Rex Keene

I'd agree very much with CrosstownTee's post, as it matches my own experience, with the proviso that I made the terrible mistake of contacting and joining a local club. Luckily I'm a thick skinned and bloody minded 50 year old who's had a life time of brushing off the small minded jobsworth's that seem to infest the club scene, usualy at commitee level. If I'd still have been under thirty I'd have smacked 'em, if I'd been under 15 I'd just have given up. Buy something cheap enough to crash and learn on your own. Only join a club when you've enough self confidence to tell the little hitlers to be nice. Edited By Rex Keene on 30/12/2012 00:52:46 Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 30/12/2012 06:58:36

I've had both, and can recommend either. Which does your shop of choice carry the most spares for? Which can you find cheaper. That's about it, they're both very good.

Beatifully obsessive

Very nice. What did you use/where did you get the aerofoil profile from? I've just made my own foam cutter and I'm eager to have a go at making my own foamie, but I'm a bit lost on what to use as an aerofoil profile.

If you get a Spit V kit you could måske a matching pair: **LINK**

I'd thought about putting a 7.4v LiPo in my Dx6, but was worried that it'd be an over voltage. Can you confirm the unit can stand the larger battery?

Thanks for the replies. I'd very much like to see the rotor disk calculation and some pictures of rotor heads and bearings. I'd thought of mounting the rotors on pylons to exclude the compexity of wings.

WOT next?

Or what ever they're called.. I've been given a pair of high wing trainers in a semi finished state, and I've been thinking of making one of them a twin rotor autogyro. I've never tinkered with an auto gyro before, so I've some questions: 1) Any good sources for what I imagine must be a thrust bearing for the rotor hub? 2) Is it true that the blades for a twin don't need aerodynamic profile, that's to say, they're flat plates and not aerofoils? 3) Is there a simple way to calculate "swept area (rotor disk?) needed per kilo? 4) Is there a simole way to decide on the number of blades per rotor? Thanks...

I don't get this. I just don't see how any one could be fooled that that sounds anything like a 27 litre supercharged V12. It's like hearing a E type with a BDA escort engine. It's a lovely sounding engine, don't get me wrong, but if the focus is on scale sound then you're missing a good couple of cylinders and a gear driven whistle.

There's been no problems, the reason given was that without a CE mark (although it clearly has one on the back) it would be "illegal" to use in Denmark, but I actualy think the underlying reason is good old insurance paranoia. The reason it became an issue at all is simply because the set was unfamiliar; i.e. not Futaba or Spektrum. The conversation went something like: "What's that?!? That's not legal, it looks chineese!" "It's from Hobbyking, and it's got a CE mark, look, you can see it here.." "That's not CE, that's China export, and it can't be used on this field." End of conversation. To be fair, any beginer turning up with unfamiliar kit is always going to lose a "yes it is!" "no it isn't" argument, and probably rightly too. So I', very gratefull for the links and info in this thread. Afterall, the clun chairman, while being a bit behind the times, is only doing his job. I wonder if he'll ever get that Spitfire finished, or wether he's having too much fun with his foamie 3D flier to get the time

3.9v seems about right: **LINK**

I covered my Dynam glider with very thin glass finre and poly c. Gives a lovely finish, considerable strength and throughly inoculated it against hanger rash for a cost of 28 Grammies . worth the extra time.

Thanks guys. I'm English living in Denmark. The club chairman is convinced that "CE" on the back means "China Export"! Apparently there's been fuss in the Danish forum over fake radio's. They're not a bad bunch at all, but " little Danes" are worse than " little Englanders", much worse because nothing was ever really made in Denmark to begin with.... . Nonetheless, our flying site is roughly 5 miles from CPH airport, right next to Danmarks Radio studio's, I'm a beginner with no knowledge of electronics or radio, we often have over 5 planes in the air at once and there's a helicopter/ control line field next to us, so I'm happy to be guided and corrected on matters of radio safety. Now if only I could get them over their snobbishness about foam ARTF'S. It's funny how they all claim to have a 100" Spitfire under construction at home, and turn up every week with foam fliers....

I've been using this Tx : **LINK** and I've been very happy with it. However, I was grounded today by my club, as they don't believe it's legal for use in EU states, despite the fact it has a CE mark on the back. Any body know how I can confirm its status?

**LINK**

For the Turnigy, this is what you need: **LINK** I've the same radio, and this set up works very well for me.

I hope you're growing your own wood, BBC! Anything else is a start on the slippery slope to foamieness!

I'd like to see some articles by experienced scale builders on how to improve ARTF models. Take a "Standard", such as a park zone Spit or an Eflight Hurricane, and show how a trad builder would approach the task of making it a worthy scale competition competitor. ARTF's are here to stay. What would be nice is advice on how to make one's standard ARTF piper cub foamie into one's own unique piper cub. I can see the future growth market not in kit's, but in fittings. One can see the same in the car market: Fewer and fewer make their own cars, albiet from scratch or from a kit, but after market bolt on goodie shops continue to thrive. The same would be valid for a HobbyKing Beech Bonanza..

Where's the "like" button?

I'd be nice if the the tests were available as download modules for the better know Sims as a practise guide. Real flight has a great instrictor mode, it'd be very helpful to be able to sit the test virtually.

Hi all, I fancy trying to hot wire cut my first wing. To keep it simple I'm thinking of a straight, parallel chord wing, similar to a Wot4 or Stick wing. Would any one know a good online resource for the airfoil profiles, and which profile would be suitable? I occasionally see posts or articlres where the writer says stuff like " I ysed a NACA 666 at the root and a Clark Y at the tps" or similar, and frankly it's double Dutch to me. Im just looking for a template I can glue to a slab of foam and drag a hot wire around.

Lækkert I'm always being told to stay away from the tree line at my club in København, I might give this ago. Any tips for a beginner?

I snapped the tail off my foam glider, I can repair it no problem, but what should the tail AoA be relative to the wing? its a T tail type, " Sonic 185". electric powered foam glider? What symptoms should I be looking for to check for a misconfiguration? The elevator/stab is held n by a single bolt to a captive nut in the top of the rudder fin. The stab pulled the captive nut out of the fin, taking the top surface of the fin with it in a crash. Remarkably, the stab it's self was fine. Ive refabricated the top of the fin with balsa and fibre glassed it with Poly- C, but I've a feeling I've built in too much incidence, that's to say, the stab has a negative AoA relative to the wing. I'm having quite a job to trim it to fly nicely stable in the glide power off, it seems to be "porpoising", could an incorrect AoA affect this? I'd assumed it wouldn't be that important, inasmuch I thought I'd just be able to trim any misalignment out with the elevator trim, albeit at the cost of higher drag. Such appears not to be the case.

Looks great.