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Derek Bradley

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Everything posted by Derek Bradley

  1. Tim, If you do a search for magnets on eBay you will be spoilt for choice. You can get any type and any size. Some that I have used in the past are 'rare earth magnets' which are extremely powerful. Derek.
  2. Just a reminder for information of anyone yet to order the laser cut pack - over a week ago I informed Slec of the errors in the pack and I believe that they are all now corrected. The problems were caused by errors in the drawings which have not been corrected. Derek..
  3. Many thanks, Lucas. Having a long think about my next step. Derek.
  4. Thanks, guys. All the parts were as per the drawings and supplied in the laser cut kit and, so far as I can recall, I was following Lindsey's build log, so I could not see that I was going wrong in the build sequence but I have not seen any other comments about the difficulty of drawing the fuselage sides together. It would be interesting to hear from builders who have got past this stage had any problems and whether others approaching it will, in view of my problems, do anything differently. Derek.
  5. Disaster has struck (not unexpectedly). Pulled the tail end of the fuselage together, clamped it up and glued it with white wood glue. Removed clamps after about 24 hours and it remained solid for about 48 hours when the two sides decided to part company (close-up in second photo). I felt that when drawing the two sides together there was a terrific amount of strain on them so, as said, it was not unexpected. You will see that the balsa has given way and not the glue line. Unless anyone can suggest anything better I can only think that I will have to glue and clamp it up again and add some triangular section reinforcement to the insides plus the tail support. I think I should have done what, I believe, Lucas suggested and cut some lightening holes in the fuselage sides and it would have made them more pliable at the tail end but too late now. Derek.
  6. Thanks, Lucas. I think that probably the best way would be to use the motor mount with one or two washers under the top and port side arms and then use the bolts to pull the blind nuts partially into place. Then check that the offset is correct and that the prop driver is exiting in the right place, if not, adjust the washers and keep checking until you have got it right and then tighten up the bolts completely to pull the blind nuts into their final position. It may be advantageous to have some 3mm balsa sheet behind the firewall for the blind nut prongs to sink into. One advantage of using this method to fit the motor mount as opposed to the X configuration is that you only have to do the adjustments to the top and one side arm to obtain the offside whereas with the X you have to fiddle with three arms - two upper and one lower. Derek. PS. I calculated my motor mount offset the same as yours (+/- the odd fraction of a mm) so I must be doing something right.
  7. Many thanks, John. The only bit of, possibly, useless information I can give at the moment is regarding motor mounting. I intend fitting the firewall square (no offset) in the fuselage, then mark F2 exactly in the centre line of the prop driver and then calculate and mark off up and to port the amount of offset to bring the motor correctly in line with the centre of the aperture in the cowl. If the motor is mounted as shown instead of an X mount you can put washers under the top and port legs to easily get and/or adjust the 2 degrees down and starboard offset. I hope this makes sense - it's easier to do than explain. Derek.
  8. Thanks, John but, for some reason and no matter what I try, I am unable to copy any photos onto the blog. I can't find any advice on the website and wonder if anyone can help me please - never had this problem in the past. Derek.
  9. Thanks, Chris, but I have to admit that I am only a 'casual' builder and a 'very casual' flyer and too far past the age of retirement to even think about the next build. I started my modelling with diesel powered control line in the 1950's but never really found the time to seriously progress to RC until more recently, but have never lost my interest in RC aircraft (and boats) and I really build now entirely for my own enjoyment. Derek. PS. Apologies if I have taken up space unnecessarily on this thread.
  10. I did not find any problem with the liteply doubler in my kit but I have told Slec about the plan errors resulting in their incorrect cutting of the 3mm balsa sheet (doubler) on the outside of the fuselage side and parts F2H/F3H and F4A and they have now corrected them. There seem to be so many errors cropping up that I am losing heart with the build but, I suppose, I cannot give up now - just hope that everything has been corrected. Derek.
  11. If you have a look at my entry (5 up) you will see that I have contacted Slec and they have now corrected the laser cutting error. Derek.
  12. Thanks for your kind words Lucas. What I probably should have said was that it was for my own enjoyment as opposed to any competitive spirit. I am now awaiting the replacement parts from Slec (can't recommend them highly enough) but I will add my two pennorth from time to time. Derek.
  13. If anyone intends buying the laser cut kit, please read my notes added to the build blog - the fuselage sides and doublers had been cut wrong due to incorrect markings on the plan. I have informed Slec who do the cutting and send out the packs and they will now correct these errors (which, as said, were not their fault). As me how I know. I am not entering the MB as I am building only for my own enjoyment and it is anyone's guess whether I will ever complete it (I am in my 80s). Derek.
  14. I have now contacted Slec and they were not aware of the discrepancies in the drawings and they will now amend the laser cuttings so, from now on, the fuselage sides in the kit will be accurate. And - ten out of ten for Slec - they will send me the recut parts. It was never my intention to 'poke my nose' into this blog, as I am only building Skywriter for my own enjoyment, but I thought it only fair that Slec be informed so that customers would get the correct parts for something which is not inexpensive Also, I ordered the kit from MyHobbyStore without being aware of the discount code and, to date, MHS have refused to refund the 10%. Derek.
  15. Many thanks for your help, Linds. You will have seen my other note about the wrongly lasered fuselage sides. Derek.
  16. A quick PS. Slec do end grain balsa sheets specifically for building boards but, if you want a particularly large one, they are quite expensive. However, knowing Slec, I am sure that they are ideal. Derek.
  17. I bought some Sundeala board a year or so ago from a local model railway shop. When I got it I found that it was warped. I never did manage to get the warp out and I found that it was not that easy to get pins into. I think it is mainly used for model railway layouts. I think the next thing to try will be plasterboard (or dry lining board, which may be the same). Derek.
  18. A note for anyone buying the laser cut pack and further to Lindsey's note on page 8, 5th entry down. The fuselage sides have been cut to the wrong line at the rear and are too short so will have to be built up. I would think that many builders have already bought the kit but I think that whoever is doing the laser cutting (Slec ?) should be informed and asked to correct any future kits. I would say that this is NOT the fault of the laser cutting firm but originates with an error in the drawing as Lindsey has already said. Derek..
  19. Many thanks, Linds but, I am still at a loss as to what is correct. I think that the photo you are referring to is the fourth one down on the first page of this build blog. I have tried increasing it in size but am still unable to make out what is required and the drawings show that the doubler is on the outside of the main fuselage former and the 6mm square longerons are on the inside. At the moment, I am still awaiting my purchased copies of the plans and only have the free ones to work from but they show (according to the arrows showing where the pieces go) that the top AND bottom of both the main fuselage former AND the doubler are in line and this is how both pieces in the kit have been cut. Sorry to be a pain in the proverbial but I do not want to make a mistake at this stage which would be difficult to correct. Derek.
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