Dai Fledermaus
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Do I cover the Tail Fin before or after assembly?
Dai Fledermaus replied to Dai Fledermaus's topic in Beginners
Thanks everyone I knew I could rely on your help. -
Can I ask those of you who have built a Mini Tyro, Super 60 or something similar where a built up tail fin is glued to the to the balsa sheeting on the top of the fuselage with side supports. Did you find it easier to cover the fuz and fin before assembly or after? It looks to me that covering before gluing the two together would be easier as long as the covering material is cut away where necessary to ensure a good bond, but I would be interested if someone says otherwise. I'm to get as good a finish as I can.
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There's an item in todays Live suppliment from the Mail on Sunday about this aircraft. interesting up to a point, but obviously written by someone who knows nothing about aircraft. What irritated me a little is it finishes with a column about model aircraft ie " and here a five planes you can fly" It then goes on to list the Parkzone Spitfire, E Flight Habu 32 DF, Hanger 9 Funtana 125g, Parkzone UMP-40 Warhawk and the Hobbyzone Firebird Stratos. Of the latter it says " charge the battery and go. it's idiotproof too. Oh if only it were that easy.
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Just to prove my point earlier, on todays JV programe after an interesting item about the Algerian hostage situation they wheel on Angela Epstine a journalist who had a rant about school closures because of the snow. It was just an excercise in teacher bashing which appealed to the Daily Mail type listeners who just love to phone in. Here in the Gwent Gulag we've had a foot of snow, there's nothing moving on the roads. Drivers have listened to the emergency services and not made any non essential journeys and stayed at home, and she questions why schools have closed almost accusing teachers of taking the day off to spend in the pub. Calm down now Cols it doesn't do your blood pressure any good.
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I tend to listen to Radio 4 extra, because I enjoy the repeats of the Goon Show and Round the Horn, although I do like J.V up to a point. They do, I admit, tend to get people on who rattle my cage like that obnoxious twit Simon Ward who gets so agitated by any oppinion which contradicts his own. One day he'll have a heart attack live on air. It's done, I think to wind up the listeners and get them to phone in. Pete B as for less or fewer, I think it depends on the context of the sentence. My old English teacher always said that the yardstick is less cake fewer pieces. Edited By Colin Ashman on 18/01/2013 11:54:57
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Thanks for your thoughts fellers. I have a steerable tail wheel, which I had thought of using on my Tyro Major although the plan shows a tail skid. I guess I could make it work, but I think I'll just keep it simple and modify it to use as a fixed tail wheel.
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I've noticed that on many sports designs and trainers where a steerable tail wheel is not fitted, that a tail skid is used instead of a fixed tail wheel. Is there any particular reason for this?
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Thanks fellers, your help is very much appreciated
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As some of you will know from my previous threads, I'm building a Tyro Major after many years away from the hobby, so I'm starting from scratch in terms of equipment and knowledge. I need to buy a few servos to finish off building the fuselarge, but I'm a bit confused by the type and range available. What is the basic difference between analogue and digital types for example and how does that relate , if at all, with the R/C reciever used. Should I be aware of any compatibility issues? Finally, prices seem to vary from £6 for say a hitec HS 311 to well over a £100 for others. I know everyone will have their favorites, but can you recomend a suitable servo which isn't going to break the bank? The Tyro Major has plenty of room in the cabin, so the size of the servo is not realy an issue.
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You might change your mind if a drone from a national newspaper or local authority came snooping over your property or even looking in throught your windows. If the local burglar bought one from Amazon ( about £ 250 I understand ) to case your garden shed or garrage for anything worth stealing would you say that was O.K.?
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I mentioned on another thread recently that the first engine I ever bought was a brand new ED Bee round about 1960. One was sold recently in average condition, but in the origional box with instructions etc on EBAY for just over £100.00. This promped me to look up the history of E.D. Electronic Delelopments and found a very interesting article by Adrian Duncan which was published by Model Engine News. It makes interesting reading if like me you were one of the many thousands of aero moddelers who bought one of their engines in the 1950's and 60's Link The company was set up in 1946 in Kingston on Thames and one of the benefits of this was the close proximity of scrap yards which had a ready supply of war redundant Rolls Royce Merlin engine pistons which were perfect for making aluminium castings for model aircraft engines.
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Can't blame the seller for this one, but just look at the price that this ED BEE is at the moment and the auction is not over until tomorrow. The BEE was the first engine I ever bought, it was about 1960 and I was still in school. Can't remember the price now, but it was bought with save up pocket money, so it would not have been very expensive. Wish I had kept now together with the box etc if this is the price you can get for one. LINK
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Thanks everyone. I'm constantly amazed how generous everyone on this forum is with their help and advice to newbies and old duffers like me returning to the hobby. Cols Edited By Colin Ashman on 01/12/2012 12:10:59 Edited By Colin Ashman on 01/12/2012 12:11:42
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Just bought an Enya SS30 for it. I'm trying to keep it light, but my inexperience will probably mean that it will end up heavier than it should be, which is why I went for an engine at the top of the recomended range, i.e. .19 to .30. Sorry to repeat my question, did use a closed loop system on the elevators as well? If so, did that present any problems with the tailplane positioned as low down as it is Cols
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Thanks Robin, from your description I understand how you routed the wires for the rudder closed loop system. Presumably then you positioned the servo for the rudder down the center line of the fuselage, where then did you place the elevator servo and did you use a closed loop system for that as well? Cols
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I'm trying to figure out a neat and tidy arrangement for the rudder control for the Tyro Major I'm building. The rudder does not extend below the stern post and I'm trying not to make it look too awkward where the control linkage exits the rear of the fuz. I realy would appreciate it if anyone who has built a Tyro, Mini Tyro, or even Super 60 - they all have the same fin/rudder arrangement, could tell me how you did it. Edited By Colin Ashman on 30/11/2012 12:54:26
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Yep. Still available Link
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I have to agree with Mr |Moderator, you’re only gluing Balsa to Balsa or Balsa to Ply chaps, you don’t need anything other than PVA unless you’re in a hurry. I spent years making bespoke hardwood furniture, and in all that time I only ever used two types of adhesive, PVA and occasionally Cascamite and never had a problem. Cascamite has been around since Noah took up boat building and in my humble opinion is the best woodworking glue ever. If you do need a water proof glue which is incredibly strong, with good gap filling properties, and one which will give you more working time than PVA then try Cascamite, but for the most part like Epoxy, it’s overkill Edited By Colin Ashman on 29/11/2012 09:47:07 Edited By Colin Ashman on 29/11/2012 09:48:01
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I I thought some newbie’s to balsa bashing and born again types like me might be interested in my world patented anti banana jig wot I knocked up, sorry made this morning. Using the old centre line method it’s an old IKEA shelf I’ve been saving for sometime and some wooden blocks faced with balsa which has been stuck on with double sided tape. The blocks themselves are also stuck in place with double sided tape – it didn’t need anything fancier in the way fixings than that. Just position the fuz over the centre line, position the blocks either side and stick down. You might just be able to see that the nose is raised so that the tail can sit flat, square as well as centered on the line. Yes, it’s not pretty but it worked a treat I don't think SLEC will loose any sleep.
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How do you cut Spruce sheet
Dai Fledermaus replied to Erfolg's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Sorry kc I have to disagree with you. It is simply not the case that a band saw will not cut straight enough for spars. A two wheel band saw with a good blade which is properly set up will cut spars straight and true all day or until you run out of wood. You just need to use a fence. Yes you need to clean up the cut edge with a plane -a block plane is better because of the low angle of the blade, but you would need to do that with any saw cut be it hand or powered. I've used a band saw, a very ordinary one at that, to cut my own verneers so they are very accurate. If any one is thinking of buying one just aviod the three wheel types they are often not very good I agree Erfolg can cut his spars with a fine tooth saw in the manner described, but if I were him I would have bought them from SLEC as some one else suggested. After years of practice I'm quite good at cutting accurately on the waste side of a pencil line with a hand saw, but even I would get fed up after cutting one or two spars that way and that feeling of frustration would realy put off a beginner I would have thought. -
How do you cut Spruce sheet
Dai Fledermaus replied to Erfolg's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
I know we’ve wandered away from the original question, but Dylan is absolutely right; a table saw, if you are not careful, will take your fingers off before you know you’ve lost them. A home made one would be bad news. Can I add that as someone who retired from my own cabinet making business a year or so ago and still makes Shaker style rocking chairs as a hobby, I don’t understand everyone’s fascination with a table saw. I’ve said it before on this forum, set up properly with a decent blade, the band saw is much more versatile and user friendly machine for the average model maker. It would be perfect for cutting spars from spruce or plywood with accuracy. You can’t cut inside or outside curves on a table saw and I personally would not use one to notch formers or bulkheads to take spars or engine bearers for example. One slip and you’re mopping up the blood. Also if you are as attached to your fingers as I am, then always, always use push sticks with a table saw and whenever you can with a band saw. Cols -
Well damm me, I checked EBAY this morning and didn’t spot that. Still, I’m not disappointed, Herself has been out most of the day, I’ve spent the time balsa bashing in the garage, and on top of that I’ve bought myself a bright shiny new motor. What else could a grown man ask for? All I need now is for Wales to beat Samoa tonight to make it a perfect day. Cols
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Christmas has come early. Just thought I'd let you know that after some high powered negotation with SWMBO, I ordered an SS30 from Steve Webb today on the strength of your recomendation. Couldn't wait for a S/H one to come up on EBAY. Thanks again for your help. Cols
