David Tayler

I have tried two different SD cards but the problem remains the same.Thanks for your input David

I am running open Tx 2.2.3 no heli multimodule and the Amber sounds 2.2.3 on a Taranis X9D.(not plus) The initial greeting and switch warning is fine but the Amber sounds and telemetry warnings sound like a "Darlek" and are very slow. I have reloaded the SD card and the firmware to no avail. I have also checked inside the Transmitter for any lose wires. Does anyone have any ideas what to do next? Thanks David

Has anyone used Vector board foam? It looks interesting.Tough like epp and fairly light ,but heavier than Depron. It is avauilable from several model shops. I am thinking of buying some but am slightly concerned about its weight.

I would agree with Robert and suggest starting with an Arduino. PICs are fine but you need a programmer, and to make life easier, a compiler to translate from a language like Basic or C to machine code. The learning curve is much steeper than for an Arduino which is very well supported both by the official site and loads of projects on the web. Even if the mini pro board is slightly bigger than a PIC chip it contains so much more such as Ato D converters and voltage regulators.The uno is a favourite starting board but the Nano is smaller and will do much the same-it is also slightly cheaper. What you can do with Arduinos is maily limited by your imagination. They are fabulous in my opinion.

I very much agree with Phil. There is a place for electronics in rcn&E . Thre have been lots of threads and useful articles about crashes caused bt Rx battery failure. I have a arduino based checker which will measure the internal resistance of battery packs and their capacity. I have had some very interesting results which show how dificult it is to measure how discharged ,or otherwise a receiver battery is. These micro computer boards are rediculously cheap and there are lots of people who can help beginners to master them.

I also have some home builds in the 30 g range.Made of 2mm thick depron and a few bits of balsa.I have two Focker VII 's one awaiting a maiden but the other flies very well at a near scale speed.I have about 5 chipmunks with variable flight characteristics. I really enjoy building this type of model as when the inevitable mid air collision occurs they are so easily and cheaply rebuilt. The price of indoor ARTF models seems to have doubled in the last year or so and the "Brick" receivers certainly have.

Thank you Denis,I bought the coil and magnets from Micron rc. The receiver is much smaller than "bricks". It weighs 0.8 g. I believe Ares achieve proportional control with their magnetic actuators,or at least that is what the members of our club who fly them tell me.

I am trying to build a very light indoor model(around 6 grams) with a magnetic actuator for rudder control. These seem to consist of a coil of very fine wire with a tiny strong magnet pivoting inside. I have bought a coil and magnets but there are no instructions. How far in should the magnet be for optimun control? I presume these are driven by a H bridge and use pulse width modulation to provide proportional control,but an not certain. Ares seem to use them on their micro models such as their tiger moth. Any information would be welcome.Thanks

I have had a Leaf for 3and a half years now, It is fantastic to drive,all the torque at low speeds ,incredibly quiet and very economical.We use economy severn and our solar pannels. The servicing costs are low as is the insurance if one shops around.Amazingly some companies don't do electric cars! We do though have a deisel for long runs. Try one and you may be hooked.

The Ar 6400NBL is for 2s, unlike the AR6400 so it will need a connector suitable for 2s. My 2S batteries have red JST connectors which would do fine.However small battery connectors seem to be a minefield with plenty of room for errors. Best of luck,

One other problem if buying from Hobby Kings global wharehouse is that you may be stung for customs duties.I had to pay about £15 when I bought my Taranis a few years ago and was caught again when buying a QX7 from Gearbest just before Christmas. T9 do give excellent service, but do apparently cost a little more.

Toolstation sell a thick CA adhesive for 99 pence for 20ml. It sets fairly slowly .It works well on balsa and may give you the time you want for repositioning components. It is also foam safe (depron) if used with kicker.

I an setting up a quadcopter for a friend's 60th birthday. He lives in Malawi. If I buy several lipos to power it wil he be able to take them back with him when he returns to Malawi? How could we get them there? Thanks David

In the small ads of Octobers RCM&E there is a Lancaster for Sale in Nots. Unfortunately the phone number is unobtainable.I am interested in buying it. Does anyone have any information? If so please pm me. Thanks David

A Lancaster, 30,000 rivits flying in close formation,It does look most impressive with all those little panels and rivits.Another masterpiece.

Tony, I usually follow your blogs but am just a "looker", however I must ask -How did you get that fantastic effect of showing all the rivited small pannels on the nose. I was so impressed with the picture above. I am trying to build a depron Lancaster but the progress is glacial. Thanks David

Dear Mike, Many many Thanks. My Taranis dates from November2014. It would not bind wirth receiver numbers 16 or 20 but bound with no problems to receiver no2. I think I can now finish setting up the receiver,It certainly shows promise but I need to install it then check carefully that everything moves in the correct sense. I would never have guessed that I needed a different receiver number so would never have won. Fantastic help,much appreciated.David

This is slightly off topic but having configured my S8rR I cannot get it to bind to my taranis . I am running non EU firmware and have a non EU receiver. I have tried re flashing FCC firmware just in case using the STK device but I still cannot get it to bind. Has anyone any ideas what I should do next? Thanks David.

I have just tried s6r calibration software ,version 1.3 on my computer,running windows 10 and it worked fine with the 3 tick boxes visible.

Thank you Chris,Just what I wanted.Sorry for starting a new thread but I missed the one you referred me to. Many Thanks David

Martin Philips review is very helpful for someone just starting with one of these receivers,sadly Fig 2 in my paper copy is incomplete.Can anyone advise how the programming for ch10 should be completed ,or is there a complete fig 2 available . I have just bought a SR8 receiver. .Thanks David

I would be happy to try and make you one on my lathe if you could pm me the dimensions or a drawing. .David

Dear Phil, Thank you very much for a helpful drawing,it supplements my photographs well. David

We visited Shuttleworth on Sunday and were rather taken by the Anec2 that lives there. I thought it would be a nice model for indoors if made out of Depron. I have been unable to find any plans or drawings of the plane.Does anyone have any clever ideas? Thanks David

Thank you all for your advice.I made two"filters" by wrapping the servo wires round ferrite rings,about six turns, and the jitter and odd servo behaviour has disappeared. It would seen that the cause was interference from the CD unit being picked up on the wing wiring,aggrevated ,maybe, by poor noise immunity on the Hitec servo.Derek is reviewing the rating of the servos in the light of the comments posted on this thread. Thanks.David