jrman

As many have also said they use the "cheaper" clones and have had numerous problems. I'll stick with the genuine JR versions thanks.

I had a similar problem a while ago with a Z62. It would fire and run (idle) with the choke on but would not even cough with the choke off. It turned out to be the inline filler valve had some "foreign body" in it that prevented it opening fully when the filler was removed. I removed the valve and all was well with the world again. Of course if you don't have a filler valve this posting is of little use.

I have used both the "Carbon" and Glass fibre u/c's from Carbon Copy and found the white glass fibre versions are the better of the two. The "carbon" version appear to be a glass centre with a carbon outer layer and have delaminated with normal, i.e. not hard landings. Edited By jrman on 05/08/2014 11:23:38

No problems at all, that I have experienced, in buddying Mode 1 and Mode 2 together.

Reduces/removes any static electricity so that it doesn't attract dust.

Try Conrad Electronic . **LINK**

Are you switching on with a/c in the back of a car/van or similar or with the tx too close ( <1m) as this can sometimes prevent the Rx getting a "clear" signal from the Tx.

I don't think you'll be disappointed. I can get down to a tick over of about 1800 rpm on an OS 120pumped with a Xoar 18/6 prop.I don't know how I feel knowing I'm being looked at !!

I would recommend the Just Engines remote glow. I've got 4 of them and they do exactly what you want. Full on at idle then progressively pulse and reduce until they're off at about 1/3 -1/2 throttle. Switch the radio off and they are off as well, no separate switch required.

Better than white spirit try "lighter fluid" (naphtha).

If you don't know whether the fuselage is epoxy or polyester resin based, use EPOXY for the repair which will adhere to either, whereas polyester will only bond effectively to polyester.

In the "old days" silencer pressure was rarely used. Two comments re. you're photo : That silencer looks too small to do much effective silencing and you have the prop on the wrong way round.

Try Carbon Copy. They have a number of FG cowls not exactly the size you want but very close. The radial with 7 dummy cylinders is a possibility. **LINK**

Try sealing around the carb spigot where it fits into the crankcase with some PTFE tape. The O ring doesn't always get compressed enough to seal sufficiently. You could also put some sealer on the two screws which hold the carb in.

Soak it in ammonia (be extremely careful!) for about half an hour then it should bend like a piece of rubber. Hold it in place (tape, clamps, pins etc.) let the ammonia evaporate then glue it. Some household cleaning fluids contain ammonia or you can get it from a decent builders merchant or similar.

Just spoke to JE again and have now ordered one.(Something else for me to pick up at Wings 'N Wheels this weekend). I had misunderstood what they told me earlier! Thanks for prompting me.

Thanks. I spoke to them this morning and they told me they didn't do them any more!! I'll try them again.

Help. Anyone know where I can get a prop driver puller for an OS 200 FS?

If it is plasterboard the fixings will be the least of your problems. Plasterboard is not waterproof and the water will go through the tile grout and destroy the plasterboard and cause mould and possibly wet rot to the studding behind. If it is "Aqua panel" (waterproof cement board which is dark grey in colour) or similar you should use a heavy duty expanding plug as made by "Fischer" or similar. My advice is don't ask for advice in B&Q try somewhere more professional like a "proper" builders merchants. (Jewsons;Wickes)

Ailerons.

Fairy Power Spray.

Excellent service from Modelfixings again. Order placed at 3:45 yesterday, package sitting on my mat when I got back from flying today!

Try Mike Ridley at Model Radio Workshop. **LINK**

Try "Just Engines".

Yes that's the correct way. As long as it's not soft like jelly it sounds OK.