James B

Ahh, that makes sense. I'd never thought of the differing forces on the rudder with a DLG lauch as compared to a HLG launch. The spinning motion of a DLG launch could have a twisting force on the rudder and i suppose if its extened below the fuse this would balance it out somewhat. Sorry about the triple post by the way, don't know how that happed

I think we maybe talking at cross-purposes. I meant rudders that extend past the bottom of the fuselage, like Hyperflights Elf or probably a better example, the Slopeside E385 DLG. If you look at the manual for this model, it comes in two versions, the DLG with the aforementioned Rudder design or the HLG version, the difference being it has a tow-hook and a rudder that stops at the fuselage. The only difference between the models is the launch method.

I think we maybe talking at cross-purposes. I meant rudders that extend past the bottom of the fuselage, like Hyperflights Elf> **LINK** or probably a better example, the Slopeside E385 DLG. If you look at the manual for this model, it comes in two versions, the DLG with the aforementioned Rudder design or the HLG version, the difference being it has a tow-hook and a rudder that stops at the fuselage. The only difference between the models is the launch method. **LINK**

I think we maybe talking at cross-purposes. I meant rudders that extend past the bottom of the fuselage, like Hyperflights Elf> **LINK** or probably a better example, the Slopeside E385 DLG. If you look at the manual for this model, it comes in two versions, the DLG with the aforementioned Rudder design or the HLG version, the difference being it has a tow-hook and a rudder that stops at the fuselage. The only difference between the models is the launch method. **LINK**

A good explanation, but why would this design be unique to DLG's?

Simple question really. Why is it DLG's have rudders that hang down way below the fuselage. It seems (to me) unique to these types of craft. It has always puzzled me.

I haven't had much fixed wing flying this season because of the weather and work and what-not. I've had a few co-axial helicopters and always enjoyed messing with them, so I bought myself a Esky belt cp v2 (I know! Not a beginners chopper) to mess about with in the garden when i get the odd 15 minutes here and there. I must say, its fantastic, completely different (to me anyway) to fixed wing flying. One thing I've really gotten into is the set up process, levelling the swashplate, setting the pitch of the blades, balancing them etc, it seems a lot more mechanically involved to fixed wing. I've watched loads of instructional videos and read a lot of info on flying, maintenance etc and I'm under no impression its easy or I'm going to be flying circuits straight away. I'm taking it very slowly and just getting used to the controls and characteristics of it. What I'd advise CrazeUK is have a look at a few instructional sites and get a good supplier for spares. **LINK** **LINK** Some good instructional videos on here> **LINK** Good online shop> last order I got took less than 24hrs to arrive! **LINK**

I still get the odd momentary panic mid flight that I haven't got my transmitter aerial up and I've been using 2.4 for quite a while now

I think I was having a senior moment. I thought - if the transmitter was set to 0%, then the gyro itself was set to 100% (when turning both on) and then I increased the gyro on the transmitter to 100%, it would effectively be 200% gain, if you know what I mean. Clearly, as you can tell, I'm a rotary wing ​newbie

Just came across this thread. So if you turn the gain to 100% on the giro, would you set the gain on the transmitter to 100% before you turn the it on?

Its never a waste of time to build your own.

Thanks for all the quick responses, I think I'll give Erfolg's method a go. Cheers

CoG's no problem, I just put some more velcro inside the fuselage and position to battery until its right. I tend to fly mine ever so slightly nose heavy, seems handle the wind better that way.

I agree Baron Baz, but I need about 3/4 down elevator to keep it level, a little up thrust would be good, but at the moment it would just loop in about a 15 foot radius

Ahhh, makes sense now. So the keyring is attached to the top of the 'chute, the guidelines are then attached to the line, so essentially the chute is part of the system. I thought it was just hooked on near the end of the line. I'll have to change the parachute though, I had intended to use a Estes plastic rocket one I had lying round, don't think that will be up to the job if its taking the tension! Also, the reason I'm using a bungee is because a Slingsby Swallow wouldn't look quite right with a prop on the front Thanks