to get a GPS lock. It would be interesting to hear how you get on with yours and how long it takes to get a GPS lock, I would have normally got a lock within 15 to 20 seconds, I am thinking of moving the GPS back over the battery as there has been some discussion that the battery was providing better sheilding for the GPS unit. I have also been waitting for Horizon to release their own gimbal before going down that route as the images from my Gopro have been fine for my purposes so far.

I had 2 OS 70's with 13X8 props and they were very happy, I always felt that the OS four stokes have more torque but not were not happy being under propped and sound harsh on smaller props unlike the my Saito 62 and 72's which are happy to rev alot harder.

This sounds very much like one or more linkages from or to the swashplate are not the same length or the servos are not centered correctly. Edited By YakMad on 27/06/2014 08:42:26

I agree sintered clunks are the way to go, not only do they filter the fuel but they also stop air bubbles being sucked into the fuel line because of the very large surface area of the filter. OS make sintered clunks for their glow engines if you have any worries about corrision, I have never suffered corrision problems with any of the sintered clunks I have and I use alot of 20% nitro fuel. I also have a filter inside my fuel container which I use to fill the tank in the plane, I would never use an in-line fuel filter, I spent too many sessions trying to sort out blocked and leaking in-line filters.

Forget about books from Amazon, download the ebooks from RCHelicopterfun.com **LINK** there is also loads of useful info on his site, I found his site very useful when I got into flying electric heli's after been away from heli's for many years. Edited By YakMad on 23/06/2014 09:21:37

Tony, The engine will need more running before it will idle properly, I never adjust the idle mixture on a new ringed engine until I have plenty of fuel thru it. I am sorry to say but its likely the tank is too high and fuel is siphoning into the carb, adjusting the idle needle will only help so far and you probably not be able to get a very slow idle if you do this as it will now be in effect be lean at idle. A trick I use and an easy way to check if the tank is the problem is to rubber band/strap a tank to the side of the plane at or slightly below carb height and run the engine from this tank. I run higher percentage nitro (20%) in all my four-stroke up to 91 size,I know on this forum some people don't see the point of this but you can run richer idle setting which four-strokes tend to like and the glow plug stays hotter thru the four-stroke cycle which give me a smoother more powerful engine.

Scorpion do a battery backup it simply plugs into a spare rx socket, if you get a Regulator or battery failure it kicks in. **LINK**

That's interesting I have one of those Hitec Gold battery checkers it was reliable when new but started reading low after about a year, I now use a Hyperion battery checker which is the same as the Fusion SmartGuard, seems to be fairly accurate.

I've had 1 Saito 180 and 2 150's in my time, the 180 always ran rough, it seems to be a trait of the larger Saito's, my 180 suffered from a sticky valve and required careful sanding/polishing of the valve stem to fix, it did run less rough afterwards. After you adjust the idle mixture don't forget to re-adjust the high end, on Saito's the idle mixture adjustment effects about 70 to 80% of the throttle range not just the idle.

I having been using a mixture of 50% ATF and 50% Koltz two-stroke oil for the past few years with no ill effects in any of my 2 or 4 strokes from Saito, OS or ASP in fact they start better after been laid up for a while then they did on "After-run oil" and I use alot more of my mixture in each engine then I ever did with After-run oil (its much cheaper) and no deposits left inside the engines. I found two-stroke oil on its own was just too thick to flow thru the engine which is why I thin it with ATF, there are many threads on other forums discussing the use of ATF and air tool oil as after run on their own or mixed with other forms of oil.

I meant to say in my previous post that I acquired an Axion Laser Arrow from a club member who won it at our annual Club Fun Fly but he is not interested in fast delta type models. It flies well and is fairly fast but was noisy, the motor is in the nose and sounded more like a four-stroke than an electric motor. The prop was out of balance, but even after balancing the prop it was still noisy. I flew it a couple of more times until I noticed that the motor was loose, I figured the bolts holding the motor had become loose as I had this problem when I got it first, anyway when I got home the bolts were tight but the plastic plate which the motor is bolted to and which itself is held onto the tube motor mount with four self tappers had split in two. Not having easy access to a replacement I made one out of piece of 1/8 inch ply, when I ran the motor to test my fix, the droning four-stoke noise was gone. Tthe plastic engine mounting must have been flexing and causing the strange resonance noise.

I have used good quality inrunners as well as outrunners with no perceived noise difference, I have a Multiplex Acromaster which has an outrunner in it (Great Planes Rimfire), it was very noisy, I could not figure out why as I had balanced the prop, it has a foam spinner and the motor mount design spreads the load over a wide area of the fuz, it actually sounded like flutter but that was ruled out as well. I played around with the esc motor timing to no avail. I decided to change the esc (Hyperion) with a different make (Dymond) as a last resort and suddenly all was almost silent, I have since used the original esc in other models and I have not encountered the same effect.

Tim, Thanks for the very informatiive and timely guide on parallel charging, I just bought one of the HK boards but then had second thoughts using it as I was uncertain about the correct way to use the board and set-up the charger.

Bob, That's not good news as I use alot of Hitec 645MG on 6 volts, its my servo of choice in larger models, I hope Hitec have not messed up and ruined an excellent servo.

Tim,   I had a similar problem years ago with two Hitec HS-55 servos, one was faulty and even though it worked fine on its own when it was connected to another HS-55 via a Y lead they would both jitter.   Roy. Edited By YakMad on 25/03/2014 08:39:52

I had one of these many years ago, I never suffered tip stalling, I had an ASP 52 four stroke in it and I enjoyed flying it until I eventually sold it on to a club mate. I remember being able to do low and fairly slow circuits with it with no hint of tip stalling, alot of tip stalling can be caused by too much elevator travel, I had all mine set as per the manual as I had only recently return to the hobby after a 10 year break. I also remember I had to put a slightly larger nose wheel on it as it was slow to un-stick from our grass strip. Edited By YakMad on 19/03/2014 09:32:36

I did the same as you John and modded an old first gen Xbox 360 PSU early last year which I have to say was fairly easy to do and its been working great ever since, so much so that I have been keeping a look-out for a second one. Not sure about the 16.5 amps, the label on mine says 14 amp although I have never tested it. Just a note to anyone who want to do the same, make sure that its the first generation Xbox 360 PSU as I believe the later models output less amps.

Any model designed for a 70 size four-stroke or 46 two-stroke, my Saito 65 produces the same power as my Saito 72's and OS 70, I have it in an old Kyosho Majestic aerobatic model which performs very well on the 65, I know its not scale but it will give you some idea of the size of model which suits this engine.

The Lipo/Li-on TX batteries don't seem to be effected too much by the cold weather, I've been using one in my DX8 for 18 months without any problem and flew my MPX Extra 300 using the DX9 last weekend in cold slighty damp conditions with no issues. Edited By YakMad on 21/11/2013 13:18:40

There's no problem mixing Digital and analogue servos, I have been doing it for years.

Its easy to switch the gyro off so long as the gain can be controlled from the transmitter, the gyro plugs into the rudder channel on the receiver and the gain connection plugs into channel 5, if your radio has a gyro function in aircraft mode you can set the percentage gain in there (0% off 10-12% on) and assign a switch to switch gains. If you don't have the gyro function you could use the flap knob to turn the gain up or down but you would be wise to set the amount of up gain on the ground by moving the tail of the plane and adjusting the knob until the desired opposite rubber move is achieved and then just use the knob to lower or turn off the gain in flight if needed. You don't need a high speed servo for an aircraft as fish tailing is a much slower movement than a heli's tail expierences so the servo does not need to react as fast and as i said previously the gyro will sense and react faster than you can anyway.