robert chamberlain

thanks Pete

I saw a very interesting engine sold by RJL Industries in the US. The model number isHP 21 VT and the box had "Hirtenberger" on it.I believe this was once made in east europe but now in California. What is interesting is that although a four stroke engine, it does not use conventional valves.-Rather, there is a rotating barrel which alternately exposes an intake and then an exhaust hole.Because of this , it can spin up a bit higher RPM than usual. Running mine on a test stand , I found it to be extremely quiet. A bit different in the looks department too. Have not flown it yet, but plan to bolt it onto an "Old Timer" free flight converted to R/C.---Bob C in Kansas ,USA

I'm going to put a SAITO 72 on my new Hanger 9 Cub 40. The book says the fuel burn is about .8oz/min at full throttle. Does anyone have any numbers on fuel burn at different throttle settings,--say 1/2 or 1/3 ? That's assuming that it does putt aroung the sky OK at these power settings.Reason being I have to decide how big a tank to put in.I really like being able to put in long flights.Bob C in Kansas, USA

I'm going to put a SAITO 72 on my new Hanger 9 Cub 40. The book says the fuel burn is about .8oz/min at full throttle. Does anyone have any numbers on fuel burn at different throttle settings,--say 1/2 or 1/3 ? That's assuming that it does putt aroung the sky OK at these power settings.Reason being I have to decide how big a tank to put in.I really like being able to put in long flights.Bob C in Kansas, USA

I wonder if the weight of the extension would cause a vibration problem and somehow cause wear on the threads of the needle valve? Bob In Kansas

I wonder if the weight of the extension would cause a vibration problem and somehow cause wear on the threads of the needle valve? Bob In Kansas

I've always loved aviation. Went into Air Traffic Control in the Air Force , then flew commercially for years and ended up with FlightSafety working with Beech 350's ( so I could be home more often) A lot of airline flying is not all that stable , --lots of "ups and downs" if you will excuse the pun, but I loved every minute of it. Some folks lucked out and made the high senority and did OK though, but still a lot of away from home. Now I get my fix with R/C and the occasional sailplane! Bob C

I'm not quite sure what is meant by a "crutch". I've no doubt seen one used in building a fuselage, but have probably called it something else. Bob C

I too have tried Rit dye. Apparently, there is more than one type of canopy material. On my Super Sportster, I soaked the canopy for about an hour in Rit and warm water and it came out great. Just do not boil it. On the other hand, I tried to tint the canopy on a new sailplane and, no matter how long I soaked it,nothing happened! No color change whatsoever. ----------Bob C

count me in too,--would love to read the Sunderland book----- Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 04/03/2013 06:31:45

Hello, I can understand how a normal airplane stays stable in pitch,--no problem. Nose goes down, airspeed increases, and the downward force of the tail pushes tail down and nose up.Several A/c advertise a design with a "lifting tail" as part of the specs. (Telemaster). OK,-- how does it stay stable in pitch? Does the center of lift move forward in a dive? Any thoughts out there?--Bob C in Kansas,USA

Hello all,---I am hopeing to start a build on some WW 1 plane soon and am trying to get as much information as possible. So far, the name Flair and Balso USA have come up. I am in the process of checking on shipping the Flair as I am in the U.S.---My question is there a big difference between the two? Is the rigging functional? Time to assemble at the field? Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated,---thanks in advance,---Bob Chamberlain in Kansas,[email protected]

Hello, I'm converting an old sailplane to elec power for launch purposes. As I understand it so far,as the Lipo runs down the ESC shuts down the motor leaving some energy in the batt to run the receiver and servos.So far, so good. My question so far is just how much time is left to run the rec/servos? In a powered airplane one would have time to make a landing before running out of power. The sailplane, up at altitude working some great thermals,does not want to have to come down right now.Of course, there probably is very little elec demand on the batt at this point just cruising around.For this type of operation, would it not be safer to incorporate a separate batt? Even four cell AA pack would last a long time.Later,--Bob C in Kansas

Hello, --any idea how much current the box draws at both low and high throttle? 2200Mah battery good enough for an afternoon? Bob C in Kansas

Hello all,--one could have two different batteries with two different voltages and two different Mah rating and still get close to the same Watts.Volts times Mah equals watts.If the calculation shows each to have a similiar watt rating, could one assume that the altitude gained would be similiar? I'm speaking here about a glider launched with an elec motor.The lower voltage one would climb slower, of course,but with more Mah would run longer and eventually get to the same altitude as the higher voltage one. There are a lot of variables here I know and I do not expect a perfect correlation.After weighting two different batteries with the same watts but different voltages, It was interesting to see how close they were in weight.--It's two o'clock in the morning and I can't get to sleep!--Bob C in Kansas,USA

hello,--I was thinking of building an SE5a and so far I have seen ads for the Flair and Balsa USA. Has anyone done a comparision betwee the two as to which is the better kit? Are there others anyone can suggest? Thanks, Bob C in Kansas,USA

I have not tried it yet, but I just received a kit from Tower hobbies here in the USA.It is a small box affair that attaches to the bottom of a regular starter and contains a 12V 1.2 amp jellcell battery.This gets me away from the cord connecting it to the field box. Of course, it will not crank away as long as the 7 amp one in my box ,but it should be OK for the afternoon.It is alot lighter too. Time will tell. --Bob C in Kansas, USA

Hello all,--any thoughts on which brand of kit for a WW1 bi plane? I am searching Google but could use some feed back on quality/price. Balsa USA looks nice-----Bob C in Kansas

I am converting an old glider to electric power. I know I can use a protractor to measure the off set(right and down)but I was wondering what the math would be for duing it another way. With the prop horizontal, one could measure the distance from the right hand tip to the wing and do the same for the left hand side. Can't this distance be converted to degrees? Doing it the hard way is so much more fun! You think 3 degrees wiil be enough?----Bob in Kansas

I use several. Mostly Sermos/Power pole as I find them easy to assemble-- 4 mm on ESC to motor,-Deans here and there for higher amp stuff but I find them too hard to take apart. I understand there is a new product out that attaches to the Deans to make it easier to take apart but I have not seen it here in the U.S.---Bob C in Kansas