Paul Adams

I agree totally about joining a club not only will you get advice and help, but you can fly in a safe environment and flying alone gets pretty boring. One very important thing though is if you have reversed the throttle rebind the receiver to the transmitter with the throttle at its lowest setting (closed). This is a safety measure as if ever your model looses contact with your transmitter it will go to fail safe position, ie the position you bound it in. If you have bound the RX to the TX and then reversed the throttle this will be now at full trottle propelling the model towards the ground, building, tree or god forbid a person.

I think the down thrust needs adjusting Keep the post going as looking at getting one myself. Changing to two elevator servos I agree must be a a good idea. Anyone else flown one yet, and if so any videos

I had the same problem, the instructions show the joiner being flat on one side and not the other, but the joiner I had was near enough symmetrical. So I just glued it in place and everything aligned ok.

Hi Trebor, I was teaching a beginner at the weekend with the controls turned down so far it made recovery from a mistake very difficult, It was set up with 20 % expo in an attempt to soften the area around neutral, but the beginner was having problems with flying the model smoothly. He sounded very similar to you as he also played a lot on a play station and whilst the model tried to fly level and smooth, his thumbs never stopped upsetting the models flight. This resulted in very erratic flying. A possible solutions and one that I have used before, is to suggest using finger and thumbs, It breaks the habit of mussel memory used on play station, so may work. Alternatively just try and move the sticks very slowly and smoothly using your thumbs. It will take some practice to break the habit, but it can be done. Talk to your instructor about could the throws be reduced, but throws are always a compromise, Small throws required to prevent over correction by the beginner, larger throws required by the instructor to correct the model mistakes and stop the model from crashing.

I will second Steve's comment. Nothing in the south of England either. Looked at building a Provost last year, but decided against due to the distance to travel to an event (600 miles round trip). Will have a go stirring up the locals to see if I can get a few of us interested in holding an event in the south.

Can also try putting some brake cable or snake inner inside the tube before bending. Slightly over bend and then bend it back. The brake cable / snake inner can then be pulled out.

Thanks for the info. My reason foe asking is that I purchased a Receiver Life battery, but it does not come with a standard JR / Futaba receiver connector, so had to modify the leads. This battery does come with a standard connector, but is marked Transmitter? By the way I have fitted high voltage servo's to a model, Spectrum receivers work up to 9 volts, so wil not need a BEC. I have been using 5 cell NiMH batteries as was finding that 4 cell with high power digital servo's kept causing the receiver to brown out. But these wont charge with a standard radio charger, so have resorted to using my electric chargers to charge overnight. The Life batteries can be quick charged and keep their charge well.

Is there any reason I can not / should not use a Turnigy nano-tech 2000mAh 2S1P 20~40C LiFePo4 Transmitter battery as a receiver battery. **LINK** 6.6 volt, capable of supplying 40 amps constantly and supplied with a standard receiver battery pack plug.sounds ideal to me, so why is it specified as a Transmitter battery?

A friend from work was given an automatic hire car and he is used to driving a manual. All went well until he changed gear whilst moving, and inadvertently selected park. The transmission locked, causing the car to skid to a halt. No harm done you would think, but unfortunately the person driving the car behind him had no warning of what was happening (the brake lights don't light when you select park) and crashed into him. Thank god no one was hurt, but the person behind insurance must have got a bit of a hammering.

Or could be a Typhoon slope Soarer **LINK**

The only way I could get mine below the noise limit was to fit a canister exhaust. Makes a neat installation:-

Since the tax is not transferred, does that mean when you purchase a car from a private seller that:- You need to tax it before you can drive it on the road? Can you tax a car who is owed by someone else? If not how do you tax the car before you drive it home? Is your insurance valid for an un-taxed car?

Hi Ian There are a few clubs in our area and I belong to Firebirds Model Club. We have both Mode 1 and Mode 2 instructors ( I am one of the Mode 2 instructors). For further details see our Web site:- **LINK** Our flying site is in Curdridge and our main flyings times are Saturday 10:00 until 1400 hrs and Sunday 10:00 until 13:00. If you want to know more details message me or contact our membership :-secretary [email protected] Regards Paul

A question on method. You fasten the sheet to the frame, do you then close it onto the formers and use the heat gun to soften the sheet sufficiently to close the lid fully down, then switch on the vacuum and continue heating the sheet in areas that are not fully sucked down, or do you heat the whole sheet and when pliable enough lower the frame and switch on the vacuum in one operation?

The battery pack shows that it was a NiCad which were discontinued many years ago. I think that this may be be cause of your problems. Question: Did you set the fail safe before flying, the reason I ask is that I had a similar problem many years ago (admittedly with Futaba 35MHz) where the motor went to tick over after flying for a couple of minutes. I landed the model and tried to find out what was happening to the engine. In the pits it did the same thing, but I noticed the servo's were getting slow. So checked the pack voltage and it was well down. On reading the Futaba instructions later that night, I found that when the receiver battery voltage falls being a value, it sets the motor to its fail safe position (in my case tick over). So if you had not set the fail safe to tick over, its possible that it did the same with your model, at which time it flew until the battery finally failed completely. Just a thought. Its sad to see a model in such a state, and I don't think PVA will be much use Regards Paul