Steve Barton
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Everything posted by Steve Barton
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Hi guys, Futaba 9CAP problem . I have almost completed the Nijhuis Harvard and have set up AIL-DIFF with Ch 1 & 7 for ailerons and Ch 5 for undercarriage on switch E. I will also use Ch2 elevator, Ch3 throttle and Ch4 rudder. FLAPS: I'd like to use Ch6 and 8 or 9 for the flaps. (I'd prefer to use two channels because I put the two flap servos in mirror image but I could rotate one of them so they are facing the same direction and then I could use a Y cable on one channel). AND I would like to use the slider switch VR(E) or VR(D) to lower and raise the flaps - but I cant work that out - any help gratefully appreciated thanks, Steve Edited By Steve Barton on 28/11/2013 12:28:20
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thanks guys, I started a new model on the TX, with a clean slate (reset > execute) and all is fine..... what a relief
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John, just to be really sure "power cycle the Tx" means charge it up ?, thanks
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Ken, I was in Hong Kong and am now in Korea, so I have emailed my friend for help. And yes I downloaded a manual today which I'll review after printing some sections tomorrow. Frankly, I find the manual difficult to navigate, but 'all else fails, read the manual' will have to be invoked John, yes other models even Basic(acro) show the same response when I servo test. It is the same before or after Reset Execute. The only dfference from what you describe is that the movement of the bar on the servo test foreach channel, which for ch3 goes from -100% to +100% is with the progressive sliding of the throttle stick, not with a three way switch. I will study the SW/MODE option tomorrow with the manual to kill the airbrake-func. There must be some Tx setting that sweeps across the unit to give this result. I dont want to erase all my model settings ....but unfortunately that may be a last resort. thanks again to you both - if anything comes to mind please shoot it across ( well pass it across - missles are are a bit of a touchy subject here) regards, Steve
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Hi Ken, thanks for your advice. I have the model set at BASIC (ACRO) and there are no options or settings I can see for CROW. What else could I look for or am I looking in the wrong place???? Another question, when I go to SERVO, ch3 (throttle) is zero when centered, -100% at bottom position and +100% at top position. I assume this is my problem, what do you think ? thanks, Steve
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FUTABA 9CAP Super problem - reset ch3 to throttle from flap setting Hi All, I have been flying F3F and had a friend set channel 3 to sequentially bring down the flaps with the throttle stick (ch3). I have gone to parameters > reset > execute, which resets to factory for the one model but that did not help. So it looks like an overall Tx setting I cannot remember what was done to the settings which seems to be affecting all models, and now I cant change it back to fly BASIC ACRO. Does anyone have any clues to reset/change this setting ? thanks for your help, Steve
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Hi, I'd appreciate some help with building questions 1. I am about to glue rib #1 and was wondering if anyone can tell me the dihedral, for one wing (or both) 2. has anyone used the rear smaller U/C support block? thanks, Steve
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Hi Mike, thanks for the advice on the spars and webs I am collecting the wood and will give it try ! regards, Steve
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Hi Mike, I think I am getting closer to understanding my problem In the middle on the left of the plan, R1 shows the spar glued to the edge of the top sheet , not recessed into the rib and also in line with the cap strip but on the bottom of the plan in the wing drawing the spar looks like it is under the top sheet ? On page 69, the colourful drawing shows the spar recessed into the rib and under the top sheet. thanks for your help, regards, Steve
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Hi Mike, I really like the appearance and size of Taboo. It reminds of a plane called Dollar which had a very long life with a friend before he gave it to me ...... I am going over the plan of Taboo to fit it together in my mind and would appreciate your help/guidance 1. it looks like the ribs need to be recessed to accommodate the spars? 2. to get the right shape/profile of the webs between the spars did you use the plan measurements rib height less spar or just put them in place, measure and cut ? 3. can I cut the top and bottom sheets to the size on the plan or should I adjust for the curvature over the ribs and make the sheet a little bigger/wider ? ( I assume there should be a top spar shown on the plan between ribs 4 and 5 ) I would really appreciate to see more photos of the build you may have especially of the wing section many thanks, Steve
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its a long story but I no longer have the plans and would appreciate to know the COG from the leading edge for the Midget Mustang I am making mine with removable wing and canopy, and electric. All measurements indicate it is too front end heavy. Any one else with a heavy end - so to speak? many thanks
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Midget Mustang: I've gone the electric route and connected the nose plate to the firewall with four hardwood dowels. So far it has been rough sanded. I haven't got to building up and shaping the underside of the nose. I had a spare 64 mm spinner so I made the nose this size instead of the normal 68mm Another change I am contemplating is to have the wing removable by having a hardwood block in front of former 17 where I can have a blind nut. I'll have two blind nuts where the undercarriage/wing would have normally been glued. It will be easier to store and transport and also I don't have to put too much time in making a removable cockpit
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four hardwood dowels to support the electric motor
Steve Barton posted a gallery image in Member Albums
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Phil, this was the plane I learnt to fly with and is my all time favourite. It is stable inverted and lands like a feather. I was a bit rough with it so for the second wing I built I extended the balsa covered section and added a little glass across the middle. I ploughed a few fields with it and it usually came up laughing. The only trouble I faced was with brushed motors - the soldered wires at the motor kept breaking off from the vibration. If that ever happens shut the other motor down straight away as you won't be able to fly on one motor. Brushed motors did not have the solder breaking problem and that would be the only way to go. I used two Robbe BL 2827-34, which was a tight fit but okay after a bit of fiddling. It certainly had heaps of go. I also used a 3000 3S because a 2200 ran out of oomph too quickly. 10 NiMH cells 2200 were ok if I had nothing else to use, but a tad heavy and not so sparkling a flight Without undercarriage it takes off from the snow and landing is a hoot. With a firm push it will do the same off wet grass . Hope you have as much fun as I did with it.Edited By Stevefromoz on 04/08/2009 16:04:55
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